sodering dean's please help me out asap
09-12-2007, 09:14 AM
#1
sodering dean's please help me out asap
ok im haveing problem sodering.... i done this many time's... but this time the soder dont want to stick to the dean... i don't know what the problem.. i clean everthing.. the wire get's the soder on it .... but the dean when i get a little bit of soder on it .. it don't stick ... i even clean the sodering gun... please help...
09-12-2007, 09:51 AM
#3
Agreed!
09-12-2007, 10:03 AM
#5
Solder doesn't "stick"...it FLOWS when it has a suitable place to go (clean and hot enough). Deans are difficult to do nicely unless you have a decent iron and a way to hold them firmly. You'll have to practically cook them to get them hot enough.
Again: It's the temperature of the part that makes the solder flow...no heat, no flow.
Again: It's the temperature of the part that makes the solder flow...no heat, no flow.
09-12-2007, 10:08 AM
#7
Scratching the surface you're trying to solder to and using a flux gel will really help too. The part you're soldering needs some heat too, but Deans can be very easy to melt
09-12-2007, 10:38 AM
#9
In all my years as an electronics guru I swear (and I'm not kidding I've tried it all) I still like good old fashioned Radio Shack 60/40 thin. I have book and books and catalogues from over a dozen of my favorite suppliers, but when I need solder I run to RS. It's this one BTW and it flows, cools, and shines hella nice 
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
General rule of thumb is the thicker the conductor and the higher the surface area the more heat you will need. For your deans and 13 ga. noodle wire (for example) a minimum of 40 watts is recomended for your iron.
Lightly scuff the flat surface you will solder to (180 grit sand paper is suggested) and place the iron tip on the surface. Try and angle the tip so you get the maximum amount of tip surface area making contact with the flat surface of the deans. For instance if your tip comes to a point on a 45 degree taper, hold the iron 45 degrees against the deans mating surface. Make sure your iron has reached full temp, hold there for about 5-10 seconds, and place the solder against the area WHILE keeping the iron there. DO not place it on the tip itself. The idea is to get the area you are trying to solder to hot enough to melt the solder itself without touching the iron tip. One you have achieved this the solder will wick itself onto the part and leave you with a nice 'tinned' application.
Now tin (flow solder to) the wire itself. Be sure the solder is wicked up into the strands of the wire and not just on the surface. It make take a second or two to do this and the wire will get HOT so it is suggested you hold it with a glove, a vise, pliers, or you can just be like me and grit your manly teeth, bear it, and burn yourself so many times that you barely feel anything on your fingertips anymore (hint: don't be like me) Trim you finished work up to about 1/4" in length.
If you did this right, you will have two thoroughly tinned surfaces to mate. Place the tinned wire against the tinned surface of the deans plug. Place your iron atop the tinned wire. You have a sandwich going here, the deans surface on bottom, the wire in the middle and the iron on top! (kinky!)
Now we wait.. and wait, and wait.. the tip will start to melt the solder that was wicked up into the strands of the wire (don't press too hard here or you will flatten your wire). Once the heat has passed to the other side of the wire it will begin to melt the tinned surface of the deans. The end product will be a perfect flow of solder joining the surfaces. Pull your iron away and give it the time it needs to cool naturally! No blowing on it, or fanning it, etc.
Try and go through the motions a few times prior to actually doing it. Arrange a good and non-burning method to hold things while you solder them.
Look at devices like 'helping hands' that are relatively cheap and can be arranged to hold the wire, the part, or both while your hands are free.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
Aside from all that, I think your not properly tining your surfaces first. Follow my tips and you'll be soldering like a pro in no time. Any questions?
- Matt
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
General rule of thumb is the thicker the conductor and the higher the surface area the more heat you will need. For your deans and 13 ga. noodle wire (for example) a minimum of 40 watts is recomended for your iron.
Lightly scuff the flat surface you will solder to (180 grit sand paper is suggested) and place the iron tip on the surface. Try and angle the tip so you get the maximum amount of tip surface area making contact with the flat surface of the deans. For instance if your tip comes to a point on a 45 degree taper, hold the iron 45 degrees against the deans mating surface. Make sure your iron has reached full temp, hold there for about 5-10 seconds, and place the solder against the area WHILE keeping the iron there. DO not place it on the tip itself. The idea is to get the area you are trying to solder to hot enough to melt the solder itself without touching the iron tip. One you have achieved this the solder will wick itself onto the part and leave you with a nice 'tinned' application.
Now tin (flow solder to) the wire itself. Be sure the solder is wicked up into the strands of the wire and not just on the surface. It make take a second or two to do this and the wire will get HOT so it is suggested you hold it with a glove, a vise, pliers, or you can just be like me and grit your manly teeth, bear it, and burn yourself so many times that you barely feel anything on your fingertips anymore (hint: don't be like me) Trim you finished work up to about 1/4" in length.
If you did this right, you will have two thoroughly tinned surfaces to mate. Place the tinned wire against the tinned surface of the deans plug. Place your iron atop the tinned wire. You have a sandwich going here, the deans surface on bottom, the wire in the middle and the iron on top! (kinky!)
Now we wait.. and wait, and wait.. the tip will start to melt the solder that was wicked up into the strands of the wire (don't press too hard here or you will flatten your wire). Once the heat has passed to the other side of the wire it will begin to melt the tinned surface of the deans. The end product will be a perfect flow of solder joining the surfaces. Pull your iron away and give it the time it needs to cool naturally! No blowing on it, or fanning it, etc.
Try and go through the motions a few times prior to actually doing it. Arrange a good and non-burning method to hold things while you solder them.
Look at devices like 'helping hands' that are relatively cheap and can be arranged to hold the wire, the part, or both while your hands are free.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
Aside from all that, I think your not properly tining your surfaces first. Follow my tips and you'll be soldering like a pro in no time. Any questions?
- Matt
09-12-2007, 10:46 AM
#10
@TechWun - Very nice soldering 101 writeup, it's difficult to teach someone how to solder much less tell them over the internet. I'll have to give that Radio Shack stuff a try next time I run out
Yeah so does the Novak stuff I use. But it's been my experience solder flows into a surface coated in flux a lot easier than a bare one. I use this stuff called Rubyfluid, comes in a little round yellow tin and looks and feels exactly like cranberry sauce. Put some on the tip of an Allen driver to spread it around or dunk a bare wire end into it and the solder can't flow fast enough.
Yeah so does the Novak stuff I use. But it's been my experience solder flows into a surface coated in flux a lot easier than a bare one. I use this stuff called Rubyfluid, comes in a little round yellow tin and looks and feels exactly like cranberry sauce. Put some on the tip of an Allen driver to spread it around or dunk a bare wire end into it and the solder can't flow fast enough.
09-12-2007, 11:51 AM
#12
put the flux on it, and "tin" it.
let the tinning cool for about a minute... then try it, and dont use too much solder.
let the tinning cool for about a minute... then try it, and dont use too much solder.
09-13-2007, 05:20 AM
#13
thank's for all your help.. i ended up puting wire contor that i got from my local auto shop... lol then i broke a pice off from that then soder the wire on that... i still not sure why i could not soder on the dean... so that radio shack soder is good.. i never used that soder before....
10-02-2007, 05:31 PM
#14
as long as you got it to work... :P