ever see a 1/10th scale truggy??
#16
#17
Tech Elite
iTrader: (127)
Sign me up.......I'll take one......
http://www.rc-monster.com/tempforum/...read.php?t=984
There is a "top-down" view of the prototype attached in the above link(attached the picture here as well). We have offered a direct-fit motor mount for the stock chassis for a few months as well. There are quite a few conversions already done - several threads and pictures on our forums.
There is a "top-down" view of the prototype attached in the above link(attached the picture here as well). We have offered a direct-fit motor mount for the stock chassis for a few months as well. There are quite a few conversions already done - several threads and pictures on our forums.
#18
Does this mean I can't use the truck's standard body with Mike's extended chassis?
#19
Tech Elite
iTrader: (127)
Stock CRT .5 body. I woud think not. You could pick up a J-Concepts body. I'm sure a T4 or MF2 body would fit.
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/
#21
Tech Addict
#22
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Here is my Crt.5 - it's almost done. I am waiting for my antenna mount, and I still need to get a battery. I also need to drill some holes in the battery mount to lighten it up, put a little foam padding on it and put the velcro strap on it.
I have only raced 18th scale for the last couple years and don't have any batteries other than 2/3A size, so I borrowed a Tyco 7.2v sub C battery (yeah thats right - TYCO) from a buddy of mine just so I could set the MM and get the steering servo centered and setup. After getting everything set I said what the heck and tried to see if it had enough juice to even run the thing. I was expecting it to cog, but to my surprise - it never did. I actually took it out in the street and drove it until the battery dumped - and not one cog. Anyways, here are the pics. The last one show the "please don't hit my expensive - it will burn up if punctured" battery guard. It is bent 90 deg. and keys into the notch on the bottom of the battery plate. I don't plan on using it all the time, just when racing or bashing with bigger trucks.
I have only raced 18th scale for the last couple years and don't have any batteries other than 2/3A size, so I borrowed a Tyco 7.2v sub C battery (yeah thats right - TYCO) from a buddy of mine just so I could set the MM and get the steering servo centered and setup. After getting everything set I said what the heck and tried to see if it had enough juice to even run the thing. I was expecting it to cog, but to my surprise - it never did. I actually took it out in the street and drove it until the battery dumped - and not one cog. Anyways, here are the pics. The last one show the "please don't hit my expensive - it will burn up if punctured" battery guard. It is bent 90 deg. and keys into the notch on the bottom of the battery plate. I don't plan on using it all the time, just when racing or bashing with bigger trucks.
#23
You crt.5 has overkill written all over it, Dave. The Plett motor and battery box are pretty extreme. Nice and compact conversion, though. Better overkill than underkill. What battery are you planning on using(asuming the TRyco pack was a temporary thing)?
#24
i was just thinking of doing this to my XXX-4 G+ the other day now ive just gotta come up with plans...
#25
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Thanks Mike. I am planning on Maxamps 3S 5000mah packs, thats what the battery guard was made to fit around. With the foam padding on the battey plate, I should have about 3mm between the battery and the guard. I know it's all a little overkill, but this is going to be my only R/C for a while, so I wanted to do it right. The Tyco pack is just temporary - I just can't believe it even runs with it.
#26
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
The Academy Vehicle mentioned Dave posted pix of a conversion he did. Basically you would need to machine a chassis, top deck, and driveshaft if you want it to be true truck specs.
But, for a more truggy conversion, you pretty much just need the longer suspension parts or heck, get some RPM truck rims with a wide offset, they will bolt up to the buggy no problem as the hexes are sedan sized hexes.
But, for a more truggy conversion, you pretty much just need the longer suspension parts or heck, get some RPM truck rims with a wide offset, they will bolt up to the buggy no problem as the hexes are sedan sized hexes.
#27
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Living in a Van down by the river.
Posts: 1,146
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
This Hot Bodies Truck http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/kit.p...=66501&lang=en is what was talked about in a Lipo/brushless conversion of a 1/10 4WD Truck, in this thread.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=173482
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=173482
#28
im makin one out of my tamiya dark impact. its comin pretty good so far. extreemely stable. and once i get a stronger motor and a longer chassis itll be sick. ill post some pics up when im done
#30
Anyone thought of a Schumacher GTRe? its a 1/8 on-road based off the GTR nitro truck. I did some checking and found out the arms are the same between them and about 100.00 worth of parts and you can convert it to an electric truck. Wheelbase wise, its the same as a GT2/T4 and its slightly narrower. It uses 14mm hexxes, But can be wsapped to 12mm traxxas style easily