streetracer745

im running a reedy neo-one 4 star and an RLP sphere competition ESC. everything works fine, except the ESC keeps goign into thermal shut down. i cant go full throttle without going into thermal. the thing is though, that the ESC and motor arent even hot. the only thing that gets hot is the capacitor. is it possible that the capacitor can make the ESC go into thermal shut down if it gets too hot? if so, what can i do to coll the capacitor? or should i just replace it with a new one?

streetracer745

anyone?

Craps

Is it a glitch or a thermal shut down?

With mod motors and powerful BL systems we have now draw alot of current that can rob the r/x of voltage needed and I have had this problem with my spektrum r/x on bigger tracks at the farthest place on the track away from the driver's stand. This was fixed by adding a glitch buster we got from Spektrum added to the r/x that you can also make one with a capacitor and plug that matches your r/x plug type to stablize the voltage to it on hard runs.

Good luck!

streetracer745

it glitches occasionally when the buggy is far away, but it is thermal shut down i think. the red and yellow lights flash alternatively, which im pretty sure means its thermaling.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Is the heat sink on it and or fan?
I tried a 4300 without the heat sink and it would thermal.

Then it started doing it all the time and is waiting to be sent in for service.
It will run a minute and shut off. I turn the ESC off and back on and it will run a minute and shut off again.

streetracer745

it has the heat sink on it. and what you described, is exactly what mine does. but the thing is, that the ESC and motor arent hot at all. its actually cool to the touch. the only hot part is the cap but its like, extreamely hot and burns you when you touch it

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Check to be sure its in brushless mode and not brushed.

streetracer745

its in auto detect mode. so it will do either without a problem

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Take the run cap off.

streetracer745

just cut the cap off? im worried about that though cause i dont want to screw the warranty or anything

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

You cant ruin the warranty on a run cap replacement. We all change them from time to time as long as you use the recommended one that you replace it with.
If it works put on a new run cap. If not send it back with a letter and tell them your trouble shooting procedure and send it in.
call them ahead of sending to check you covered all possibilities.
I would unsolder it.
Good luck:

GO FAST AND TRY NOT TO CRASH.!

streetracer745

i have the older modeled one i think, and the cap might be soldered but it is covered with wires that cant be removed....

streetracer745

i just attempted to run it again, and once again it lasted a few seconds then started the whole red and yellow LEDs alternating flashing. what does that mean? i thought it was thermaling, but idk, it could be somethign else i guess.

streetracer745

after finally digging out my manual for the sphere, i read that the ESC can switch off frequently if there is a problem in the drivetrain? is that a problem or would it have to be a major problem in the drive train? everything else under that section wouldnt fit in except for extreem conditions, but that wont fit because it does it inside too when the temp is set at 70

jobo_ph

iTrader: (11)

If I were in your shoes, I'd try to replace the cap to see if the problem will go away.

If the problem still exists even with the new cap, then I'd send it in for repair at LRP.

But I guess sending an item for repair to LRP is a dilemma in itself. I've read their service is not good (i.e. months to get things repaired).

I read this thread... can't help but feel I'm really glad I have Novak BL systems...