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2wd Front End Design. A few questions.

2wd Front End Design. A few questions.

Old 04-19-2007, 01:16 AM
  #31  
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Wailinonya- To post pics just reply, scroll down to addition options, click on manage attachments, hit browse, find your picture file double click it, then hit upload. Thats all there is to it, your file will be attached with the post. Please post some pics of it, I'm really interesting to see exactally how this thing works.
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Old 04-19-2007, 06:01 AM
  #32  
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WheelNut: I sent you a P.M.

Silence360: I took a look at my B4 a few minutes ago and held up the bag of SACS arms I have and it would seem your biggest hurdle in adapting this system to the Associated would be the shock mounting location. On the SACS xx arms the shock mounts towards the very front of the arm on the B4 the shock mounts in the center. On a B4 the camber link is right in front of the shock so even if you put some kind of washers on the shock tower to move it out so it wouldn't be canted the shock would run right through the camber link. Essentially you would have to move the camberlink somewhere else or drill new mounting holes in the arm if possible. It looks like it would be possible to mount the shock tower on backwards which would move the camber link ballstud holes behind the shock tower and then you could mount the shocks on the front of the tower instead of behind, I think that would put the shock in a good position to line up with the mounting holes in the arm and be able to mount the camber rod behind the shock. The only other thing you would need to do that I can see visually in my head would be to enlarge the holes for the hingpins in the bulkhead to 1/8" for the larger pins the SACS arms use and apply some shimming washers to take up the difference in the larger gap these arms have over the B4 arms, referring to the gap the bulkhead takes up between the hingepin holes. The SACS arms are maybe 1/8" or less wider between the hingpin holes. It looks like putting the tower on backwards would do the trick, can't be sure though, but it deffinately looks possible. Making me think about keeping it to try out for myself, LoL.
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:29 AM
  #33  
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Here are the photos WailinOnYa sent me. Now it is all clear how it works.
Attached Thumbnails 2wd Front End Design. A few questions.-p1000180.jpg   2wd Front End Design. A few questions.-p1000181.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2007, 09:52 AM
  #34  
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Ha. Purple Trinity screws. I remember those, I have a bunch. They came with a great sticker, 'I Got Screwed By Trinity'.
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:21 PM
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I would love to find a set of these and try to put it on my X6.
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Old 04-22-2007, 12:42 PM
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jk racing: Might want to try shooting an Email over to Schumacher U.K. You never know, they might have some old stock laying around. Probably very unlikely, but you never no, it's worth sending an email just to find out! Used to be a shop here in the U.S. called Cats West, they advertised in RC Car Action, they used to carry the full line of schumacher products. Not sure if they are still around or what their # is. I don't think Schumacher USA was around yet when this suspension system was in production.
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Old 04-23-2007, 01:31 AM
  #37  
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OMG what a relic ,the cars of today are way better
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Old 04-23-2007, 04:16 AM
  #38  
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Sacs was awful.

It made the car more twitchy around neutral and gave massive understeer later in the corner.

One of the first things people used to do on fireblade evo was replace it with the ) degree version of sacs. (Effectively a conventional setup.)

I can only remember one team driver in the uk using it regularly, and he made some rather radical changes to the inboard suspension pick up location. - This was done in an effort to overcome the understeer inherent in the car due to an excessively high front roll centre.

Note that the trend with modern 2wd cars has been to reduce caster below 30 degrees. Not increase it which is what sacs does.

Sacs is only useful if the car is very unstable as it effectively increases track width for the outer wheel later in the corner.

All cars steered better in 1995. That is a fact.

Cells were lighter giving less polar inertia, and everything went a lot slower.

Just try putting a mabuchi in any car. - You will be amazed at how much easier it is to drive than if you bolt in a 7 turn.
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