Paul_67

iTrader: (75)

Are you guys running lighter springs and shock oil when going from NiMh to Lipos or just adding lead? My MF2 comes out right at the minimum ROAR weight with an Orion 4800 and no lead, but it doesn't handle as well as as it did with the Nimh's. I was curious if anyone had some good setup changes to make when switching over.

glassdoctor

iTrader: (4)

guys I know are adding weight to make it equal to a nimh pack.

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

It allows you to add weight where you need it, not just a brick in the center as with the nimh battery.

trashedmaxx

iTrader: (10)

Wookie on rc10b4 has been experimenting with 5 cells without adding extra weight. I know its not lipo but the setup changes should work with the lighter lipo's as well. Basically he was dropping to a lighter spring and lowering 5wt in oil.

Someday when I get bored I should weight my cars and get to the roar weight then work on the setups.

johnnyboy

iTrader: (28)

So far I found adding weight back in is better. I think I have about 4oz of lead in my 2wd buggy.

Paul_67

iTrader: (75)

I want to experiment with the setup so I can keep the weight as close to the legal limit as possible without adding too much lead. The car weights roughly 90% of what it weighed with Nimh, so I'm thinking I can go 10% softer on springs and oil and possibly 10% lower on the gear ratio.
With the lipo all the way forward, the front would barely stay on the ground even with a Novak 10.5. Then it dawned on me, with dropping 10% weight, the car was probably undergeared by at least 2 teeth. I also want to experiment with anti-squat and wheelbase settings to keep the front end down.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

I went to a lighter spring (from pink to yellow) and 55 pistons in the rear of my MF2 but I left the front alone. The truck picked up steering with the lighter battery. I am still not 100% satisfied with it. The buggy has been tougher to get where I want it.