Drove buddys Neu 1521 1600 6s truggy tonight,Might have to get that registered as a deadly weapon. Bad news is the front end bell came loose? Looks like he,s going to be doing a front endbell mod.
Whats a 1521?
The RPM range is about normal its really that fast?
I would say that the 8ight 1.0 truggy and buggies should still be plenty competitive, especially for conversions. And for the price of $299.99 at a lot of places and a whole lot cheaper used, I would say you get one heck of a vehicle to do a cheap conversion on.
Depending on how things go with AE concerning a customer support issue, I may end of trying something else, and the Losi is on the list.
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Academy GV2 Pro 1/10 Scale Brushless Buggy
Academy STR4 Pro II 1/10 Scale Brushless Sedan
Ofna Hyper 9E 1/8 Scale Brushless Buggy
I use a reversing Y harness with my M8 and a Tekno Losi kit. It works fine however there is one problem that I have run into. When making changes through the harness using the MMM and Castlelink it will read the ESC settings but will not let you change them properly. Maybe it is my setup but I am not sure. Now I just disconnet the harness and make my changes.
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
Man, that's exactly what I was thinking. I have one in the tail of my U-Can-Do in order to run the dual elevator servos. I might try one of those, I was just concerned that since the ESC provides the power to the receiver, that it might create an issue. But it sounds like it'll work fine! I'm gonna try it!
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Thanks,
Chuck
Electrics run on smoke, if you let it out they are done!
Hey guys, I'm getting a RC8 instead of a truggy. Verify if I'm wrong
The Tekno battery box is 150x50? Seems like all batteries are 168
The RCPD battery box is a nice 170x48.5
How do you fit big 5S batteries in the Tekno one?
I see that tekno offsets the center diff and gives new driveshafts. Nice job.
Now the RCPD one does it move the center diff over? I cant tell in the pics. They say factory holes.. so I dont know.
Anyone got pics of either setup of their own?
Were does the ESC go on the RCPD one?
Please help.
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I prefer the RC-Monster conversion. It moves the motor over and gets the batter closer to center. It does have a minor issue with the shape of the body, but it isn't a big deal. The battery tray is 168x48. Here are a couple of pics
I also redrilled my stock chassis to see if everything could fit. It does. I had to use my RCPD motor mount becaues of the 46t spur. I have since made spacers to go under the RC-Monster motor plate.
I got a chance to run a brief test of my newly converted Jammin CRT today, right before it started raining!
The Castle MMM 2200 Kv system is IMPRESSIVE on 4S. It'll pull wheelies all day long, and has impressive top speed. I'm running a 14T pinion, and the stock spur. I think I'm gonna reduce the spur size, not just for taller gearing, but to let the motor slide closer to it. At this point, the motor is very close to the end of the mount, where the screws can pull through. I've also got a "Funny Noise" coming from the rear driveshaft where it enters the diff cup. So I need to figure out what's going on in there. I'm still working on getting the brake servo to work, but so far so good!
Does anyone know of a Nylon spur that will fit the Jammin truggy's diff housing? It suffers some pretty awful gear noise from the metal on metal.
The front end bell is separate from the main body of the motor, and was rotating within its self. to fix this you need to do what was all ready done on the rear end bell, witch is running 4 small screws through the body of the motor into the end bell. If you check out the Losi 8E brushless motor you will see that they were smart and this mod or just common sense have done this on the rear and front AKA Extra Insurance!!!
Hmmm interesting.. I never knew that the longer Neu motors had 2 piece motor cans. All of the Neus I have had soild cans so I just assumed that they all did. Probably some sort of machining limitation that forced them to make it in multiple pieces for the longer can lengths.
I got a chance to run a brief test of my newly converted Jammin CRT today, right before it started raining!
The Castle MMM 2200 Kv system is IMPRESSIVE on 4S. It'll pull wheelies all day long, and has impressive top speed. I'm running a 14T pinion, and the stock spur. I think I'm gonna reduce the spur size, not just for taller gearing, but to let the motor slide closer to it. At this point, the motor is very close to the end of the mount, where the screws can pull through. I've also got a "Funny Noise" coming from the rear driveshaft where it enters the diff cup. So I need to figure out what's going on in there. I'm still working on getting the brake servo to work, but so far so good!
Does anyone know of a Nylon spur that will fit the Jammin truggy's diff housing? It suffers some pretty awful gear noise from the metal on metal.
Kyosho makes a nylon spur that will fit the jammin. I can't remember the part # but I'm sure someone on this fourm will know it.
Rob
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Associated T4 ,Tekin RS PRO 7.5 , thunder power 40c 2s 5000mah , 20/84 gears
Jconcepts J82 , mamba max 5700 , thunder power 40c 5000mah , 18/87
Factory Team RC8T mamaba monster , losi 2100kv motor , zippy 5s 5000mah H , 15/46 plastic spur.
Lots of helis and airplanes
Kyosho makes a nylon spur that will fit the jammin. I can't remember the part # but I'm sure someone on this fourm will know it.
Rob
hi, is nylon spur better than metal?
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CRT RCM, slip diff, Neu 1515/3d, HW150
X2CR, slip diff, Neu 1512/2.5D/F, MM
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you need the kyosho oring in the kyosho spurs if you are running losi diffs
the losi and kyosho's have the same ID but the OD is different so you need....
losi oring for losi parts
kyosho oring for kyosho parts
I don't know about the jammin stuff. but for $5 for oring you might as well just get some
SUPEREK4 = plastic vs metal is a personal preference
But..... if you have soft pinions you need to run plastic spur gears. the softer pinions are more of the heli specific pinions
hard pinions you can run on either or. like Losi, Novak, RC Monster
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