Hi guys, I bought a HPI Hellfire SS kit since they have gotten so cheap. I bought it with the intention of doing a brushless lipo conversion. I had not seen this thread on here before today. I learned quite a bit about what a good motor would be. I use a Mamba in my RC18’s and want to use the Mamba MAX in the Hellfire. I really like the castle link so if need be I will sacrifice reverse and use an aircraft ESC. This maybe a dumb question but the diff’s and everything can handle being run in reverse right?
Anyway I have a few options for the lay out but a lot is going to depend on what kind of lipo packs I can get my hands on, there cost or what I am milling to spend to build my own. I want to run a saddle pack setup the space I would have available for such a setup would be about 4” long, 2” wide, and 1.5” high per pack and I would like the end result to be a cell (14.8v). If nothing like this is available or none of the suppliers can make something like that I know I can make my own using the same type of packs I use in my RC18’s. I could wire 3 of the Hyperion 1800mAh 7.4v packs together for each side. If I am not mistaken this would give me 2 5400mAh 7.4v packs that I could then connect to make one 5400mAh 14.8v pack and would cost me about $250. My only real concern would be how to charge and balance them. I use an ICE charger and a Hyperion balancer. Though I am hoping there is a better solution to my saddle pack needs.
I would like to go saddle packs for balance obviously. But to do so will make me mount the motor up high above the diff witch would be great for cooling since the stock body is precut for the nitro. Or in the front opposite the servos witch probably wouldn’t be bad for balance but not as good for cooling. Either of these options are going to require me to use an intermediate gear between the spur and pinion so the motor can clears the diff or the top plate. But on the up side I will be able to retain my disk breaks.
My other option would be to mount the motor in the back behind the servos. If I do this I might not need to use an intermediate gear. But I am not 100% sure the can will clear the disk breaks. But I can run a longer pack on the opposite side. I am sure I will have room to get the balance from and rear to a point that would be acceptable I am just afraid the side with the pack is going to end up being much heavier then the other.
Obviously if I am going to retain the disk breaks I can not use reverse. I have yet to look and see if the motor break and reverse can both be fully disabled on the Mamba Max but since I would like to retain the disk breaks I am more inclined to go with one of castle creations aircraft ESC’s.
Anyway, I already know that most people would never buy an HPI hellfire kit and all that crap. It’s really a moot point since it’s what I have and what I am going to work with. But any other advice you may have would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
P.S I know this thread is really about the conversion kit being offered so I hope you don’t mind a do it your self guy intruding.
TGA78,
I will looked at the HPI.
You can mount your components very similiar to the EH7 pics I have posted. Motor on a bearing carrier motor mount combination, batteries on each side. All you need to do is pic your motor and start playing with the placement.
Diffs don't care which way they are turning. No question is dumb if you learn something.
You really don't need the manual brakes when you are running electric.
ESC brakes are awesome.
Dan
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Here are some new pics of the EH7 components.
Still on my dirty chassis.... LOL!!!
I am planning on using Traxxas Emaxx Battery bars. I will leave the battery bar mounting posts long and you can cut them to the length to suit the batteries you are using.
The Diff will change. I have found that all the Ofna center diff components are compatible with a Kyosho 777 center diff case and plastic MOD 1 pitch spur gear. They will be included with the kit. Then you can use any MOD 1 pinion you that is compatible with your motor. This will help reduce the cost and provide you with easily available replacement parts.
The look of the motor mount will change slightly.
To help keep cost down, I MAY choose to go with an Aluminum top plate and Servo mount. What do you think? Aluminum or Carbon Fiber?
I am going to switch to metric screws that will be included instead of the self tapping screws in the Ofna kit.
The batteries pictures are MAX AMP 6000 Mah 7.4 2S Lipo's. I will see how they perform VERY Soon.
Dan
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What run times are you experiencing with this conversion on a 5000mah battery? I'm curious if because of the size of the car if run times will be shortened. I know on a 1/10 scale buggy you can get 20-30 mins on a brushless and lipo.
In race conditions, We are hoping for a solid 15 min. We anticipate running 10 min races. It is all very new and we are still figuring all that out.
We will see very soon.
Dan
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I appreciate the advice but I am not sure I am ready to give up on the disk breaks. I know it would make the conversion a whole lot easier though. My thing with the breaks is that I can set a rear bias. If I let the motor break the car I am going to be front bias right? Running 7 front, 10 mind, and 3 rear for the diffs.
Anyway it’s going to be a few weeks until my nitro kit for the hellfire arrives. I am going to work on getting the kit assembled this weekend. I am sure once it’s together I will have a better idea of what I have to work with. Looking at those new picks of your buggy it seems you have a lot more width to work with then I do. You also don’t seem to have an upper deck witch is something else I have to deal with. The more I look at the upper deck the more I think I am going to have to design a new on to really make this work. Also my center diff isn’t centered left to right in my truck and that’s something I doubt I can change but it also poses some issues. Maybe I need to look at getting something like your buggy there since it seems well suited to handle saddle packs.
rdub...yes we had a class of 3 saturday at the runn. al and terry seemed to be pretty impressed with them. i ran my ERAZE for the first time and it handeled very nicely. we ran a 10 minute main and i thermaled a 9+ minutes becaues my motor fan wasnt working even before the race started. i predict that by the end of the summer there will be at least 6-9 showing up regurlary at the runn on saturdays.
on a side note i call my eraze a pig because it weighs in at 9.0 lbs. but i did dispell an old myth......pigs can fly
rdub...yes we had a class of 3 saturday at the runn. al and terry seemed to be pretty impressed with them. i ran my ERAZE for the first time and it handeled very nicely. we ran a 10 minute main and i thermaled a 9+ minutes becaues my motor fan wasnt working even before the race started. i predict that by the end of the summer there will be at least 6-9 showing up regurlary at the runn on saturdays.
on a side note i call my eraze a pig because it weighs in at 9.0 lbs. but i did dispell an old myth......pigs can fly
Some of us were there. Dan went to the Tiger game with his son. If your talking about Terry M., he got to drive my 8ight with the Neu motor before the racing started and got more air and distance than the fastest nitro. Al H. drove it in my second qualifier...nothing but grins.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdub202
did a few of you run at the runn saturday? i thought i might have read it somewhere dan but can't remember.
Can we stop renaming our converted cars as if they are something new? EH7 etc.... it's a Hyper 7... H7 for short. I will let the mfg rename the cars if they want if/when they produce electric kits. I do a double take every time I'm cruising through the posts and see an "electrifyd" name for a car.... (sp. I know...)
Or... maybe we need a universal naming chart for what all the converted cars shall be called.
Some of us were there. Dan went to the Tiger game with his son. If your talking about Terry M., he got to drive my 8ight with the Neu motor before the racing started and got more air and distance than the fastest nitro. Al H. drove it in my second qualifier...nothing but grins.
thanks for the replies guys. thats cool. they rip at washtenaw i would love to see them at the runn, a bigger more open track like that
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Are you guys finding that a 3s lipo is enough power, or do most of you need to go with a 4s lipo? I have also been debating putting like a mamba 6900 w/ a 3s lipo and properly gearing it to see how it performs.
[quote=TGA78]I appreciate the advice but I am not sure I am ready to give up on the disk breaks. I know it would make the conversion a whole lot easier though. My thing with the breaks is that I can set a rear bias. If I let the motor break the car I am going to be front bias right? Running 7 front, 10 mind, and 3 rear for the diffs.
you are right on with your rear bias idea. I wouldnt have it any other way.
I have 2 5000's running in series but I actually could put a longer pack on one side. there are picks in this thread.
New EH7 pics
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