Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.

[style-n-speed]

Originally Posted by Cain

macr0w: With truggy style ratios that the RC8 has, you have more gearing range. I think you may be better served by picking up a milder motor and go from there, or, go with a 3S setup, maybe that new 25C Maxamps 8000mah pack.

style-n-speed: You are using a medusa 2000kv 60mm motor, how has it performed in race conditions to answer dan's inquiry?

DJ1978: Thats great that the EA8 kits will be out soon! Hopefully we get a saturday ship date. By the way, what method will they ship so I know either to expect a USPS box, or a UPS one.

I havent been able to race the Last 2 weekends because of Rain and prior commitments. I may be able to get out a little this Sat, but I have my Neices Graduation Party, so my day will be short. I will post results after I race it. -Brad

[DJ1978]

Originally Posted by Cain

DJ1978: Thats great that the EA8 kits will be out soon! Hopefully we get a saturday ship date. By the way, what method will they ship so I know either to expect a USPS box, or a UPS one.

I ship all my kits in the US by US Postal Service 2-3 day Priority.
International shipments are US Postal Service Air Mail and usually take 1 week to 10 days depending on how long their customs service holds it up.
Dan

[Bob Novak]

Originally Posted by macr0w

I want to know what the front and rear diff ratios for a few different buggies are. Like the Losi 8, RC8, 777 and whatever others people are using.

I have a Mugen MBX-5 Prospec and I hear that the diffs are geared taller than other buggies. Is this true? Is it a big difference?

I sort of agree with statements made earlier about not using too small of a pinion. The MBX-5 in stock nitro trim would use at the least a 13t clutch bell. So it seems to me that this vehicle should probably not use less than a 12t.

I don't really know. I'm just trying to figure out how in the hell are guys running a 1512/1.5/D/F in a Mugen with a Mamba Max without constant thermalling. I can't do 3 laps at the local track or do more than a few laps in my back yard without thermalling. Right now I'm running an 11t pinion. I am going to order a 10t soon and see how that does.

But I'm starting to wonder: Is the KV rating of the 1.5 too high for a Mugens diff ratios? Don't get me wrong I love the power. It would be great if I could keep it running. I have smoked three esc's with this setup. And that's just since late April or early May.

I'm just thinking out loud. Comments please.

Here are the diff ratios of all the buggies that we make conversion kits for.
Associated= 4.3
CEN C-1 RTR=2.89, Race Edition=3.45
Hot Bodies=3.31
Kyoshio =3.31
Losi =3.31
Mugen=3.33
OFNA=3.31
XRAY=3.33
Bob Novak

[jhautz]

Originally Posted by Bob Novak

Here are the diff ratios of all the buggies that we make conversion kits for.
Associated= 4.3
CEN C-1 RTR=2.89, Race Edition=3.45
Hot Bodies=3.31
Kyoshio =3.31
Losi =3.31
Mugen=3.33
OFNA=3.31
XRAY=3.33
Bob Novak

Good list of good info. Thanks.

Adding 1 to that.

Xray XB808= 4.3

[TonysScrews]

All of the gearing options and diff ratios are also on my speed & gearing calculator.

(I added the 42T spur gear for the XB808 Jhautz ).

Speed & Gearing Calculator

Best regards,

[lutach]

Edit: I meant to say, "add the Mugen truggy diff which is 4.6".

[stampedeproject]

Originally Posted by Cain

Took a look through the novak conversions. Curious about a few things and wonder if anyone else has the same thoughts:

1. How high is the battery tray? Looks like they expect a dual pack setup of some kind based on the ESCs dual inputs, but the tray doesn't look very high.

2. How is chassis flex going to affect gear mesh?

3. For the Losi kit, looks like the battery is way over to the side still, lots of weigh hanging off the side.

4. Anyone know if there pinions are hardened like RC Monster?

Just my two cents here.

Maintaining consistent gear mesh on my direct (Novak Style conversion) was a problem. It really was not the motor or diff mount flex it was as you stated chassis/deck flex that really messed things up. I would think that thicker milled vs. stamped deck would help out considerably, however there is a ton of torque going on at that point.

The Losi conversions have to have the battery hanging way off on the other side to counterbalance the centralized mass and the motor being mounted so centrally.

[Edumakated]

I just wanted to get some opinions on the neu 1509, 1512, and 1515 in various KV in a buggy and their overall driving feel. I have been experimenting with a 1509 1.5y and 1512 1.5d as I have shared here in several posts and like both for different reasons and different environments.

I am favoring the 1512 1.5d on 4s right now on the outdoor track at Leisure Hours. The track is large enough to really open up the powerband and some very large jumps make having that extra something something very useful. The 1509 works much better on the smaller indoor track and I love the long run time, but I don't think it is powerful enough on the outdoor track. I am going to experiment with the 1509 motor on 5s tomorrow hopefully, so that may open up some other setup options.

I describe the way I have my car setup right now kind of like a rubberband with the 1512 1.5d on 4s. The guys that use the 1.5d probably know what I am talking about. It just snaps with power when you grab a lot of throttle and I found the perfect curve in the Mamba. Unfortunately, this setup is somewhat of a powerhog. I really want a more efficient setup, but I don't want to give up the high rev feel of the 1512 1.5d on 4s.

The crux of my question is if it is possible to have the same massive acceleration of the 1.5d on 4s at 48k rpms with a lower kv setup/high voltage setup running at say 30k rpms? I really would like to get 20 minutes without issue and not sacrifice my powerband.

Does a 1512 2.5d or 3d feel the same as the 1512 1.5d from a torque perspective and would they accelerate the same even though the RPMs would be lower?

If not, would bumping up to say a 1515 make up the torque loss but still be more efficient than running a high rev 1512?

And the nitro guys complain about us not having to "tune".... easy to say when you don't have 50 billion kv/motor/gearing/battery permutations to consider.

[stampedeproject]

Originally Posted by Edumakated

And the nitro guys complain about us not having to "tune".... easy to say when you don't have 50 billion kv/motor/gearing/battery permutations to consider.

Great point.

[badassrevo]

I have driven the 1.5d the 2d and I own and race the 2.5d. I recently got a 5s pack since the monster can handle it and I can tell you that the 2.5d works very well on 5s.
I dont know how to explain it but it is like the 1.5d but smoother it has the same powerfull feel and the crazy top speed but it is easier to control and seems to be very efficient. The 2.5d on 5s is a very good option.

[Edumakated]

Originally Posted by badassrevo

I have driven the 1.5d the 2d and I own and race the 2.5d. I recently got a 5s pack since the monster can handle it and I can tell you that the 2.5d works very well on 5s.
I dont know how to explain it but it is like the 1.5d but smoother it has the same powerfull feel and the crazy top speed but it is easier to control and seems to be very efficient. The 2.5d on 5s is a very good option.

I have been considering picking up the 2.5d. Are you saying it accelerates just as fast as the 1.5d? I know the top end would be the same, but does it spool up as fast? I think the 1.5d is not as controllable because most probably don't adjust the throttle curve. I found the instant acceleration is what makes it hard to drive till I made adjustments.

[badassrevo]

Yes on 5s it feels just like the 1.5d or faster but it is smoother. Like I said I cant describe it but it allows you to use the full trigger.

[Gary NJ]

Originally Posted by Edumakated

And the nitro guys complain about us not having to "tune".... easy to say when you don't have 50 billion kv/motor/gearing/battery permutations to consider.

Of course, you could always manage that volume of permutations the same way they do in the nitro classes....
































...you could have rules.

(BTW, good questions on the low kv/highkv and lower voltage/higher voltage approaches )

[Edumakated]

Gary:

Rules would be nice. Problem is no one really knows what works right now. Everyone is still testing and evaluating setups for different situations. There really isn't a magic setup just yet.

I guess there are two schools of thought. On one hand, I say run what you brung. On the other, I think 4s should probably be the standard as the easier and simplier we make things, the easier it will be to get people to convert.

Right now, it is hard to keep your head from spinning with all the various setup choices.

10 minute qualifiers with 15 minute mains. I hope all of us can get together and create the rules before one of the beauracrats justs pull something out of their ass or a mfg tries to give themselves a monopoly.

[badassrevo]

10 minute qualifiers with 15 minute mains.
I am also a run what you brung kinda guy. It will even out because the "fast" motors are not always track motors.