After a few hard laps, my mamba heat sink came undone from the case.
Sorry for the bad pic, but I hope someone can help. Is this just super glue or something that is holding it down (on the FETS I believe they are called, and I think that's what the heat sink is sitting on). I have zip ties that hold the whole Mamba to the plate, in addition to the screws. The zip ties broke and I think it was just too much for it.
This happen to anyone? Any help or is it kinda toast if this thing pops off?
I was one who originally said that I thought the 1512 1.5D was a bit much for this car. Well.....either my car is gettting a little worn, or I am getting used to it. I honestly think it's perfect right now (sorry if I discouraged anyone to go smaller). Don't get me wrong, it's still a handful, but I am getting used to it and LOVE it.
If I had two wishes to make my e8ight complete...........
1. A slipper that (possibly) resembled the new Associated B44's 4WD buggy.
2. A sensored motor that made it smoother (especially the brakes). The motor feels heavy in the lower register. Mid to top end it feels just beautiful!!
But that's getting nit picky. In it's current state of almost proto-type development, I think you all have kicked some major butt here. I'm loving my car!!
Little wiring question. I've done like the FAQ says on RC Products, meaning UBEC in battery slot, steering in CH1, Mamba Max in CH2 and fans in CH3. I've done this step by step and the speedo lights were ok just before I start using the UBEC and unplugged Mamba's red wire. When I do, no light anymore on speedo while receiver is on. Idea?
If you take a close-up pic. It would help on the diag. Sometimes it is as simple as the connector plugged in backwards, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sylv456
Little wiring question. I've done like the FAQ says on RC Products, meaning UBEC in battery slot, steering in CH1, Mamba Max in CH2 and fans in CH3. I've done this step by step and the speedo lights were ok just before I start using the UBEC and unplugged Mamba's red wire. When I do, no light anymore on speedo while receiver is on. Idea?
__________________
Losi 8ight--MMM 2650 Castle
Losi 8T 2.0--Neu 1515 1Y/F MMM V1 or 2200 Castle
Enerland Batteries 5S-5000 Mah or 5S-5000 Turnigy
www.rcproductdesigns.com
Schmutz ist für den Rennsport, asphalt ist für die Anreise
Now we're talking! I bet that thing screams on 6s. I wonder what a 1.5D would do on 6s?
I also wonder how that MGM is going to hold up? I am going to keep up with that thread. That is precisely the reason I am interested in the MGM controller. I am going to try an wait on the MMM from Castle.
Boy! now I really can't wait for my RCPD kit to show up. I need more money.
I made this crappy video for a few people in Brasil. The truck is a Bomb-Proof Products running 6S lipos, Neu 1521/1Y and a Schulze 40.160. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFoYkI_-v_M
The weather here in NJ will be in the 50s so I will make another video of this truck running.
The Neu motors have a maximum RPM of 60,000 so the 1512 1.5D can only be run on up to 4 cells (14.8 volts x 3200/kv = 47,360 RPM's). Theoretically you can run a 5S pack but fully charged the 5S pack would have over 18.5 volts and exceed the maximum RPM.
What are the benfits of the Y over the D or is the D over the Y?
If there were 2 motors in the same range (say 1512 series) what would be better for our conversion application?
The Neu motors have a maximum RPM of 60,000 so the 1512 1.5D can only be run on up to 4 cells (14.8 volts x 3200/kv = 47,360 RPM's). Theoretically you can run a 5S pack but fully charged the 5S pack would have over 18.5 volts and exceed the maximum RPM.
So I guess that means that a lower KV motor would be able to take more voltage?
I made this crappy video for a few people in Brasil. The truck is a Bomb-Proof Products running 6S lipos, Neu 1521/1Y and a Schulze 40.160. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFoYkI_-v_M
The weather here in NJ will be in the 50s so I will make another video of this truck running.