My chassis is a 777 SP2 and with it on the bench with a hand on the front and rear I can flex the chassis and make the pinion sweep radially through the spur +/- 1mm, it doesn't change the mesh. In torsion No change. I don't know if the car ever flexes that much in use, I just thought it was strange that Kyosho put the flex right at the center diff, seems like all the chassis braces end about the same place.
if you are only stripping pinions, go with a different manufacture for the pinion gear...
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Here we go again with misinformation This is simply not true. Gear mesh issues are few and far between with the Tekno kits (not sure about Novak). Take a look at the kits and you'll see we made sure the center diff is braced to the chassis to prevent any flex in that area. The rest of the chassis is free to flex. To date we have not stripped out a single clutch bell. Additionally, the motor is not hanging off the center diff with just 2 screws, it's totally secure. Thanks.
Don't get your Tekno panties in a bunch & read what I said.
"Some chassis are worse than others for this."
Your clutch & your brace make your kit less likely to have this issue I agree but the OP on this topic was not using your clutch or your kit. He has a Mugen.
Just relax it was not an attack on Tekno.
any views,ideas and/or opinions on nylon spurs for 1/8 brushless truggy.i have recently chewed a couple of pinions using rcm pinions on stock mugen 46t spur.motor mount is straigh and mesh was set fine.was looking at the kyosho nylon spurs on rcmonster store as a possible alternative
KneeDeep, You cannot fit the Kyosho spur on the Mugen diff. I use a compleate Kyosho ceter diff in order to use their plastic gear. The problem is that the Kyosho center diff does not fit into the Mugen center diff bulkheads. RCPD makes his mounts for the Mugen & they fit the Kyosho diff. The Kyosho diff is a bit over 2mm longer (bearing outside to bearing outside).
Don't get your Tekno panties in a bunch & read what I said.
"Some chassis are worse than others for this."
Your clutch & your brace make your kit less likely to have this issue I agree but the OP on this topic was not using your clutch or your kit. He has a Mugen.
Just relax it was not an attack on Tekno.
KneeDeep, You cannot fit the Kyosho spur on the Mugen diff. I use a compleate Kyosho ceter diff in order to use their plastic gear. The problem is that the Kyosho center diff does not fit into the Mugen center diff bulkheads. RCPD makes his mounts for the Mugen & they fit the Kyosho diff. The Kyosho diff is a bit over 2mm longer (bearing outside to bearing outside).
that means he has to buy a complete diff assembly and a whole nother conversion kit just to run a plastic spur. That's almost $200... Just buy another manufacture pinion gear and call it a day.
I have ran metal on metal since I started racing electric 1/8th scale and I never striped any pinion nor spur. If the issue is stripping pinions, then the simplest solution is to buy another manufacture's pinion gear.
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* Mugen MBX6T -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1700kv System on 5S
* Losi E-8ight-B 1.8 -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1900kv System on 5S
* Mugen EMBX5 Prospec -- Castle Creation MMM 2200kv System on 4S
* Xray M18 -- Castle something on 2S
* EMBX6 in HD action and E-8ight-T 2.0 in HD action: just YOUTUBE(teeforb)
I hate the metal gear noise but I would be surprised if the plastic would live in my car without the endbell mounting motor mount. I want to try just to see if it will quiet it down.
I've run both plastic and metal spurs and, when properly meshed, I can't tell the difference between the two when I am far enough away from the car to see the whole track. And I especially can't tell the difference when the car is on the track with other electrics 1/8th. When running with nitros, I can't hear my car at all.
I've run both plastic and metal spurs and, when properly meshed, I can't tell the difference between the two when I am far enough away from the car to see the whole track. And I especially can't tell the difference when the car is on the track with other electrics 1/8th. When running with nitros, I can't hear my car at all.
Amen to that! I actually wear ear plugs when I have to race with nitros
I'm looking for some gearing advice for my MP9E. I'm running a Castle 2650 motor, Castle speedo, and have a 46 spur on the car (4S Lipo). Going to be running at Thunder Alley for the Sidewinder race this weekend so if anyone has any gearing advice for that track that would be very helpful.
that means he has to buy a complete diff assembly and a whole nother conversion kit just to run a plastic spur. That's almost $200... Just buy another manufacture pinion gear and call it a day.
I have ran metal on metal since I started racing electric 1/8th scale and I never striped any pinion nor spur. If the issue is stripping pinions, then the simplest solution is to buy another manufacture's pinion gear.
yeah,not to keen on getting a whole new diff amd motor mount as that stuff is pretty expensive down here in my neck of the woods will look into other pinion manufacturers. what ones run the same pitch as moogen? the one i recieved with my monster mamba doesnt fit.
many thanks to those who have shared there views and experise on this matter.much appreciated
Any mod 1 pinion will work Hot Bodies makes some nice ones that just came out, Robinson racing is always good, Novak and some more.
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that means he has to buy a complete diff assembly and a whole nother conversion kit just to run a plastic spur. That's almost $200... Just buy another manufacture pinion gear and call it a day.
I have ran metal on metal since I started racing electric 1/8th scale and I never striped any pinion nor spur. If the issue is stripping pinions, then the simplest solution is to buy another manufacture's pinion gear.
Well before you got involved there really wasn't any hard enough pinions to run metal to metal, so we used plastic spurs from Kyosho. I believe it was Glassdoctor that I remember being one of the first ones to use the plastic. The only thing available for metal to metal was a converted nitro pinion to fit the 5mm Plettenburg shaft. It lasted about 3 races before it totally stripped. Plastic was just a standard for a while and just caught on. I like it because of the noise the metal ones eventually make, but the harded pinions now have no wear issues.
I you face the facts ... some folks come on the forum to say that they stripped something or their battery, esc, motor went in up smoke ... don't always tell you how many times they jumped their house (because it can) before that happened. I personally refuse to associate myself with any sort of bashing. I don't see the fun in it. I just like to race instead.
Are you going to Ontario for the race this month?
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I've run both plastic and metal spurs and, when properly meshed, I can't tell the difference between the two when I am far enough away from the car to see the whole track. And I especially can't tell the difference when the car is on the track with other electrics 1/8th. When running with nitros, I can't hear my car at all.
"when properly meshed" what does that mean? I put a new spur and pinion in mine to change the gearing after running an old spur and new pinion and it sounded like a blender full of bolts. I had set it up just a tad looser than a 48 pitch gear, it was bad. One heat and everyone was coming up to me to let me know it was wrong. It made so much noise I sure I could have heard it with the nitro cars.
I loosened it up past where I think it should be and now it's getting quieter with every run?
I've run both plastic and metal spurs and, when properly meshed, I can't tell the difference between the two when I am far enough away from the car to see the whole track. And I especially can't tell the difference when the car is on the track with other electrics 1/8th. When running with nitros, I can't hear my car at all.
I have practiced with Nitro but last night was the first time I had to run with them and I hated it. I didn't realize how much I listen to my car when I race until I couldn't hear it.
I thought all the hammers were in the Slash class until last night, SPT buggy is where the rest are!
I have done good in electric 1/8 but after last night I know it's not my buggy if I don't good. I managed to qualify 4th, ran most of the race in second and right after I got passed for second the leader broke so I got it back. I managed to my fastest lap in both heats and the main at a 20.5 but most of my laps were in the mid 21s to high 22s. The few pros that were there were running high 18s and low 19s. the guy that won expert had four laps in the 19s and all the rest 18s.
Now If I can just narrow the spread in my average laps
This is simply not true. Gear mesh issues are few and far between with the Tekno kits (not sure about Novak). Take a look at the kits and you'll see we made sure the center diff is braced to the chassis to prevent any flex in that area. The rest of the chassis is free to flex. To date we have not stripped out a single clutch bell. Additionally, the motor is not hanging off the center diff with just 2 screws, it's totally secure. Thanks.
. I had set it up just a tad looser than a 48 pitch gear, it was bad. One heat and everyone was coming up to me to let me know it was wrong. It made so much noise I sure I could have heard it with the nitro cars.
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