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So i'm finally taking the plunge on an electric 1/8th scale and I have a couple of questions that I am sure are in this thread, but I don't want to wade through 1200+ pages so here goes. 1) What company makes the best bullet connectors? I know that the stock connectors on the Mamba Max caused some issues. Are the new connectors from Castle better? 2) What company makes the best pinion gears? I myself like Robinson Racing but does somebody else make something better?
Thanks for your time,
Ifuonlyknew
I buy the Novak 3 packs. They have lasted me a while now and dont show much sings of ware. Also at $21 for 3 you cant go wrong versus $10-12 each for other brands.
So i'm finally taking the plunge on an electric 1/8th scale and I have a couple of questions that I am sure are in this thread, but I don't want to wade through 1200+ pages so here goes. 1) What company makes the best bullet connectors? I know that the stock connectors on the Mamba Max caused some issues. Are the new connectors from Castle better? 2) What company makes the best pinion gears? I myself like Robinson Racing but does somebody else make something better?
Thanks for your time,
Ifuonlyknew
I agree with both of the recommendations of RC-Monster and Robinson Racing pinions. They are the most durable and last a long time.
As far as connectors. I much prefer the 5.5mm bullets from neumotors over the 6mm from castle creations. Much longer and better engagement. http://web.me.com/sneu/index.html 10 pairs for 19.95 shipped.
For the past 12 months I've been running the following setup without any real issues:
Losi 8ight w/RCPD conversion kit
Neu 1512 2D/F
Modified MM (external BEC and 25mm fan) (no drag brake, no punch control, default settings for most of the configuration)
PolyRC 4S 25C 5000 and 6000 batteries
geared 12/46
The buggy has been brilliant, with decent run times (15-20 minutes dependant upon battery and track conditions) and excellent temps- ESC 140 or below, Motor 130-165 (pushed very hard), battery 100-130.
A few months ago, I was out in muddy conditions and the motor literally was full of mud. I pulled it apart, cleaned it as best I could and continued to use it without any problems; the bearings did show signs of wear and tear and damage from the mud, but it continued to run well, albeit a little slower (to be expected with the bearings).
The other day the signal and earth wire from the MM to the rx came loose, so I decided to change over to my spare MM (new external bec/fan) and a new Neu 1512 2D/F. The 'new' Neu spun much more freely than the 'mudified' motor I was running and testing it on my own track it was manically fast!!!! (Much faster than I remember the old motor ever being- think of the difference between a turbo charged car in the middle of summer on a hot humid day, and at night in the middle of winter with cold, dry air!!). Temps were a little higher (150 just practicing, compared to 130-140 normally) and there was a little more wheelspin as I
adjusted to the new found power.
A few days after that I went to my local track for a practice run- the drivetrain was all free, the motor turning well and the buggy was rocketing around. I came back in after 15 minutes and the temp was around 180- higher than I would normally see. I gave it 10 mins to
cool down but I was rushed along (my wife had attended the track with me!) and went back out with a fresh battery soon after. After 5 minutes, the car seemed to be cutting out and behaving as though drag brake was enabled, so I drove back to the pits to check everything.
As I walked towards the car, I could smell burned plastic..... long story short, the motor wires had melted through the heatshrink- the motor was at 232!!!!! I went home, pulled the motor apart and noticed that the material between two of the stators had cracked and copper wire was poking through. I tried a quick ('hold together for 5 minutes then break') repair and
pushed the copper strand back in place, put tape on the wires and tried the motor again. The motor was still running just as well, maybe with a little less punch. The drivetrain and motor both spun freely but after 5 minutes, temps were 180-190!
Long term I am going to convert a 2.0 and run low kv on 6S, but this buggy will still be my practice/backup car. To avoid hassles in the future, I am going to run a 2.5D on 4S, but what I really want to understand, is what was different with the 'new' Neu 2D???? All the settings on the ESC were the same, gearing the same, drivetrain free and smoother than ever yet temps were crazy. I don't think I was getting excessive wheel spin on my local track (on my own track on medium compound tyres I was, but not on soft compound on a hard packed track), but other than that, I can think of no reason that the second motor ran so hot.
Any ideas?
Is it possible the motor was labelled incorrectly and I ended up with a 1.5D?
Undergeared?
P.S Ambient temp has increased by about 5 deg C (the above temps are in F) during the change to the new motor, but I wouldn't have expected that much of an impact on motor temps.
Unfortunately Neu motors suffer an inevitable death from the wire leads fatiguing and failing, as they are the ends of the actual coils and are not meant to flex. I am not saying this is what is happening in your case. It might be something different, but the symptoms are that the motor will begin to run hotter and hotter for seemlingly no reason. The Tekin motors are based on the neu motors internally, but have solder tabs and will not have this problem. My 1900 on 4s rarely runs above 130 regardless of gearing or how long i run, so although I have not tried an actual neu motor, it seems to me that they would have to be pretty close in efficiency if that is the deciding factor. Besides that, tekin is built for cars and the neu motor for heli-copters, so the choice is easy.
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CRT RCM, slip diff, Neu 1515/3d, HW150
X2CR, slip diff, Neu 1512/2.5D/F, MM
" First 1/8 Ep racing team in singapore "
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Unfortunately Neu motors suffer an inevitable death from the wire leads fatiguing and failing, as they are the ends of the actual coils and are not meant to flex. I am not saying this is what is happening in your case. It might be something different, but the symptoms are that the motor will begin to run hotter and hotter for seemlingly no reason. The Tekin motors are based on the neu motors internally, but have solder tabs and will not have this problem. My 1900 on 4s rarely runs above 130 regardless of gearing or how long i run, so although I have not tried an actual neu motor, it seems to me that they would have to be pretty close in efficiency if that is the deciding factor. Besides that, tekin is built for cars and the neu motor for heli-copters, so the choice is easy.
The wires are definitely an issue- I've had them rub and become exposed before, but overall the motor has been fantastic, until the replacement motor was put in. I know someone on here put glue around the wires where they exit the endbell to stop movement, but my current motor had issues before the meltdown.
I still haven't decided what motor I will run in my next buggy (either Neu 1512 3.5D/F or Tekin (low kv motor))- to replace the 'hot' motor, I am happy to try another Neu (2.5D) as the quality and performance of Steve Neu's motors seems second to none. Admittedly they were not designed specifically for cars, and 1/8 offroad certainly abuses them, but they seem to be the proven, reliable motor thus far. I'll have to check the Tekin thread to see how their motors are holding up and whether it would be a worthy replacement for the Neu.
SuperEK4: Do you mean my motor? If so, I still have a round can. A square 'outer' can (or mount like the tekno RC mount) would be interesting as it would be attached to the chassis and use the chassis as an additional heatsink. Temps may well drop with something like that, but then residual heatsoak/heat retention might be an issue between runs (I don't know whether the increased size/surface area of the chassis would result in it cooling quickly, or if it would be large enough and thick enough to retain heat).
Yeah I was asking becoz I think the square can should be better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by superlapS15
The wires are definitely an issue- I've had them rub and become exposed before, but overall the motor has been fantastic, until the replacement motor was put in. I know someone on here put glue around the wires where they exit the endbell to stop movement, but my current motor had issues before the meltdown.
I still haven't decided what motor I will run in my next buggy (either Neu 1512 3.5D/F or Tekin (low kv motor))- to replace the 'hot' motor, I am happy to try another Neu (2.5D) as the quality and performance of Steve Neu's motors seems second to none. Admittedly they were not designed specifically for cars, and 1/8 offroad certainly abuses them, but they seem to be the proven, reliable motor thus far. I'll have to check the Tekin thread to see how their motors are holding up and whether it would be a worthy replacement for the Neu.
SuperEK4: Do you mean my motor? If so, I still have a round can. A square 'outer' can (or mount like the tekno RC mount) would be interesting as it would be attached to the chassis and use the chassis as an additional heatsink. Temps may well drop with something like that, but then residual heatsoak/heat retention might be an issue between runs (I don't know whether the increased size/surface area of the chassis would result in it cooling quickly, or if it would be large enough and thick enough to retain heat).
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CRT RCM, slip diff, Neu 1515/3d, HW150
X2CR, slip diff, Neu 1512/2.5D/F, MM
" First 1/8 Ep racing team in singapore "
http://8scaleracers.web44.net
The wires are definitely an issue- I've had them rub and become exposed before, but overall the motor has been fantastic, until the replacement motor was put in. I know someone on here put glue around the wires where they exit the endbell to stop movement, but my current motor had issues before the meltdown.
I still haven't decided what motor I will run in my next buggy (either Neu 1512 3.5D/F or Tekin (low kv motor))- to replace the 'hot' motor, I am happy to try another Neu (2.5D) as the quality and performance of Steve Neu's motors seems second to none. Admittedly they were not designed specifically for cars, and 1/8 offroad certainly abuses them, but they seem to be the proven, reliable motor thus far. I'll have to check the Tekin thread to see how their motors are holding up and whether it would be a worthy replacement for the Neu.
SuperEK4: Do you mean my motor? If so, I still have a round can. A square 'outer' can (or mount like the tekno RC mount) would be interesting as it would be attached to the chassis and use the chassis as an additional heatsink. Temps may well drop with something like that, but then residual heatsoak/heat retention might be an issue between runs (I don't know whether the increased size/surface area of the chassis would result in it cooling quickly, or if it would be large enough and thick enough to retain heat).
Fair dinkum superlapS15. The Neu motor's have their fault and the wires fatiguing inside and breaking has happened to some of us in the past. If we use those motors we secured the outside wires to not allow them to flex for a fix.
Overall there are more motors choices now. The most durable one I've seen has been the CC motors. The longer 2200 works on the buggy and truggy. Lately others have had rotors come apart even with the new design, but it is hard to find a CC that has flat out failed. Most in my area use CC then Tekin then Neu. We had a local series race yesterday with 29 electric 1/8th scales. It is always a pleasure to watch the "die hard" fast nitro guy race the electric and feeling like he has a new best girlfriend.
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If I end up going with the Neu 2.5D as a replacement on my existing setup, it sounds like double shrinkwrapping and securing the wires is a must. I do like the CC/Neu 2200 motor, as it should run cooler than my 2D but still have plenty of punch. The extra surface area of the can certainly won't hurt things either.
For my next conversion (8ight 2.0), I was really wanting to try 6S/low KV motor- it seems that with 6S you can run lighter battery packs (3300mah- under 500 grams) and get longer run times and cooler motor temps with low KV motors (relying on... power = voltage x current, and reducing the current drawn whilst increasing voltage). Neu and Tekin are the only low kv options for me at the moment though. Will Castle be releasing lower kv CC/Neu motors in the future? If so, I would quite happily try that over a Neu or a Tekin- I am a big fan of Castle products and haven't heard anything bad about the CC motors (ESC I am still tempted to run an external BEC to bump up the voltage to the servo and take strain off the MMM).
RCMonster still seems to have 1600KV Medusa motors. I think they are 4 pole, 36x70MM, and are really good.
I'v got a Feigao XL, 1830KV motor that I will be putting in my 8T and moving the 2100KV over to the 8B. I also have a 6XL that I want to try on 3S in the buggy for smaller more technical tracks.
Both for my existing buggy and my next conversion I will most likely stay with Neu/Tekin/CC (if they release a 1400kv motor).
I know a lot of people have run the Medusa and Feigao motors (and Novak) with success, but I've heard far too many complaints to try them (bear in mind that I'm one of those people who waits until service packs are released for OS's before changing, and waits til new products have been run for about a year and either criticised or praised before buying anything!).
If CC were to bring out a CC/NEU low kv motor, I would most likely try it before the Tekin T8. I haven't completely ruled out Neu, as I had 12 months of trouble free running with the 2D, but more people are trying and recommending the CC and Tekin motors so I may be less 'Neu-centric' in my thinking
I still don't know why the original ('replacement') got so hot the first time though- after the wires melted, the subsequent problem became apparent, but the first run I wouldn't have expected such high temps. Perhaps it was the ambient temp change, or maybe variance in a hand built motor. Who knows <shrugs>
Just saw a comment on the Tekin thread that may relate to my heat issues- braking.
I found that I am staying on the throttle much longer and braking later on both my practice track and my local track. Previously I would back off earlier and rarely use any braking. I still have the drag brake set to 0, and the brake settings are the same as my previous set up, but my extensive use of the brakes may well have contributed to the heat issue. (I should have thought about that earlier!).
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