Exactly. I am on hunt for xxx-nt brake hardware, which I believe should work out perfectly with this mod. I was also thinking of mixing in the motor brake and just using the micro servo to control rear brake. This would allow biasing and taking a big of the load, and thus temps, off the motor.
I was thinking about doing the same thing. I recently converted the center drive line on my RC8 to dog bones instead of cvd's (The cvd's just get gummed up too fast and dry out bad). I used O'Donnell ZO1B dog bones and Ofna center diff cups from one of their older buggies.
Since I have the flat sided diff cup as the input to my rear diff box, I could put the brake disk in the back like one of the Hyper cars (I can't remember which one it is).
Then your brake bias can simply be controlled by the mixing with the 3rd channel. Need more rear brake, mix in more 3rd channel. Pretty simple. The only thing I worry about is brake fade through a run. The electronic brakes do not fade, but the mechanical one probably do. This would cause a variable brake bias during each run.
I was thinking about doing the same thing. I recently converted the center drive line on my RC8 to dog bones instead of cvd's (The cvd's just get gummed up too fast and dry out bad). I used O'Donnell ZO1B dog bones and Ofna center diff cups from one of their older buggies.
Since I have the flat sided diff cup as the input to my rear diff box, I could put the brake disk in the back like one of the Hyper cars (I can't remember which one it is).
Then your brake bias can simply be controlled by the mixing with the 3rd channel. Need more rear brake, mix in more 3rd channel. Pretty simple. The only thing I worry about is brake fade through a run. The electronic brakes do not fade, but the mechanical one probably do. This would cause a variable brake bias during each run.
The Z-Car does almost the same thing you are talking about and parts are cheap for it. You might want to look into that brake assembly and see if you can scrounge up anything.
Alright guys I need some input on my next project. I'm building a high voltage 6S HB D8 buggy. I've already got 2 zippy 3000 6s to keep the size and weight down I'm not looking to get extra long run time since this car will be used during the indoor season so 10-15min is more then enough. my question is what motor should I run...
Tekin Truggy 1550kv
Tekin Buggy 1400kv
Tekin Truggy 1350kv
also keep in mind this buggy has 4.3:1 diffs
thanks,
Nick
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Nick Vasquez
Hot Bodies D8Te, Ve8, AE RC10B4, Blitz
RC Product Designs
Dirt Burner Racing
I think you should go with the 1550KV motor. I run my d8 on a 5s with a Neu 1512 1700KV motor and have to gear pretty high to get 40mph. The motor heats up a good bit as well due to the D8 being a pretty heavy buggy.
Alright guys I need some input on my next project. I'm building a high voltage 6S HB D8 buggy. I've already got 2 zippy 3000 6s to keep the size and weight down I'm not looking to get extra long run time since this car will be used during the indoor season so 10-15min is more then enough. my question is what motor should I run...
Tekin Truggy 1550kv
Tekin Buggy 1400kv
Tekin Truggy 1350kv
I think you should go with the 1550KV motor. I run my d8 on a 5s with a Neu 1512 1700KV motor and have to gear pretty high to get 40mph. The motor heats up a good bit as well due to the D8 being a pretty heavy buggy.
what size 5s are you running??
for kicks I ran the 6s packs in my d8t with a 2200kv castle, epa turn down to 70% geared 13/50 i made 12mins flat (around 255mah/min) the motor was 150°, esc 140°, and battery was 100° at race pace on a 100 x 150 track (hines park/dirt burner racing)
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Nick Vasquez
Hot Bodies D8Te, Ve8, AE RC10B4, Blitz
RC Product Designs
Dirt Burner Racing
I am using a NeuEnergy 5s 25C 4300mah pack. It just barely fits height wise as the body is simply resting on it. Luckily the battery doesn't get the impact on crashes...
I am using a NeuEnergy 5s 25C 4300mah pack. It just barely fits height wise as the body is simply resting on it. Luckily the battery doesn't get the impact on crashes...
losi or RC-M battery tray?
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Nick Vasquez
Hot Bodies D8Te, Ve8, AE RC10B4, Blitz
RC Product Designs
Dirt Burner Racing
RCM battery tray. Here is a picture (minus a couple upgrades I now have ):
looks good!! my truggy is back on page 1171 I cant wait to get the buggy going! did you do the 112mm shock upgrade? also i heard they had problems with the front shock tower bending have you had any issues?
__________________
Nick Vasquez
Hot Bodies D8Te, Ve8, AE RC10B4, Blitz
RC Product Designs
Dirt Burner Racing
Yah, I saw the truck when you posted it. Looks great! I was thinking about converting my D8 buggy to the D8t, but after looking at the price of parts, it would be cheaper to simply buy the D8t as a kit. So far I haven't had any problems with the front shock tower. Although I can see it happening in the future. It really does seem to take the brunt of the impact on crashes. The track near me, as well as the places I use for testing the buggy are pretty smooth so I haven't found the need to upgrade to the 112mm shocks yet.
Good luck on the buggy build! Always good to see more electric D8 owners...
):
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