How much help does a heat sink on the motor actually give?
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How much help does a heat sink on the motor actually give?
Depends on the heatsink. My friend has the Losi clamp on heatsink and it is good for about 15 to 20 degree F. I would imagine that the Novak heatsink for their Hv motors would be pretty good since they are in direct contact with the stator laminations. In the past I have tried the little clip on heatsinks and they don't work well at all. A heatsink has to have solid contact with the motor in order to work.
I am looking to run this between the ESC and receiver. That way when I want to configure the receiver, I don't have to keep pulling the lead out of the receiver and plugging it into the programming device (castle link, etc).
Thoughts? This will be used with the speed passion ESC which still connects to the battery to power everything up, unlike castle link where you disconnect the battery.
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I am looking to run this between the ESC and receiver. That way when I want to configure the receiver, I don't have to keep pulling the lead out of the receiver and plugging it into the programming device (castle link, etc).
Thoughts? This will be used with the speed passion ESC which still connects to the battery to power everything up, unlike castle link where you disconnect the battery.
It might just work. You will have to put the switch in "On" for when you are running the car and in "Off" for programming.
OOOps maybe not. I just noticed that there isn't a 3rd signal wire in that setup. It might work if you added the "White" wire into all 3 connectors.
I have added a 4" extension to my ESC harness so that I don't have to go into my receiver box in order to program my esc. I just pull apart the junction between the ESC harness and the extension and plug my Hotwire in there.
I believe a y-harness has two female ends and 1 male. I think you would need two male and 1 female for programming. I am describing the gender by the plastic case of the connector and not the pins and sockets.
I got the Novak HV heat sink and it will be going on the Speed passion motor. I wanted the Losi clamp on but couldnt find out if it would work on 36mm motors, I dont know what size the Losi motors are it says 670 size or something thats all I could get so I went with the Novak.
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I got the Novak HV heat sink and it will be going on the Speed passion motor. I wanted the Losi clamp on but couldnt find out if it would work on 36mm motors, I dont know what size the Losi motors are it says 670 size or something thats all I could get so I went with the Novak.
I think the Losi motor is 40mm in diameter so that heatsink will not fit many other motors (if any). Which Novak heatsink did you get? The one they use in the 1/8th kits will only fit their motors... I think. This one fits other motors I think
the esc lead needs to be disconnected from the reciever to connect to teh programmer or lcd unit.
Having a y lead wont allow it to boot up.
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Thats the 1 I got. Says there 35mm ID thats probably so it stays on. I was kinda in a rush there is a big race I want to run the new car at and want to be safe. I am waiting for the Turnigy heatsink with fan at Hobbycity to get back in stock thats what I really wanted for it. But if this 1 works well I will stay with it.
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Caster Fusion pro SA 2200 combo Hitec servo on 4S- Ve8 MMM 2200 system on 4S W/ACE products. Hitec servo, KO EX1-UR 2.4.
Sponsor
GO-ENGINE.COM, GO TECH ENGINES FACTORY TEAM DRIVER
Caster Racing team member, Team terribles
I am looking to run this between the ESC and receiver. That way when I want to configure the receiver, I don't have to keep pulling the lead out of the receiver and plugging it into the programming device (castle link, etc).
Thoughts? This will be used with the speed passion ESC which still connects to the battery to power everything up, unlike castle link where you disconnect the battery.
Hey Cain, I don't have the part number for you but Airtronics does make a switch that looks just like that one but with all 3 wires in it. It was used with an adaptor that you could plug into the M8 & control your car via the switch without transmitting (for working on the car in the pits when someone was using your freqency in the old days). Should work.
I finished converting my friends Ofna buggy today. I just need to add a rear brace and it should be ready to race. I know this buggy might not be worth it, but hey, it only cost about $25 to convert. Now that it is converted, my friend doesn't have any reason not to come out and drive it!