I've got Losi 5000 wt in it now, and as it stands, the front tires turn into pizza cutters under heavy throttle. I don't think lighter fluid would help me.
I have a race tomorrow, and a brand new rear diff to try out. I'll play with my settings and see if I can't get it to stop endoing.
Hmmm... try dialing out the brakes until the truck won't lock up the tires or lift the rear tires. Then you can make a quick stab of the brakes to "set" the car and slow it slightly, before heading into a sweeper/corner. Without scrubbing too much speed or losing control. And it also helps when doing mid air corrections... so you don't accidentally go from nose high... to flipped on your lid. Seen that happen before
General comment, not R40... Properly set up brakes will let you go to full brake and the car will slow down pretty quick, but in a controlled manner and not sliding sideways or skidding the tires. If a car hammers the brakes and turns sideways or flips over, it has way too much brake.
I actually see most nitro racers have way too much brake on tap. There is no reason to ever need all fours to violently lock up, you know? But I see it all the time watching the nitro guys (sportsman class mostly )
R40Victim: what are you running for motor and ESC?
Castle 2200 Kv system, 4S 5000 25C, geared 13/48. I just got a Robinson 12T pinon to try tomorrow.
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5000 wt in a truggy?? You need at least 10k and going thicker will not only lessen front pizza cutters, but braking will be more efficient as well. I have 10k in my rc8 buggy and there are several people here that can verify that I have no lack of steering. What weight do you have in the front and rear diffs?
I know it seems awful low, but that's how I like it. Lots of on power steering, tons of turn in. This thing feels so nimble, its almost like a fat buggy. I'm running 2 in the back, and I've never rebuilt the front. I got this truck second hand, and never bothered to ask(it drives SO WELL, why would I change it!? ) This is an old Jammin CRT, if I put real heavy diff fluids in it, I'll hate it. My bro and another friend have exactly the same truck, and they're now where near as nimble as mine. I'm not willing to screw up the handling for a braking issue.
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your setup obviously isnt that kick ass if you still need brake bias to get around a corner.
I don't... like I said... 3 times.
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while running my e rc8 i also found that nitro setups dont work for electric setups.. yeah they get the job done but still lack in steering.
Again, I'm not having a steering problem, I'm having a "Tore up my rear diff internals for a second time" problem.
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Hmmm... try dialing out the brakes until the truck won't lock up the tires or lift the rear tires. Then you can make a quick stab of the brakes to "set" the car and slow it slightly, before heading into a sweeper/corner. Without scrubbing too much speed or losing control. And it also helps when doing mid air corrections... so you don't accidentally go from nose high... to flipped on your lid. Seen that happen before
This is basically my plan, to see how little brake I can get away with. Thanks for the suggestions.
on my RC8T, using the same motor setup and a heavier battery pack (4S 6000mah) pack I used 7-7-7- for diffs and had a whole lot of on power steering, almost too much.
Maybe you need to go with a setup that uses heavier oil, but balances out the split between the diff oil settings?
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Academy GV2 Pro 1/10 Scale Brushless Buggy
Academy STR4 Pro II 1/10 Scale Brushless Sedan
Ofna Hyper 9E 1/8 Scale Brushless Buggy
Guys, looking for an expert opinion. I run a 2550Kv motor on a large track using 4S. I am geared 13/44 and temps are ~150F. So far it has been cool on most days that I run but as the heat picks up here in CO I am concerned that heat of the motor might come close to becoming an issue.
My question to you is, "does it make sense to go up a tooth to keep the motor from spinning so many rpms?" Would this possibly help keep temps down a little?? I guess it is a load vs. rpm question--which is known to generate more heat?
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I know the pieces fit.
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Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
It goes both ways.. too much load = high temps and too much rpm's = high temps
Do you have the spreadsheet gearing calculator Tony P. made?
I do. 14T would put me in the 47.5 mpg range as opposed to 44.1. The car has more speed than I can use on the track right now. I have the EPA set to 90%. Maybe with the 14T is it will accelerate faster and may want to adjust punch control and throttle EPA further. Do you think this is an approach worth trying?
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I know the pieces fit.
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Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
I do. 14T would put me in the 47.5 mpg range as opposed to 44.1. The car has more speed than I can use on the track right now. I have the EPA set to 90%. Maybe with the 14T is it will accelerate faster and may want to adjust punch control and throttle EPA further. Do you think this is an approach worth trying?
47mph is way overgeared fir a race setup IMO.
Have you tried gearing down to 38-40mph? That's usually plenty of speed on any track. How does that effect the temps. If you haven't gone that route I would try that first.
Have you tried gearing down to 38-40mph? That's usually plenty of speed on any track. How does that effect the temps. If you haven't gone that route I would try that first.
Or look for a motor more in the 2000kv range.
I will try the 12T pinion first but will probably get a 14T and do some experimenting. I do not want to get a motor just yet but may buy the 2.5D if I find a good deal. Thanks for your help. Cheers!
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I know the pieces fit.
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Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
is the 2d in an 8ight? i ran mine with a 12t pinion and it had plenty of nuts, 13t was just stupid, fun tho! he he, i ran a 10 min race with the 13t on there 80 degrees outside and the motor was 160, put 3700 back in my pack, now i have the tekin 2650 and i wouldnt dare put the 13t back on lol, its a rocket with the 12t
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losi 8 T8 2250 "T" MMM
losi 8T 2.0 T8 1550 MMM
hobbycity zippy packs
try em out they arent bad!!!
rcproduct designs rocks!
on the 2650 wat is u driving time..how many minutes?
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Caster EX-1 PRO Tekin RX8/2050
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TEAM DRIVER FOR CASTER RACING USA/TEAM TERRIBLES/FASTLANE GRAPHIX
Well gentlemen, I have an update. Made some changes and had some good results. The first change I made, was reducing the braking power from 85% epa, to 75% epa. I had to significantly change the line I drive with the reduced brakes. It doesn't "Endo" as bad. It only lifts them slightly, and briefly, and I couldn't tell if the wheels still roll backwards.(didn't have enough people for a camera guy) But to get it to stop the issue entirely, would mean almost no brakes! I basically had to approach that section slower. The nitros can still push hard through there, but I pretty much made up for it everywhere else. I won the first heat, slung a pinion in the second, and finished 2nd in the main.
is the 2d in an 8ight? i ran mine with a 12t pinion and it had plenty of nuts, 13t was just stupid, fun tho! he he, i ran a 10 min race with the 13t on there 80 degrees outside and the motor was 160, put 3700 back in my pack, now i have the tekin 2650 and i wouldnt dare put the 13t back on lol, its a rocket with the 12t
Yeah, the 2D is in the Losi 8ight. We will likely be running 10-minutes as well so there may not be an issue. I am just getting prepared if the summer heat becomes an issue. I will get a 12T & a 14T and do some tuning. Finally learned how to use that timer on my radio so I can keep track of things. I will log temps and mAh usage. Cheers!
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I know the pieces fit.
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Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
r40 great you placed so well. now go into the monster max and put a little curve on the brakes and reduce to 70 percent. you should be set..
fyi if the rear wheels are lifting they are spinning backwards.
quick question are you running any sort of shock limiters?
another thing the reason why it seems so easy to drive is cause when you get on power around a corner it basically turns into a fwd truggy and the front spinning tires pull it around and it rotated nicely.. move up to 7k and youll have more acceleration coming out of a corner. but still have that fwd onpower feel
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High Velocity Racing
renos ragu. tire additives,castle creations,tekin
factory team t4 ,electric converted 3.3 revo
whoever said power isnt everything obviously doesnt own brushless/lipo power
rdub202's pit and marshall