I don't think anyone makes a sensored motor that's powerful enough. Most of the motors being used are originally meant for boats and airplanes. Castle Creations was a huge player in the big push to brushless in model airplanes, which don't utilize brakes (the same way cars do anyway) or reverse.
The sensored stuff came out specifically for the car scene, which is why it's all 10th scale stuff. The higher priority of braking and reverse, I believe, were the determining factor in Novak and LRP going with the sensored setup.
I used my posted setup yesterday and with a 1515 2.5F in my 8ight T I was having cogging issues with a 15 pinion. I went to a 13 and it pretty much disappeared. With a 13 I was right at or just a tad faster than the other Truggys. Gearing does have a pretty big impact on cogging! Hope this helps someone.
hippie: were you getting any cogging issues during your 10 minute run? It was posted earlier that it seemed to really bump up the heat when you get bad cogging.
If you have all the cooling and case modding done, you may want to gear down.
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I used by posted setup yesterday and with a 1515 2.5F in my 8ight T I was having cogging issues with a 15 pinion. I went to a 13 and it pretty much disappeared. With a 13 I was right at or just a tad faster than the other Truggys. Gearing does have a pretty big impact on cogging! Hope this helps someone.
We have a lot of E-1/8's around here that use the MM and this is what we've found too. That's why we recommend higher Kv motors combined with smaller pinions.
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hippie: were you getting any cogging issues during your 10 minute run? It was posted earlier that it seemed to really bump up the heat when you get bad cogging.
If you have all the cooling and case modding done, you may want to gear down.
NO cogging during the run at all . I did not have the case mod done at the time, but when i got home i did the case mod only around the side not on the bottom & i did not mount a second fan.
Well I finally had the time to get everyting wired up and it seems to be perfect so far. I will take it to the track tuesday morning to test run times an durability. Then I will race it next weekend. I am going to have some fun racing 10th scale today and work on the RC8 tonight.
I am running a 7xl and I have not seen any kind of cogging at all.
Has anyone tried a 4000kv or 5000kv motor with an 11.1V system ??
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My setup currently uses only 1 heavy duty fan. with the temp out here dropping, won't really get to see how how things get.
After you guys thermal (never done it before), does the system just shutdown till it cools off and everything is A-ok?
Yes thats what mine did, untill it cooled off & started right back up with no problems . Im sure if you thermal to many times it will evntually ruine your ESC.
hey im now looking to convert my 8ight electric now since i got my e-revo done. my main question is what is the difference between the neu motors like 1.5d and 1.5y?
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hey im now looking to convert my 8ight electric now since i got my e-revo done. my main question is what is the difference between the neu motors like 1.5d and 1.5y?
The d's are delta wound, the Y's are Wye wound.
general differences:
Delta - Use this type of termination when speed and performance are needed. Often motors above 2000kv are delta
WYE - Use ths termination for efficiency and torque. If going with around 1000kv, thish is likely your best method of termination.
I think most guys are opting for the d's, and going with higher KV motors (not the 1.5s) and smaller pinions. This seems to be the most consistent way to cope with cogging.
This may not get the reaction I am looking for, but could we rate the NUE based on your R&D? Which is the best to buy vs. the one not to buy (if there is one).
For 8 buggy, I am thinking they are ranked something like this....
1st..
1512 1.5d/f
1512 2.0d/f
1512 2.5d/f
1512 1.5y/f
I know this is a very subjective question, but it may point the newbies like me in the right direction, without delving so much in the the theory and why of things. Maybe I'm the only one.
I am posting this only because somtimes the most popular motor may not be available, and the 2nd in line is....... and it's very much do-able.
This may not get the reaction I am looking for, but could we rate the NUE based on your R&D? Which is the best to buy vs. the one not to buy (if there is one).
For 8 buggy, I am thinking they are ranked something like this....
1st..
1512 1.5d/f
1512 2.0d/f
1512 2.5d/f
1512 1.5y/f
I know this is a very subjective question, but it may point the newbies like me in the right direction, without delving so much in the the theory and why of things. Maybe I'm the only one.
I am posting this only because somtimes the most popular motor may not be available, and the 2nd in line is....... and it's very much do-able.
Very interesting question. Shouldn't we had the 1515 range?
I am about to make the leap to convert my Hobao Hyper ST 1:8 truggy to brushless & having read this thread & the useful FAQ that has been started & been in touch with my local Neu dealer (who advised that the 1515 2.5d motor would be the best - see attachment). However I have a couple more questions:
1) I have drilled out my MM in preparation for the two fans however I'm not sure of exactly what I need to do with regards a external BEC? I have two 2S 3250 7.4v Lipos which I was thinking of connecting in parallel to keep initial costs down will this work? I also plan to get a 4S 8000 at some point in the future & I therefore believe I need the external BEC, can anyone detail what I need to do to the MM ??
2) Will my existing Hobao diff with a Kyosho 46T spur gear do the job?
3) I am ordering 12 & 13T spurs are the Mod1's at rcmonster the only ones I can use on the Neu as I have loads of Robinsons off my MM 6900 ??
4) Dan at rcproductdesigns has advised all the EH7 parts will fit except the battery tray so have ordered the gorillamax straps & will see how I go. Is there anything else I need ?
Delta - Use this type of termination when speed and performance are needed. Often motors above 2000kv are delta
WYE - Use ths termination for efficiency and torque. If going with around 1000kv, thish is likely your best method of termination.
I think most guys are opting for the d's, and going with higher KV motors (not the 1.5s) and smaller pinions. This seems to be the most consistent way to cope with cogging.
I run a 1.5y though...
Actually from what I have read, Delta winds are for applications where precision is needed in forward and reverse, such as a robot arm for example and the wye wind is better for when you applications mainly needs one direction such as a RC car. Here is a link with perfect descriptions.
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