Any regulars on the thread here that will be at the Silverstate race this weekend? I'm hoping to get some info about what everyone ran and how things worked. I think some of the Tekno guys will be there...
i will be there it would be cool to see who is going off of this thread.I know most of the tekno guys and even meet up with them every once in a while.
__________________
ALL STATE DRIVESHAFT
TEKNO PERFORMANCE PARTS
Any advantages in using either one for racing?I am more inclined towards the mechanical braking because it allows the tuning of front rear brake bias.
But i am offset by the weight of an additional servo....
I heard previously about a myth that hard braking 'breaks' the esc?
It survived as well; just the ESC and the lid were charred.
Ok. I have to ask--what batts were you using? I was originally using the MMM default cut-off of 12V for 4S. Since I have been using a custom cut-off of 13.4V as recommended by many on this thread. I am using MaxAmps 4S 5000mAh packs.
__________________
---------------------
I know the pieces fit.
---------------------
Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
Any advantages in using either one for racing?I am more inclined towards the mechanical braking because it allows the tuning of front rear brake bias.
But i am offset by the weight of an additional servo....
I heard previously about a myth that hard braking 'breaks' the esc?
If you are coming from an electric background and are willing to tune the car to make it rotate, go with motor brakes. If from nitro, stick to mechanical. Its more about what you prefer at this point.
The older MMM esc's WERE dying with hard brakes...I personally smoked 4, mostly landing from a quad that had a hairpin right after it so I was landing full brakes. The newer ones seemed to have fixed that issue.
__________________
Panther Racing Tires - RCProductDesigns.com
Bulldawgrc.com - Teamtekin.com
Any advantages in using either one for racing?I am more inclined towards the mechanical braking because it allows the tuning of front rear brake bias.
But i am offset by the weight of an additional servo....
I heard previously about a myth that hard braking 'breaks' the esc?
This is always a topic of huge debate. You do not have to go back too far in this thread to understand what I mean. The weight of a servo is not going to slow you down--anybody who tells you otherwise needs to get a clue.
I personally do not use brakes often enough for the motor brake to do me any injustice. I can respect the wish to have brake bias but is easy to learn to drive without. Regardless of all that business I, personally, have not recognized any ill-effects on the ESC from using the motor brakes.
__________________
---------------------
I know the pieces fit.
---------------------
Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
Any advantages in using either one for racing?I am more inclined towards the mechanical braking because it allows the tuning of front rear brake bias.
But i am offset by the weight of an additional servo....
I heard previously about a myth that hard braking 'breaks' the esc?
If I m not wrong it's d motor n drive train that takes the stress, I prefer motor brake coz more space n lighter on my car.n 1 less thing to worry. U need a 3 channel tx also.
__________________
CRT RCM, slip diff, Neu 1515/3d, HW150
X2CR, slip diff, Neu 1512/2.5D/F, MM
" First 1/8 Ep racing team in singapore "
http://8scaleracers.web44.net
If I can get my camera working this week I can take photos of it. It works much better than the hudy and the inovative one that is made. You can use it at the track with a small crescent wrench. I made it from a conduit hangar and it's really simple. Anyone can make it.
Pictures would be awesome but I'd really like to know how you made one of these, maybe just instructions will be enough for us if it's simple? You can find a pic of a conduit hangar and other parts on the web then we can visualize your masterpiece and build one ourselves.
I can't stand paying $50 + dollars for tools that you can make yourself or buy at walmart for $3.
For those who are die hard single battery guys, I think we might finally go ahead with a single pack version pretty soon. The factory has been busy with a lot of projects lately but I think it's time....
Dustin,
Would this consist of the same chassis with a few extra motor mount holes on the other side to allow for the mount to be placed to the right rear? I would be neat to see the chassis set up for either battery tray config. The car could be sold "as is" with the addition of just a single tray to the kit along with the twin trays. That way the user can select what config. he or she wants to go with depending on what batteries they have already. Now that would be a cool option that no one else gives you.
Any advantages in using either one for racing?I am more inclined towards the mechanical braking because it allows the tuning of front rear brake bias.
But i am offset by the weight of an additional servo....
I heard previously about a myth that hard braking 'breaks' the esc?
I too appreciate what brake bias can do for an 8th scale. But so far, most people can get away with using the motor. I've been doing pretty well with my truggy using the motor brake, but my buggy is another story. It's "OK", but my nitro version handles tight turns much better. I pretty much set the car up loose so I can get it around the track faster, it's just unstable, and hard to keep under control now. The truggy on the other hand, is so big, that it's easy to manipulate it around the track, everything happens in slow-mo. The problem I'm having with it now, is I keep tearing up diff internals.
When I hit the brakes at the end of the straight section, to bring it back down from high speed, the rear end lifts OFF THE GROUND and the rear wheels actually spin BACKWARDS for a second or two, then BAM, slam rolling forward again. It's no wonder my newly rebuilt rear diff, is already clicking and getting hung every rotation or two. So I'm considering going back to mechanical brakes for just that reason.
I never really noticed that much of a runtime difference between motor brakes and mechanical brakes when comparing my RC8 with the RCPD conversion and FMLinero's Tekno RC8. We both dumped our vehicles about the same time at one race, both using the same ESC and motor, and batteries in the 6000mah range (me a PQ6000XP Pack, him a Maxamps 6500mah Pack, both 4S).
Looks like some of those hardcased 4S lipo packs are in stock at RC Lipos. Anyone else know of hardcased lipos in stock at other places?
__________________
Academy GV2 Pro 1/10 Scale Brushless Buggy
Academy STR4 Pro II 1/10 Scale Brushless Sedan
Ofna Hyper 9E 1/8 Scale Brushless Buggy
I too appreciate what brake bias can do for an 8th scale. But so far, most people can get away with using the motor. I've been doing pretty well with my truggy using the motor brake, but my buggy is another story. It's "OK", but my nitro version handles tight turns much better. I pretty much set the car up loose so I can get it around the track faster, it's just unstable, and hard to keep under control now. The truggy on the other hand, is so big, that it's easy to manipulate it around the track, everything happens in slow-mo. The problem I'm having with it now, is I keep tearing up diff internals.
When I hit the brakes at the end of the straight section, to bring it back down from high speed, the rear end lifts OFF THE GROUND and the rear wheels actually spin BACKWARDS for a second or two, then BAM, slam rolling forward again. It's no wonder my newly rebuilt rear diff, is already clicking and getting hung every rotation or two. So I'm considering going back to mechanical brakes for just that reason.
Why don't you reduce your brake percentage?
__________________
It's a new day! :)
PLUG IT IN, TURN IT ON, DRIVE!!! MAN, I LOVE ELECTRIC.
Similar Threads