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Old 03-22-2009, 05:07 PM   #15751
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Some brushless action:

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Old 03-22-2009, 05:49 PM   #15752
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Has anyone had their MMM v3 quit on them? My ESC just stoppped working for no apparent reason yesterday. I heard some people have had issues with the on/off switch and and have fixed this by passing it. I tried this but it didn't fix the problem. I wasn't getting any power to the reciever at all. Will Castle cover a repair under warranty? HELP!
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:02 PM   #15753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superlapS15 View Post
Thanks Glassdoctor! Hopefully the motor can be salvaged.
I had this motor all you have to do is slam the shaft straight down on a hard surface like concrete and it will pop right off and when you put it back together just use some shoe goo to put it back together.It worked for me i ran it for another 3 months..
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:46 PM   #15754
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Almost done.. just waiting on new diff bearings.

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Old 03-22-2009, 06:50 PM   #15755
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Originally Posted by Slokomo View Post
Has anyone had their MMM v3 quit on them? My ESC just stoppped working for no apparent reason yesterday. I heard some people have had issues with the on/off switch and and have fixed this by passing it. I tried this but it didn't fix the problem. I wasn't getting any power to the reciever at all. Will Castle cover a repair under warranty? HELP!
I had that happen to me several times. It is most likely the bec on the mmm and castle should replace it for no charge.
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:04 PM   #15756
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I had that happen to me several times. It is most likely the bec on the mmm and castle should replace it for no charge.
Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2009, 07:10 PM   #15757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim View Post
Some brushless action:

+ YouTube Video
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Nice video. I see some broken rear hubs over the course of the season on that board at the end of that straight.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slokomo View Post
Has anyone had their MMM v3 quit on them? My ESC just stoppped working for no apparent reason yesterday. I heard some people have had issues with the on/off switch and and have fixed this by passing it. I tried this but it didn't fix the problem. I wasn't getting any power to the reciever at all. Will Castle cover a repair under warranty? HELP!
They should. Send it in to them.
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:24 PM   #15758
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Originally Posted by SuperEk4 View Post
As promised a review of Hobbywing 150 amp car esc.

I use it in the turf city Singapore race for nitro buggy n truggy. It burnt, the whole tent smell of the burnt electronics.

I ran 2 heats 10 mins each (temp was 35plus degrees) miss the first to avoid the wet track. All went well was able to get 11 laps in ten mins. Prepared for the 30 mins main, downgraded to a medusa 1600kv motor n plug in a 6s 5000 zippy punch was set at 4, the truck still wheelie at will. Used my program card set the punch to 1. N tried the car again.

Switched on the esc gave out purplish thick smoke, temp went up to 80degrees wires were hot.

I immediately unplug my batt n check wats wrong. The esc caps all burnt. Reason unknown. Emailed hobbywing no reply 2 address bounce back some more.

Let's wait a few days n see wat they say. Was a sad ending. It was a 30min main n I hv the advantage to b in top 3
I thought the Hobbywing/Speed passion ESC was a 4S max unit - could explain why the magic smoke came out when you plugged a 6S pack in.
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:26 PM   #15759
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Originally Posted by rearviewmirror View Post
Almost done.. just waiting on new diff bearings.

Looks good, I would shorten up those motor wires some though.


your also gonna want to reinforce the radio tray in the front between the servo and the rx box because they always break right there.

Make sure you have velcro on the battery and tray otherwise the battery will smash through the front of the box the first time you lawn dart it.
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:50 PM   #15760
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Originally Posted by bradfox2 View Post
Looks good, I would shorten up those motor wires some though.


your also gonna want to reinforce the radio tray in the front between the servo and the rx box because they always break right there.

Make sure you have velcro on the battery and tray otherwise the battery will smash through the front of the box the first time you lawn dart it.
Shorten the motor wires? Really? I could probably take 1/2-3/4 of an inch out of them, but is it really necessary? I definitely plan on putting a strip velcro on all battery packs. What do you mean reinforce the radio tray? Where exactly does it break?
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:09 PM   #15761
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My speed run "buggy"













Hopefully good for 89mph (140km/h)

Motor - Teckno Neu 1515 2200kv

ESC - CC MMM

Battery - 6S 20c 5000mah

gearing - 25/46

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Old 03-22-2009, 09:16 PM   #15762
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Originally Posted by bradfox2 View Post
Looks good, I would shorten up those motor wires some though.


your also gonna want to reinforce the radio tray in the front between the servo and the rx box because they always break right there.

Make sure you have velcro on the battery and tray otherwise the battery will smash through the front of the box the first time you lawn dart it.
I dont see any reason to shorten the motor wires. Its not going to make any difference.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:19 PM   #15763
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Originally Posted by rearviewmirror View Post
Shorten the motor wires? Really? I could probably take 1/2-3/4 of an inch out of them, but is it really necessary? I definitely plan on putting a strip velcro on all battery packs. What do you mean reinforce the radio tray? Where exactly does it break?


Looks cleaner, less noise, better for electronics.



look at attachment for reinforcing. I use a zip tie around the entire radio tray and servo but you can try some carbon fiber or fiberglass or something where i circled, because that is where the tray WILL break. I have broken two there, and friends have broken a bunch more.
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electric-1-8th-scale-conversion-kits-322200971528pm_0001-vi.jpg  
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:31 AM   #15764
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Had a spot of bad luck with my esc. Was pulling it off the mount in my buggy which is just velcro and a cable tie. So anyway I just snipped the cable tie and pulled on the esc to lift it off the velcro as I always do when the case popped apart in my hand and basically totalled the esc. Not sure if I had a good grip on the bottom half of the case but as it ripped apart a component which is hard against the side of the case dropped off the board and the switch wire ripped out the solder tab on the board. Felt like an idiot I tell you. Sheeeez man. That's the stupidist way to total an esc I've ever heard of. Why me? Hope they'll beleive my story. Imagine the tech guy reading the explanation of the problem "I was only cleaning it when it happened." ....... (Technician) "Yeah sure, that's what they all say".
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:53 AM   #15765
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Originally Posted by pullinteef View Post
The pinion size / punch theory is a myth with brushless motors It will usually have more punch with a bigger pinion if your batteries can push the juice. On the other hand, gearing for the appropriate top speed is still a good idea
thats what i was getting at, with a bigger pinion the tires will spin faster, sooner, resulting in more torque
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