Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits. - Page 102

Bobby Gately · 10-01-2007, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IR13

Better send some spare parts with the RC8 conversion

hearing people are breaking and loosing hinge pins like crazy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lbz34

I was going to buy the rc8 but after looking at some of the components i decided to stay with the losi. Some of the rc8 stuff looked like it might be vulnerable to everything. The losi is a tank.

Thats funny... remember when the losi 8ight was new and everyone was talking about how easy it was to break it ??? also you have to remember that ALOT of the people that are getting the first RC8s to the stores are not going to be the most experianced racers, so they will be much more likely to break there cars as soon as they hit the track.......

Besides once you see how bad ass the conversion is, you are going to want one even more...

chewiefttc4 · 10-01-2007, 08:35 PM

bob you got pm!!!!!

glassdoctor · 10-01-2007, 08:37 PM

I almost walked out of the LHS with an RC8 today, but I resisted the temptation. Someday...

As for the RC8... a local who I trust got to drive one last weekend at an RC Pro Series race and he said it's MONEY!! Says it's very light and nimble, but still very planted. The Losi is light and nimble but you can't call it planted. Sounds very very good. (This guy has wheeled several cars this summer including Losi and Jammin)

markhat250 · 10-02-2007, 09:02 AM

I recieved my motor today but it was the Nue 151 1.5d/S. Would this be fine or do I need the finned? Mike at RC-Monster suggested that a finned, and running a small 10T pinion may possibly interfere with hitting something, being that the whole motor is sitting closer to the spur.

Any thoughts or experience, or should I just stick with the finned? DJ1978, you run a 10T right?

Thanks!!

Cain · 10-02-2007, 09:30 AM

i think its pretty standard practice to just wait at least 2 months or so when a new vehicle comes out if you want a lot of the issues that come up to be addressed. Being an early adopter, you get to deal also with the issues that usually are fixed with running changes, that can at times not be sent out to you by the manufacturer for free. But, its always cool to have something new when it works good!

My liposack did come in. It looks smaller than was I thought it would be but should be plenty big for my pack. I hope to get to put the whole charging / balancing thing to test today or tomorrow.

One thing I am curious about. How do you guys know how much juice is in a battery if it is not fully (to what is safe) discharged and then recharged to see how much you put back in?

happywing · 10-02-2007, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markhat250

I recieved my motor today but it was the Nue 151 1.5d/S. Would this be fine or do I need the finned? Mike at RC-Monster suggested that a finned, and running a small 10T pinion may possibly interfere with hitting something, being that the whole motor is sitting closer to the spur.

Any thoughts or experience, or should I just stick with the finned? DJ1978, you run a 10T right?

Thanks!!

Well, it will save you a little grinding. To run a 10T with a finned motor, one or two of the fins need to be ground down a tiny bit. It's not a big deal. I'd prefer the finned version, but I've never tried a smooth. Put a nice heat sink on it and it will probably be just fine.

plamski · 10-02-2007, 09:52 AM

In my Hyperion charger I can see exactly the V or how many % are left on the batery .You have to attach power cord data link and balancer

DJ1978 · 10-02-2007, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markhat250

I recieved my motor today but it was the Nue 151 1.5d/S. Would this be fine or do I need the finned? Mike at RC-Monster suggested that a finned, and running a small 10T pinion may possibly interfere with hitting something, being that the whole motor is sitting closer to the spur.

Any thoughts or experience, or should I just stick with the finned? DJ1978, you run a 10T right?

Thanks!!

We have no experience running a smooth canned motor. With a 10T and smaller you do have to trim the fins with a dremel for clearance on the EL8. But not much.
I run an 11/46 set up.
we have been concerned that with a smooth motor you would not get enough heat dissapation. I have not been willing to spend that much money on a smooth canned motor only to find that they over heat or that you have to rig it with a bunch of fans just to get it to stay cool.
I would recommend just sticking with a finned motor.

markhat250 · 10-02-2007, 10:07 AM

As for the finned vs. smooth, I think both of your comments are right on, but I figured I'de ask first. It's just that I have it here. But me too, I don't want to spend this much money to find out it doesn't cut it. So I am returning it.

Thanks AGAIN for your speedy wise comments!!

Stealth_RT · 10-02-2007, 03:56 PM

If you are running such a hot motor that you need to gear down to a 10/11 pinion, I'd strongly recommend getting the 8T truggy gears for the F/R trannies and running a larger 15/16 pinion. Actually, that'd apply to any brand buggy that has a truggy equivilant that you could use the tranny gears from in your buggy.

hippie · 10-02-2007, 05:42 PM

Does any one know anybody that has a 1512-1.5d in stock ?. Thank's

IR13 · 10-02-2007, 09:36 PM

I can safely say I never changed a part on my car do to breaking it and I have had it for exactly a year. Even when it was a nitro car i never blew up a servo. Lot of it was just setup errors not the car actually breaking. As for the Rc8 is Ryan Mayfield not an experience driver? I've heard he breaks an upper steering plate almost every outing. I have a source that races with on a weekly basis. Im not trying Say Losi is better but team ae has to figure out the problems with the hinge pins and that upper steering plate. I believe king headz will be coming out with parts soon then we can see how good this car is

Bobby Gately · 10-02-2007, 10:07 PM

Has anyone tried any of the Lehner motors ?? i am going to need another motor for my truggy now that I am building the RC8

DJ1978 · 10-03-2007, 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealth_RT

If you are running such a hot motor that you need to gear down to a 10/11 pinion, I'd strongly recommend getting the 8T truggy gears for the F/R trannies and running a larger 15/16 pinion. Actually, that'd apply to any brand buggy that has a truggy equivilant that you could use the tranny gears from in your buggy.

With a full summer of racing hard... We have had NO drive train failures that I know of.
Other drivers can pipe in with their experiences.
I have damaged one spur gear and snapped a front CVD. That is it with my EH7.
The EL8's have been very reliable.

hippie · 10-03-2007, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby Gately

Has anyone tried any of the Lehner motors ?? i am going to need another motor for my truggy now that I am building the RC8

Bob alot of people @ rc-monster have used the lehner motors with very good success. They are hard to get from my understanding as there is only one supplier in the US, & they have 4mm motor shafts instead of 5mm. you would need to get a bore reducer from rc-monster. They are 2 pole motors & would work with no problem at all with the MM. The 1940 series is very popular on 4s & the 1950 on 5s. The 1940 7 or 8 turn seem to bee popular in the buggys.

These stats are with a 1940 7 t on 4s.

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 46
Pinion Tooth Count: 13
Total Voltage: 14.8
Motor KV: 2239
Tire Diameter (inches): 4.43
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 50
Motor coil Ω: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.54 : 1
Total Ratio: 11.70414 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 13.92 inches (353.5mm)
Total Motor Speed: 33137.2 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 37.31 MPH (59.94km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 2.52mph/V (4.05kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 2239
Motor Torque: 0.16 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 1.84 ft-lbs