Thankx for the info Cain,
What do you think about the tekin Rc8 coming out? I was thinking about the MMM3 or that one. I will find out about the packs this weekend, I am pretty sure soft packs are ok to run, but I will double check.
I was looking at the chargers, I looked at the duo 2 and that e-station pc6-10. I am looking to get a good reliable charger that will last me a while, were you saying that the due could charge multi packs at the same time? I didn't quite get what you meant by if your looking about multiple packs check out the duo 2.
The Hyperion 610I Duo 2 can charge two packs at the same time up to 6S lipo. However right now the Hyperion 610I Net is on sale at a lot of places and you can get two of them for the same price as a Duo 2.
I m disappointed with castle, I sent my mmmv3 for repair they did a check & found 3 caps blown. They will give me a new one but warned me that if it happened again they won't change it again.
The reason they gave was either my zippy batts r not good or my plugs are lousy.
I think we all hv no problem with our zippys or 6mm plugs.
I even raced with my replacement hobbywing 100amps plane esc with no problems.
I m disappointed with their answer & may sell away my mmmv3 for a more reliable esc.
Ps I changed d esc twice already
__________________
CRT RCM, slip diff, Neu 1515/3d, HW150
X2CR, slip diff, Neu 1512/2.5D/F, MM
" First 1/8 Ep racing team in singapore "
http://8scaleracers.web44.net
Thankx for the info Cain,
What do you think about the tekin Rc8 coming out? I was thinking about the MMM3 or that one. I will find out about the packs this weekend, I am pretty sure soft packs are ok to run, but I will double check.
I was looking at the chargers, I looked at the duo 2 and that e-station pc6-10. I am looking to get a good reliable charger that will last me a while, were you saying that the due could charge multi packs at the same time? I didn't quite get what you meant by if your looking about multiple packs check out the duo 2.
Thanks
Josh
Don't know anything on the tekin yet. Based on passed experiences, Tekin stuff should be REALLY good.
As for chargers, I got the duo 1, and love it. Its available for less than duo II for sure. I don't need the discharge feature that duo II has.
Its a shame if castle is taking that stance. If they are not stating on the packaging that certain packs can't be used, I wonder if that would fly legally.
__________________
Academy GV2 Pro 1/10 Scale Brushless Buggy
Academy STR4 Pro II 1/10 Scale Brushless Sedan
Ofna Hyper 9E 1/8 Scale Brushless Buggy
Ahh, got you, I read the post wrong about the brakes, yes the mechanical brakes would be awsome with direct drive
Cool, so the sensorless MMM is good for the bigger vehicles like the 1/8th and the MM is good for 1/10th. Can I ask what the difference between sensorless ESC and a Sensored. So you would want to run Sensorless Motors in 1/8th scales? Just curios to the do's and don'ts and pro's and cons.
A sensored system, motor & ESC, can monitor temperature and the exact location of the shaft. What this allows, to my knowledge, is an auto cut-off if the motor or ESC gets to hot. Also, by knowing the exact location of the motor shaft a sensored system will not "cog" or hesitate during slows starts. My recommendation would be not to worry about a sensored system for a 1/8th scale buggy. I believe you can run a sensorless motor with a sensored ESC but not the other way around (I need to check those facts).
As I mentioned, the MMM is sensorless as are most of the motors people run in 1/8th. Tekin, I believe, is coming out with a sensored system but has not been tried and trued. Novak is another--I love my Novak system in my 1/10th super but will leave it at that.
If I were starting out I would be tempted to get the CC 2650Kv system. If you plan to race I would probably consider the Neu 1512/2.5D/F. You can not go wrong with a Neu. They are harder to get and more expensive but are amazing. They run cool and are surprisingly efficient. However, if you are trying to maintain a budget the Medusa with a Zippy pack or two will make you grin all the same .
__________________
---------------------
I know the pieces fit.
---------------------
Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
I guess I am going to pick up a brushless system for an electric and get a charger, Tekno does not make a conversion kit for the MBX5 just the truggy version. I am gonna wait for the tekin to come out and listen to some reviews and decide what I am gonna do. I may sell some of my rollers and get a new one to convert. Not sure, but I will def. get some ideas at the track this weekend.
Thanks for that info danger, that explains alot. Seems to be alot of options and it helps alot to get some food info and opinions to help me narrow down mine.
Its a shame if castle is taking that stance. If they are not stating on the packaging that certain packs can't be used, I wonder if that would fly legally.
Yeah, mayb they shld but I tell u their failure rate is so high n for wat reasons we dun know.
__________________
CRT RCM, slip diff, Neu 1515/3d, HW150
X2CR, slip diff, Neu 1512/2.5D/F, MM
" First 1/8 Ep racing team in singapore "
http://8scaleracers.web44.net
I believe you can run a sensorless motor with a sensored ESC but not the other way around (I need to check those facts).
As I mentioned, the MMM is sensorless as are most of the motors people run in 1/8th. Tekin, I believe, is coming out with a sensored system but has not been tried and trued.
Normally, you can run a sensored motor with a sensorless esc as the esc simply does not use the sensors in the motor.
The RX8 from tekin automatically runs any brushless motor as a sensorless motor unless you plug in the sensor harness. Then the sensors are used at start up and low speed to completely eliminate cogging.
__________________
Panther Racing Tires - RCProductDesigns.com
Bulldawgrc.com - Teamtekin.com
Its a shame if castle is taking that stance. If they are not stating on the packaging that certain packs can't be used, I wonder if that would fly legally.
I can tell you there is no way in hell I would let it go if it happened to me There are no battery requirements on the package, and on an insert in the box it says "We strongly suggest using 4,000 mAh 20c (continous) or larger LiPo cells". There are no requirements for a specific battery, and even by their suggestion the Zippy 5,000mAh 20c continous batteries are fine.
SuperEk - did they send that notice to you in writing or was that a phone conversation?
I can tell you there is no way in hell I would let it go if it happened to me There are no battery requirements on the package, and on an insert in the box it says "We strongly suggest using 4,000 mAh 20c (continous) or larger LiPo cells". There are no requirements for a specific battery, and even by their suggestion the Zippy 5,000mAh 20c continous batteries are fine.
SuperEk - did they send that notice to you in writing or was that a phone conversation?
you have a very valid point there.
i does state that in the manual
__________________
Losi 8T 1.5 -converted with TEKNO kit, MMM , 2200kv neu castle
Losi 8B 1.5 -converted with TEKNO kit, MMM , 2200kv TEKNO Lektron.
BLITZ - Sidewinder 5700kv
AE 18R -stock on lipo
Sponsors:To slow to have any LOL
teeforb...putting this reply in laymen's terms so everyone can understand the situation. Please don't take it as talking down.
There is a minimum capacity rating with our combos due to a phenomenon called ripple current. Ripple current occurs when a battery cannot put out enough current to satisfy the power system's demands. The ESC is switching on and off up to 7k times per second. Every time the ESC switches on and off (duty cycle) the amperage being drawn from the batteries does the same (the current/voltage swings dramatically), and the capacitors on the ESC are in charge of smoothing this voltage/current out for the ESC...the capacitors are the first line of defense for the ESC. If the batteries cannot put out enough current to fill the capacitors during the time when the ESC is switching on and off, the capacitors get hot...they can get so hot that the electrolytic fluid inside the capacitors boils and the capacitor fails. If this happens the ESC is left open to those huge current/voltag swings, and the ESC fails. This is why it is so important to use batteries that will sufficiently supply enough current and voltage for the system you are using. The absolute minimum for our systems is 4000mah and 20C continuous discharge rating. The higher those #'s are the better. My "worst" pack is 5000mah and 20C discharge...everything other than that is minimum 45000mah and 30C. The higher the C rating the lower the resistance of the battery. What this means is that if you had two batteries with the same capacity but different C ratings, the battery with the higher C rating will not be working nearly as hard as the lower C rating battery...as a result it will stay cooler than the lower C rated battery under the same amp load. The lower the battery temperature at the end of the run the more cycles you will get out of the battery, and the higher the voltage will be under load (so you get more punch off the line, and higher top speed). Don't cheap out on the batteries...the system is only as good as the batteries...you should use the best packs you can find...always. Yes, they may cost a little more than the lower C rated batteries, but they'll last longer and put out more power.
teeforb...you'd have to put the batteries under a high amp load to find out if the packs are sufficient for the application. Easy way to know your batteries will handle it is to buy the best you can get. That's about it when it comes down to the real world. Do NOT trust off brand battery ratings...heard the horror stories a million times. As long as you buy the packs from a major distributor that is trusted in the industry, buy at least 4000mah pack, and they have a 20C cont. discharge rating as we recommend you'll be fine. Other than the 2 5000mah 20C packs I have everything else is 4500mah and 30C or higher.
__________________
* Mugen MBX6T -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1700kv System on 5S
* Losi E-8ight-B 1.8 -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1900kv System on 5S
* Mugen EMBX5 Prospec -- Castle Creation MMM 2200kv System on 4S
* Xray M18 -- Castle something on 2S
* EMBX6 in HD action and E-8ight-T 2.0 in HD action: just YOUTUBE(teeforb)
The Zippy packs are very rectangular (not a lot of wires and shrink wrap on the ends). I mention this because the tray walls are very low allowing a lot of longer packs to slip in and clear them. The pack you are looking at is 160mm x 51mm wide which is 1mm wider than our tray and a bit longer with very square ends. I've seen it done though with the back wall cut out.
This pack (Zippy FlightMax 30C/5s/5000) definitely fits and it should be a better pack for slightly less money.
wow, thanks for the heads up. i'll save modding a well designed kit, and save $
I am not an EE as probably Joe or his colleagues but I do have to question this statement: "If the batteries cannot put out enough current to fill the capacitors during the time when the ESC is switching on and off, the capacitors get hot...they can get so hot that the electrolytic fluid inside the capacitors boils and the capacitor fails."
It would seem to me whether or not the batts can not fill the caps that the ESC so deserves it will get hot. If the ESC requires a duty cycle @ 7k per second I would say the thing could get hot regardless of the amount of current supplied.
Maybe I am reading this incorrectly but why would you need to bounce 0's & 1's at that rate? Maybe things have changed and is why the latest version of the MMM experiences less failures. I do know this--I certainly can design a better enclosure (casing) and I only charge $120 per hour .
__________________
---------------------
I know the pieces fit.
---------------------
Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
I'm looking to get back into running my r/c's and I wanted to ask anyone which conversion kit would you suggest to convert an ST-RR? I've looked through a lot of pages here and I think the only one I saw that was specificly for the ST-RR was the kit made by rcproductdesigns...is that correct? They seem a little expensive for what you get?? I don't think Teckno or Novak make a specific kit? I also saw that castle creations have some conversions coming out but no release date has been set yet I guess.
I've already picked up a castle monster ESC and 2200 combo kit...now I just need the conversion kit. Any help and suggestions would be awesome! Thank you!
I can tell you there is no way in hell I would let it go if it happened to me There are no battery requirements on the package, and on an insert in the box it says "We strongly suggest using 4,000 mAh 20c (continous) or larger LiPo cells". There are no requirements for a specific battery, and even by their suggestion the Zippy 5,000mAh 20c continous batteries are fine.
SuperEk - did they send that notice to you in writing or was that a phone conversation?
I hv the email will post up tonite
__________________
CRT RCM, slip diff, Neu 1515/3d, HW150
X2CR, slip diff, Neu 1512/2.5D/F, MM
" First 1/8 Ep racing team in singapore "
http://8scaleracers.web44.net
There are no battery requirements on the package, and on an insert in the box it says "We strongly suggest using 4,000 mAh 20c (continous) or larger LiPo cells". There are no requirements for a specific battery, and even by their suggestion the Zippy 5,000mAh 20c continous batteries are fine.
.
Similar Threads