So you still feel for 6S on our track that the 3300 will make 20 mins? or should I shove the 3900 in there.
You will probably need the 3900 to make a 20 minute main if you are actually racing. If you are just putzing around on the track, you will probably get 20 minutes on a 3300. Practicing and bashing around in the street does not burn nearly as much as full on racing. I can make a 20 minute main with the 5s 5000 zippy pack.
I know this is a common question: "What diff fluid do you run on your electric conversion?" I performed a search but was unsuccessful locating this information.
A guy at our local city track who drive a nitro truggy said it looks like I could use a little more bite in my front end. I agree--our track is quite "loamy" and could benefit from a little more traction up front.
I believe the stock fluid is 5-7-3 in the Losi 8ight nitro buggy kit I converted. My question is should I go up to 10k in the center and/or should I go up to 7k up front?
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Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
I know this is a common question: "What diff fluid do you run on your electric conversion?" I performed a search but was unsuccessful locating this information.
A guy at our local city track who drive a nitro truggy said it looks like I could use a little more bite in my front end. I agree--our track is quite "loamy" and could benefit from a little more traction up front.
I believe the stock fluid is 5-7-3 in the nitro buggy kit I converted. My question is should I go up to 10k in the center and/or should I go up to 7k up front?
Each brand car is a little different, as are brand oils, but I run 10-10-5 and i like it. Very punchy but not out of control.
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Mugen eMBX6, Tekno NEU 1515/1y, Mamba Max
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edumaketd.....do you really do about 6 warmup laps? the next time you race why dont you and jhautz try this a couple of times. just put your cars on the track with no warmup at all and see what you pull strictly in racing mode.
then to take it further let one of those local pros wheel your cars for a round and see what happens.
my guess is your mah per minute will be higher than what you have experienced in the past, and when a high level driver takes your car and runs 2 laps faster than you do in the same 5 minutes your mah per minute will be much higher again.
also you and jhautz are running 5s so when you post numbers you need to remember to add about 20% to your mah per min to equate what a 4s system would get.
Both of us made the A main last night in truggy at a trophy race with a pretty nice turn out, so we arent exactly putzing it around the track. Yes, a "Pro" might burn more, and someone that is very heavy handed on the throtle might as well. We are both fairly smooth drivers and try to be fast without wasting to much power.
Of course wouldnt you know, both of us broke in the main so I couldnt tell what kind of power I used vs the week before on the old layout.
As far as lettting a top driver race it, one of the guys thats always finishing in the top 5 at our track is racing an electric 8ight and runs it on a 4s 5000 I believe. He doesnt have an issues making run time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed_Freak_039
So you still feel for 6S on our track that the 3300 will make 20 mins? or should I shove the 3900 in there.
Why do you need 20 minutes? The A mains are only 15 minutes.
I know this is a common question: "What diff fluid do you run on your electric conversion?" I performed a search but was unsuccessful locating this information.
A guy at our local city track who drive a nitro truggy said it looks like I could use a little more bite in my front end. I agree--our track is quite "loamy" and could benefit from a little more traction up front.
I believe the stock fluid is 5-7-3 in the Losi 8ight nitro buggy kit I converted. My question is should I go up to 10k in the center and/or should I go up to 7k up front?
In the old kit, it was 5-7-2 I believe the 8ight E came with 5-5-2. That's the setup I switched to on my nitro, and when I rebuilt my 8ight E's center diff, that's what I went with. However, on my tight, technical track, I might go down to 3 in the front, so I can have more off power steering. Entering the corners is where my 8ight E pushes, because I have no brake bias.
I drove a friend's 8ight E with the smart diff in the front. It has better turn in than my car, so I might just have to get one now.
Chad Bradley used the new Tekno RC Lektron square can motors along with the Tekno RC 1/8th Elektri-Clutch and full mechanical brakes. With absolutely no practice time on the car (we just got the proto built and drove out on Wednesday), Chad put up the TQ. Then did it again in round 2. The win capped it off A good weekend for 1/8th Electric as a lot of positive things were being said about the class.
Special thanks go out to Joey (The Dirt) and Kenny Ernst for hosting the class. Next year should see a lot of entries. We'll be there.
In the old kit, it was 5-7-2 I believe the 8ight E came with 5-5-2. That's the setup I switched to on my nitro, and when I rebuilt my 8ight E's center diff, that's what I went with. However, on my tight, technical track, I might go down to 3 in the front, so I can have more off power steering. Entering the corners is where my 8ight E pushes, because I have no brake bias.
I drove a friend's 8ight E with the smart diff in the front. It has better turn in than my car, so I might just have to get one now.
So, as I am gathering--and this makes most sense--changing your diff fluid is not going to aid in traction. The idea behind changing the fluid is to manipulate how the diff behaves when entering and exiting turns.
Correct me if I am wrong, but a thicker (i.e. more viscous) fluid will slow the diff and control the immediate surge of power when the driver applies the juice. Does this sound correct?
We have a few wide sweeping turns that are berms. The trick (I think) is to carry speed into and throughout the turn and exit smoothly w/o having to punch too hard. So, if I have to take a guess I would like something that is not too thick. Seems like stock fluids in the Losi buggies are 7, 5, and 2k CP viscosity. I presume Losi has the resources to do a good deal of research and have great drivers to offer feedback. I will make the assumption that the 5-5-2 in the 8ight-e is a good place for me to start!
It gets a little convoluted because is it the fluid in the diffs I should tune or all those options in the speed controller. Punch control? Timing?? And what on earth is EPA???
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I know the pieces fit.
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Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
Hey since I see more diff questions/runtime questions coming up I thought I post my recent findings in my 2 week old RC8T.
First of all the RC8T with the Castle 2200KV on 5s is an absolute BEAST!!! This thing absolutely flies! I've had two people already try to direct me off of the track and to the airport... Nitro guys are like "are you sure that motor isn't too much..." I'm like "hell no!!!" I absolutley love it!
Runtime, with my speed control set to "low" timing and 16/50 gearing:
Poly RC 5100, 4s 20 min runtime, normal driving, such as racing conditions
Maxamps 5250 5s - 20 min runtime, but that is driving very aggressively with front wheels skyward most of the time, I could probably squeeze a few more minutes out of it, if I cut down on some showboating, but what fun is that! Motor temps have never gone over 130 with either pack, MMM around 110, and batteries around 90 - 100.
For my diff I started with 5-5-5 and couldn't keep the front wheels on the ground. Now I'm using 7-10-5 and it is a huge improvement, and it still wheelies sometimes but they usually go pizza cutter and stay close to the ground. I think 15k or 20k in the center will help put all 4 tires power to the ground a little better, and will be trying that soon. The only problem I'm still having is I can barely keep the tires on the rims and I have to reglue them often...Oh well!
Congrats to Tekno. I know a guy here who runs your stuff in an RC8 and an RC8T now and really likes it.
As for the runtimes you experienced edumakated as others have stated not too suprised. Out here, we have some high speed tracks with very low traction, so you can scrub a lot of mah because of it when you gear it to be consistent with nitro speed down the straight.
For the RC8T, I had a diff setup fo 7-7-7 and that worked good, but did some pizza cutter action down the straight. went with 10K center, but same diff setup front and rear as it did feel good so far other than that. My pizza cutter action could be from the tires too, Blue Goosebumps custom mounted to LPRs.
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Academy GV2 Pro 1/10 Scale Brushless Buggy
Academy STR4 Pro II 1/10 Scale Brushless Sedan
Ofna Hyper 9E 1/8 Scale Brushless Buggy
Hey since I see more diff questions/runtime questions coming up I thought I post my recent findings in my 2 week old RC8T.
First of all the RC8T with the Castle 2200KV on 5s is an absolute BEAST!!! This thing absolutely flies! I've had two people already try to direct me off of the track and to the airport... Nitro guys are like "are you sure that motor isn't too much..." I'm like "hell no!!!" I absolutley love it!
Runtime, with my speed control set to "low" timing and 16/50 gearing:
Poly RC 5100, 4s 20 min runtime, normal driving, such as racing conditions
Maxamps 5250 5s - 20 min runtime, but that is driving very aggressively with front wheels skyward most of the time, I could probably squeeze a few more minutes out of it, if I cut down on some showboating, but what fun is that! Motor temps have never gone over 130 with either pack, MMM around 110, and batteries around 90 - 100.
For my diff I started with 5-5-5 and couldn't keep the front wheels on the ground. Now I'm using 7-10-5 and it is a huge improvement, and it still wheelies sometimes but they usually go pizza cutter and stay close to the ground. I think 15k or 20k in the center will help put all 4 tires power to the ground a little better, and will be trying that soon. The only problem I'm still having is I can barely keep the tires on the rims and I have to reglue them often...Oh well!
Just my .02
I'm running my Fusion buggy with 7-10-5 with the 2650 and my Fusion F8T truggy with the 2200 on 10-10-5. I'll be running them both this weekend but I have a feeling I may need to up the centers to 20-30K. These motors have a boat load of power on 4S.
Last race my buggy front tires where flamming out so bad they hit the body as I was going down the front straight. That was with 5-7-3.
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Losi 8ight--MMM 2650 Castle
Losi 8T 2.0--Neu 1515 1Y/F MMM V1 or 2200 Castle
Enerland Batteries 5S-5000 Mah or 5S-5000 Turnigy
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Schmutz ist für den Rennsport, asphalt ist für die Anreise
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* Mugen MBX6T -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1700kv System on 5S
* Losi E-8ight-B 1.8 -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1900kv System on 5S
* Mugen EMBX5 Prospec -- Castle Creation MMM 2200kv System on 4S
* Xray M18 -- Castle something on 2S
* EMBX6 in HD action and E-8ight-T 2.0 in HD action: just YOUTUBE(teeforb)
This thing absolutely flies! I've had two people already try to direct me off of the track and to the airport...
Nitro guys are like "are you sure that motor isn't too much..." I'm like "hell no!!!" 
I absolutley love it!
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