Does anyone know what kind of multi adapter balance board I need for a hyperion charger to charge a zippy pack? One hobbycity is says it has a JST-XH balance plug.
To the best of my knowledge the "NeuCastle" combos use 3mm. Look here and a guy did a complete pictorial of the process he used to drill and tap for 4mm.
Awesome, thank you.
Here's a couple more questions:
2200KV and 4S lipo
or
1800KV and 5S lipo
which motor/lipo combo will run longer? estimated times?
I'm not worried about the temps since the RPM's are fairly close and already know the 5S will likely run a little cooler, per Tekno's installation instruction chart for selecting battery and Motor KV combos.
Here's a couple more questions:
2200KV and 4S lipo
or
1800KV and 5S lipo
which motor/lipo combo will run longer? estimated times?
I'm not worried about the temps since the RPM's are fairly close and already know the 5S will likely run a little cooler, per Tekno's installation instruction chart for selecting battery and Motor KV combos.
tks again.
I might not be the best person to ask! If it were me? I would get the 2200Kv and the 5S LiPo .
Here is what I know . . . I have a 2550Kv motor and run 4s LiPos. I am geared @ 13/44 (~45mph) and run for about 20-min. I do not see a lot of wide open throttle on our city track however. Medium sized and mildy technical. I hope this helps. . .
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I know the pieces fit.
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Associated T4 - Novak GTB 10.5
Associated B4 - Novak GTB 13.5
Here's a couple more questions:
2200KV and 4S lipo
or
1800KV and 5S lipo
which motor/lipo combo will run longer? estimated times?
I'm not worried about the temps since the RPM's are fairly close and already know the 5S will likely run a little cooler, per Tekno's installation instruction chart for selecting battery and Motor KV combos.
tks again.
if you are targeting for racing, the 5s 1800KV will be your better setup. Nice power and speed and the most efficient of your choices...
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* Mugen MBX6T -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1700kv System on 5S
* Losi E-8ight-B 1.8 -- TEKNO Conversion -- Tekin 1900kv System on 5S
* Mugen EMBX5 Prospec -- Castle Creation MMM 2200kv System on 4S
* Xray M18 -- Castle something on 2S
* EMBX6 in HD action and E-8ight-T 2.0 in HD action: just YOUTUBE(teeforb)
Here's a couple more questions:
2200KV and 4S lipo
or
1800KV and 5S lipo
which motor/lipo combo will run longer? estimated times?
I'm not worried about the temps since the RPM's are fairly close and already know the 5S will likely run a little cooler, per Tekno's installation instruction chart for selecting battery and Motor KV combos.
tks again.
acually you can run the 2200 and 5s, gear it the same as for 4s, and turn your epa down so its at the same speed, (motor spins at the same rpm) and then you will have more total energy in the pack, resulting in more runtime
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losi 8 T8 2250 "T" MMM
losi 8T 2.0 T8 1550 MMM
hobbycity zippy packs
try em out they arent bad!!!
rcproduct designs rocks!
I talked to Castle about this exact question. Here is the response:
"Use whatever cutoff your manufacturer recommends. I run auto-lipo...I tested the software so I KNOW it cuts off the batteries at 3v/cell under load and it's a soft cutoff so it will never go below that...just make the motor turn slower and slower. Joe Ford Product Specialist Castle Creations"
Does anyone know how dramatic the power loss is? is it easily noticed?
Guys, I have noticed a lot of people talking about modifying their motors to use 4mm motor mount screws. I believe some of the Neu's are shipping with 4mm tapped holes as well.
Are the 3mm motor mounts not holding up? I have been keeping a check on mine and no problems so far. They do not fit inside the Losi motor mount as well the 4mm would but am not going to disassemble and re-tap the Neu in my buggy unless I run the risk of damaging the thing permanently by running the 3mm screws.
I would like to hear what issues people have been encountering. Thanks!
I found 3mm screws work fine but you don't want ones that have a 2mm hex socket on it, you want to locate motor screws that use a 2.5mm hex socket cause they don't lose their hex so easily and allow you to get more torque on the screw. Shouldn't be too hard to find sum but if you're having trouble I located and using some Xray screws that have a part number on them, will see if I can find the number if you want.
I am using 4 screws on the brake spacer in my medusa so haven't noticed the thread stripping. The motor mount still fastens to the brake spacer with two screws but the brake spacer to the motor is using four countersunk screws and they never move or have to be removed.
acually you can run the 2200 and 5s, gear it the same as for 4s, and turn your epa down so its at the same speed, (motor spins at the same rpm) and then you will have more total energy in the pack, resulting in more runtime
If it he was going to use a 4S 5000 and now is going to use a 5S 4000. How is there more total energy? Its the same thing.
1 - I can't drill my motor mount from 3mm to 4mm because of my AE motor's mount design ( Associated conversion kit ) !
2 - I have contact Neu and they told me that they can change me the front cover for free !! It's cool !
I have two solutions : Change front cover or find somebody who can makes me a aluminium motor mount.
Use one of these puppies. http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...rontmotorcover
Drill the holes in it to 4mm to affix it to your motor, maybe increase the countersinks a touch to accept 4mm countersink srews nice and flush. It has 3mm thread on it to use with your motor mount. Then you'll have both options.
Does anyone know how dramatic the power loss is? is it easily noticed?
It is easily noticed when it hits cutoff the car will lose power to motor when you try and pull full throttle. It will still run at partial throttle but I have always brought it in immediately. My guess is the full throttle pull drops the voltage to the point of cutoff, because if you turn it off then on pull full throttle its there. My charger shows 6.9 volts per pack. I use 2 2s1p packs like saddle packs.
Does anyone know how dramatic the power loss is? is it easily noticed?
You can't miss it. Your car slows down significantly within 50m and then stops. It might go again if you light throttle it but it evaporates very quick so you probably won't be able to rely on getting home if you're in a race and it dumps half way round a lap.
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