Can we stop renaming our converted cars as if they are something new? EH7 etc.... it's a Hyper 7... H7 for short. I will let the mfg rename the cars if they want if/when they produce electric kits. I do a double take every time I'm cruising through the posts and see an "electrifyd" name for a car.... (sp. I know...)
Wow Mr. Crankypants... I think the EH7 is the name of Dan's conversion kit that he produces and sells. He can refer to it as whatever he wants as far as I'm concerned. Bring it down a notch, eh? Why so hostile all the time? It seems as though on multiple forums and threads, you are constantly trying to discredit this product/project and remind everyone that you did it first/better/faster/smarter/cooler or whatever.
Chill out dude, there's room enough for everyone at the table. The more electric 1/8th buggies out there, the better.
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The signature formerly known as ApexSpeed.com. And no, I'm no longer associated with the USVTA, but thanks for asking.
Are you guys finding that a 3s lipo is enough power, or do most of you need to go with a 4s lipo? I have also been debating putting like a mamba 6900 w/ a 3s lipo and properly gearing it to see how it performs.
I wouldn't use that combo. Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think that motor will handle 76,590 rpm. If it is a buggy you are using, you may want to run it through this calculator to estimate your speed. I know you mentioned correct gearing, but with the standard gears and that setup, if the motor or ESC didn't fry, you are looking at about 70MPH.
These two kits are for sale now.
I am making them to order for now
EH7 $225. Plus shipping
EL8 $125. Plus shipping.
Email me at dan@rcproductdesigns to order.
I will be starting one for the Mugen MBX-5 next.
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www.rcproductdesigns.com
Electric 1/8th scale conversions
Washtenaw RC Raceway Michigans Biggest and Best Indoor Dirt Racing.
Tekin RX8
Portland RC Raceway
Have you thought any more about kits for those of us who want to retain the factory brakes? I just couldn't dirve my car as fast without the rear brake bias.
Have you thought any more about kits for those of us who want to retain the factory brakes? I just couldn't dirve my car as fast without the rear brake bias.
There is not really room for all that is necessary for mechanical breaks.
With the thought process and experience of a Nitro racer I can see your point. BUT.. you will find these cars very easy to drive without mechanical braking and the ability to adjust the bias.
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www.rcproductdesigns.com
Electric 1/8th scale conversions
Washtenaw RC Raceway Michigans Biggest and Best Indoor Dirt Racing.
Tekin RX8
Portland RC Raceway
r40victom....when you set up your nitro do you have more rear brakes or front? the reason i ask is if you set it up with more rear brakes then the standard braking with the electric motor we all use will work just right for you. i say this because when i apply the brakes to my electric buggy the center diff automaticly transfers more brakes to the rear just like when you accelerate energy gets transfered to the front.
in all honesty the front to rear balance is going to get changed from what you are use to any way because of the way things need to get placed on the chassis. i have been told that most nitro buggys are approx. 55% rear and 45% front weight balance. my raze was like this before i converted it. my buggy is now at 51% rear and 49% front and it turnes great.
dj1978, lxmuff and a bunch more have raced these things on a very tight indoor track by nitro standards and they have all the braking and turning control they need.
These two kits are for sale now.
I am making them to order for now
EH7 $225. Plus shipping
EL8 $125. Plus shipping.
Email me at dan@rcproductdesigns to order.
I will be starting one for the Mugen MBX-5 next.
any pics and what all does this include
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ARCS HOBBIES - HOTBODIES - DIGGITY DESIGNS
HIGHVELOCITY RACING - WIFE OF AMERICA BANKING
hello ,
I've been watching this thread for couple of days until I saw that it's still alive
I'm on to converting a hyper 8 rtr into a brushless (a 9xl wanderer) with a mamba max esc and two 5000mah lipo packs (100A constant ) And have been told that if I use the motor as a break it will go over the 100A max of the mamba max and burn the esc :s should I keep the breaks ?
I weighed the EH7 with all components in place.
I am using a Hyper 7 Pro chassis with sway bars in place. 3.5mm hardened shocks. It has a lot of aluminum bracing also.
This is with the NOVAK 4400 Maxx system, 2 6000 mah MAX AMPS batteries.
Weight was very evenly distributed. with a little bias toward the rear.
Total - 8lbs 9 1/2 oz
These weights are without tires per corner.
Left Rear 34.8 oz Total Rear 68.7 oz Right Rear 33.9 oz
Left Front 28.9 oz Total Front 56.5 oz Right Front 27.6 oz
Total with out tires. 125.2 oz= 7.825 lb
Tire Crime Fighters 17.9 oz = 1.19 lbs
Total 143.1oz = 8.943 lbs
We did the EL8. I don't have all the numbers in front of me.. but there was about a 3 1/2 oz difference sided to side. It does NOT make a difference as far as how the car handles or jumps.
__________________
www.rcproductdesigns.com
Electric 1/8th scale conversions
Washtenaw RC Raceway Michigans Biggest and Best Indoor Dirt Racing.
Tekin RX8
Portland RC Raceway
Wow Mr. Crankypants... I think the EH7 is the name of Dan's conversion kit that he produces and sells. He can refer to it as whatever he wants as far as I'm concerned. Bring it down a notch, eh? Why so hostile all the time? It seems as though on multiple forums and threads, you are constantly trying to discredit this product/project and remind everyone that you did it first/better/faster/smarter/cooler or whatever.
Chill out dude, there's room enough for everyone at the table. The more electric 1/8th buggies out there, the better.
I'm not surprised to see a reply like this... which is fine. I don't need to bring anything down a notch though.... it's not hostile at all. There are many others who make parts/kits but they don't rename a car when merely changing out a part or two. It's just silly.... and it's my opinion. But we do need a complete listing of what to call conversions Can my buddy call his homemade conversion an ERAZE or is that only if it's Dan's parts used? If I only buy the motor mount but not the battery mount from Dan does that qualify as an ERAZE or EH7? See what I mean??? Sillyyyyy........
As for being critical??? Only in that maybe it's bogus to start threads on mulitple forums with new products for sale and "taking orders".... when they are still under development. I told Dan that before, no biggie. Also statements like the 8ight battery tray was specificaly designed for the 5000 pack.... which was obviously not true.... makes you shake your head. That's why I gave him a bit of a hard time about it and mentioned that my car can run the 8000 pack jsut fine. I do really like the mount and I have told them that... it's something I would make if I had the equipment. BTW, I have seen others make similar battery mounts at rcmonster.
Oh.. it can be funny to watch them speculate on things that some of us already know. Maybe they too should keep up to speed at rc-monster.com. Of course you can't start threads with things for sale there.....
I hope you can tell I'm laughing here and not all worked up like you think I am.
Hey, to be fair.... I might understand calling the car an "EH7"... IF... it's sold as a complete car already assembled rather than a couple parts to do yourself. Liek what Mr.Constructor or Finedesign *cough*... does.
IMO.... .... Dan should be using a company name and sticking that label on the cars. Rather than EH7, it would be the "Danspeed" Hyper7 or whatever. Case in point.... as I type I can't remember the name of the company (is there one?)... only that the cars are referred to as "Exxx" in all caps. So if I had one and was at the track... which is more important to know?
More brushless is better, yes.... before long they will come right from the mfg I think. But I can still have some fun I hope.......