JConcepts Thread
#6496
#6498
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Currently racing indoor hard packed track. The track is damp at start of practice but dries out more and more as night goes on. Still damp by the mains but lap times close to a second slower. We are using green pressure points or bar codes and even 3D's early on. Would another compound work better when drier like Gold or Blue? What about different tread pattern? The racing line does groove up a little but I wouldn't quite call it a blue groove track
#6499
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Currently racing indoor hard packed track. The track is damp at start of practice but dries out more and more as night goes on. Still damp by the mains but lap times close to a second slower. We are using green pressure points or bar codes and even 3D's early on. Would another compound work better when drier like Gold or Blue? What about different tread pattern? The racing line does groove up a little but I wouldn't quite call it a blue groove track
If it's drying to the point of being dusty, I like dd's. Without dust, bar codes & preasure points are the best bet. Greens for ultimate stick & not caring about tread life (10-15 minutes run time when hot, or less as the track starts to take a blue groove). Gold when the track still has at least a little water in it (VERY track dependant, I can't get gold to hook up on any of the red clay tracks in my area). Blue when it's hot & you want to save some tire life.
Also inserts can make a huge difference. If the track is smooth &/or the traction comes up in a blue groove condition, I tend to prefer a closed cell. If the track is bumpy, open cell works better. With open cell you can also tailor the insert to the track conditions. You can put 3/4 rear or full rear in front & still be softer than a closed cell. Similarly you can add 1/4 or 1/2 rear to a full rear to firm it up. Front or rear you can trim the corners to soften them if it's really bumpy, but this really only helps on hardpack with low traction & very bumpy.
All the insert, compound, & tread combos are very, VERY, VERY track & personal preference oriented. What works for me at my track, probably won't work for you at your track. The only way to figure it out is to get several combinations of tires, & test them all. I.e. 1 set of pp's, 1 of dd's, 1 of bc's all the same compound, all the same insert, all the same wheel & run them back to back, pick you favorite, run it in green, blue, & gold compound, pick your favorite, run it with open cell & closed cell, now you have a best tire with the best compound, with the best insert for that day. It will change next week What all this will actually do for you is give you a better idea how to pick the right tire for the current conditions.
A perfect example of this happened a few weeks ago to a friend of mine who is a VERY good 2wd buggy pilot. He got to the track (one we don't run on a weekly basis) late & didn't get to run any practice laps. 1st qualifier he ran the same tires he had run the last week at another track that LOOKED similar. He guessed wrong on the tires & turned only 13 laps in 5 minutes (tq was 15 laps). Next (& final ) round he changed his tires only & turned 17 laps (2nd turned 16)! That's the difference having the right tire can make. The only way to be able to get the choice that right, that quickly is through experience trying everything for yourself.
:edit: I just realized you have been on rc tech for 12 years, you probably know all this. Well, maybe it will help someone else
#6501
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Thank you for the very detailed reply. I should have mentioned I have been in the hobby for 25+ years. So I'm aware of most of the principles and concepts you provided. However I have been racing on carpet exclusively for the last 3 to 4 years and just recently started racing on dirt again. I'm loving the challenge and the feel that racing on the dirt again. With carpet there is only one set of tires that works so getting back on the dirt again opens up countless options.
My knowledge gap is really related to what compound would be best when there is different levels of moisture in the track. Sounds like green would be best but I will try some gold or blue to make sure. As you said some tracks will require a tread pattern or compound of tire that you wouldn't expect to work. Some of us actually prefer a taller tread (3D 's) when most swear by a Pressure Point type tire.
We are running closed cell in rear ( track is smooth) and 3/4 rear open cell in from tires. I'm currently running groovy fronts but I have also tried bar codes but preferred the groovy.
I'm racing again tomorrow night and I'll report back any new info I'm able to figure out.
Thanks again
My knowledge gap is really related to what compound would be best when there is different levels of moisture in the track. Sounds like green would be best but I will try some gold or blue to make sure. As you said some tracks will require a tread pattern or compound of tire that you wouldn't expect to work. Some of us actually prefer a taller tread (3D 's) when most swear by a Pressure Point type tire.
We are running closed cell in rear ( track is smooth) and 3/4 rear open cell in from tires. I'm currently running groovy fronts but I have also tried bar codes but preferred the groovy.
I'm racing again tomorrow night and I'll report back any new info I'm able to figure out.
Thanks again
#6503
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
I think I saw that video. He got around very well considering. I have been racing offroad for years. But the last few it has been indoors on carpeted offroad track. This summer I went back on the dirt at a few local tracks and this fall and winter I'm also racing indoor dirt. Track is closer and racing night is more convenient. Tomorrow night should be a great time with some old friends that I've been racing with for 20 years!
#6506
#6508
you do know they're the same car right? god i hope so. lol