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Old 08-15-2013, 06:22 AM   #6376
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Originally Posted by Venom1836 View Post
At Bashers RC Racway we usually run Green Barcodes front and rear (V1)... (2wd/4wd buggy)

Is there another setup that offers similar traction but last a little longer? I am getting tired of replacing tires every few visits to the track.

Thanks!
-Venom
Unfortunately like any form of racing; you will always have to compromise performance for longevity.

Suggestions:
-V2 Bar Codes tend to have a little better wear, but slightly less side-bite.
-You could go with Blue compound for better wear, but again will give up some traction.
-Even though Pressure Points have a smaller pin, they seem to have a little better life span because the pins are so close together (track pending).
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:26 AM   #6377
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Can we get a little more info about the track? Is it hard packed with dust on top or soft/thick surface? I always start with 3D's when the surface is multi-layered.
It's a thick and dry surface, sometimes it was watered and become loamy
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:53 AM   #6378
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Originally Posted by Wilson Picaldy View Post
Hi,

I'm new to 2wd buggy and need suggestion for tires, I'm running on the track with very thick dust.

Thanks!
3ds, soft or super soft depending on temps.
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:00 AM   #6379
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I've never seen this before and not sure what it could be. Did you order the axles direct or through a distributor? Maybe we can get you a replacement depending where you got them.

Hi,

I bought them from ebay but the seller has a official site.

Rchobbies4life is the name of the seller.
I hope it's still possible to replace them?
I do have the receipt from ebay.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:01 AM   #6380
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Originally Posted by PW View Post
Unfortunately like any form of racing; you will always have to compromise performance for longevity.

Suggestions:
-V2 Bar Codes tend to have a little better wear, but slightly less side-bite.
-You could go with Blue compound for better wear, but again will give up some traction.
-Even though Pressure Points have a smaller pin, they seem to have a little better life span because the pins are so close together (track pending).
Some guys at the track do run pressure points... Maybe I could try barcodes up front in blue and pressure points in blue in the rear on my 4 and 2 wheel drive buggys?

What about longer lasting tires for Space Coast RC? (my local track is similar in track surface)
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:23 AM   #6381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Martijn View Post
Hi,

I bought them from ebay but the seller has a official site.

Rchobbies4life is the name of the seller.
I hope it's still possible to replace them?
I do have the receipt from ebay.
Please contact us directly with all your info and explanation - [email protected]

Quote:
Some guys at the track do run pressure points... Maybe I could try barcodes up front in blue and pressure points in blue in the rear on my 4 and 2 wheel drive buggys?

What about longer lasting tires for Space Coast RC? (my local track is similar in track surface)
Sounds like a good plan.

Same goes for SCRC regarding tires.
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:08 AM   #6382
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
I built mine with the beefier cups in the front, the normal looking cups on the steering rack and the beefier/angled on the back with the angled one at the hub carrier. This is what worked well for me.
I have the JConcepts Titanium Turnbuckles and the newer JConcepts ball cups that I am trying to install on my T4.2. It seems that when using the JConcepts ball cups that my front link is too long. I can screw the cups on well past where the threads are not showing however then they are so tight I can't adjust the link without it popping off the ball stud

Has anyone else come across this issue on the T4.2?
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:25 AM   #6383
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Make sure you lube the turnbuckle. Also, I always work the ball cup on and off so they are easier to adjust once they are on the car. What you are experiencing is normal for any brand ball cup.


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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint View Post
I have the JConcepts Titanium Turnbuckles and the newer JConcepts ball cups that I am trying to install on my T4.2. It seems that when using the JConcepts ball cups that my front link is too long. I can screw the cups on well past where the threads are not showing however then they are so tight I can't adjust the link without it popping off the ball stud

Has anyone else come across this issue on the T4.2?
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:25 AM   #6384
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint View Post
I have the JConcepts Titanium Turnbuckles and the newer JConcepts ball cups that I am trying to install on my T4.2. It seems that when using the JConcepts ball cups that my front link is too long. I can screw the cups on well past where the threads are not showing however then they are so tight I can't adjust the link without it popping off the ball stud

Has anyone else come across this issue on the T4.2?
You're supposed to apply some grease or chapstick to the threads of the turnbuckles before installing them.... That, and make sure that you're using a turnbuckle wrench and either ballcup pliers or a ball cup holder

Easy peezy!
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:10 AM   #6385
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint View Post
I have the JConcepts Titanium Turnbuckles and the newer JConcepts ball cups that I am trying to install on my T4.2. It seems that when using the JConcepts ball cups that my front link is too long. I can screw the cups on well past where the threads are not showing however then they are so tight I can't adjust the link without it popping off the ball stud

Has anyone else come across this issue on the T4.2?
Hideeho
I use black grease (always have tons more of that than anything else laying around) & a drill to install my cups for the 1st time.I put the grease on the threads, the cup in the drill chuck & drill it on & back off. Then I clean it up & put the cup on manually to where it needs to be.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:22 AM   #6386
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Thanks for the feedback but you guys are missing the point. I don't have an issue getting the ball cups to thread on, my issue it that I need to screw them approx 1/4" past the point where the ball cup covers the threads on the turnbuckle. It does not seem like I should need to put them that far onto the turnbuckle to get the correct length
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:28 AM   #6387
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint View Post
Thanks for the feedback but you guys are missing the point. I don't have an issue getting the ball cups to thread on, my issue it that I need to screw them approx 1/4" past the point where the ball cup covers the threads on the turnbuckle. It does not seem like I should need to put them that far onto the turnbuckle to get the correct length
The square ballcups are longer and board out to overlap (added stength) the non-threaded portion of the turnbuckle. The rounded cup is the same length as stock and shouldn't be any different than stock. The new JC ballcups are made out of a much stiffer/stronger material and this can cause them to pop off when adjusting your camber if not greased/tapped before installing.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:31 AM   #6388
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:36 AM   #6389
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any plans for pressure points for front 4wd buggys?
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:42 AM   #6390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waflet View Post
Hideeho
I use black grease (always have tons more of that than anything else laying around) & a drill to install my cups for the 1st time.I put the grease on the threads, the cup in the drill chuck & drill it on & back off. Then I clean it up & put the cup on manually to where it needs to be.
I use the drill as well. Just be sure to go very slow so you dont build up too much heat or they will be impossible to adjust. Also add some grease to the threads of the turnbuckle. Just installed them on all 3 of my kits yesterday with Fin turnbuckles and had no issues at all. B4.2,B44.2,T4.2
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