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Old 01-25-2013, 12:38 PM   #5821
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wcrc has them instock. the jc turnbuckles that is.
Hideeho
What is the metalic dot below & inside the inner ball stud on the tower?
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:39 PM   #5822
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Hideeho
I've asked this before, but that was before the B4.2 & b44.2 were anounced with hex drives.

Has any thought been given to making a Rulux wheel for 1/10 buggies with 12mm hex drive? I love my Rulux wheels (run them on 1/10, 1/8, & formerly on sc) & haven't converted to hexes on my B4.1 only because of them.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:47 PM   #5823
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Hideeho
What is the metalic dot below & inside the inner ball stud on the tower?
I think they're titanium flathead screws
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:56 PM   #5824
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I think they're titanium flathead screws
Hideeho
Thats what I thought it was also. I guess he machined out the recess for the cap screw to fit it in. Next question, why would you want to do that? Is there even enough room there to fit 2 flat head screws?
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:48 PM   #5825
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Update: AE axles and Avid hexes work. No shims, no wobbles....

If I would have known this was an issue from the start, I would have bought JC Hexes too. Hence why I said it would be nice to maybe include that little tidbit somewhere on JC site/ product info.

I still may buy the JC hexes.......The axles are REALLY nice compared to stock AE.

Do you know if the sc10 has the same issue cause I just ordered JC axles with avid hexes. I did get JC wheels also though.

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Old 01-25-2013, 03:11 PM   #5826
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Hideeho
Thats what I thought it was also. I guess he machined out the recess for the cap screw to fit it in. Next question, why would you want to do that? Is there even enough room there to fit 2 flat head screws?
Maybe just for looks.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:14 PM   #5827
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Do you know if the sc10 has the same issue cause I just ordered JC axles with avid hexes. I did get JC wheels also though.
Have no clue bro... we are talking about two different class vehicles.

You should be able to tell when you get it together, see if you can see axle sticking out past the wheel (no threads). If so, I bet the nut won't fully tighten. That is how mine looked upon further inspection.

The first time you tighten the wheel nut, don't crank on it too much. When I really turned mine, since the nut was seated to the axle but not tight between hex and wheel, the hex would actually spin in the wheel with some muscle.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:16 PM   #5828
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Have no clue bro... we are talking about two different class vehicles.

You should be able to tell when you get it together, see if you can see axle sticking out past the wheel (no threads). If so, I bet the nut won't fully tighten. That is how mine looked upon further inspection.

The first time you tighten the wheel nut, don't crank on it too much. When I really turned mine, since the nut was seated to the axle but not tight between hex and wheel, the hex would actually spin in the wheel with some muscle.
Alright I hope not or else ill have to go with the stock axles. My friend broke one the first time out.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:24 PM   #5829
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Hideeho
Thats what I thought it was also. I guess he machined out the recess for the cap screw to fit it in. Next question, why would you want to do that? Is there even enough room there to fit 2 flat head screws?
The flathead screws have a larger surface area giving better support. I know one trick we always did (and I still do) to the old gold tub chassis was to counter sink all the screw holes on the sides and rear of the chassis to use flatheads. They stayed tighter and kept the chassis tweak to a minimum. I am sure there is more than enough room to have all 4 screws as a flathead.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:33 AM   #5830
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The flathead screws have a larger surface area giving better support. I know one trick we always did (and I still do) to the old gold tub chassis was to counter sink all the screw holes on the sides and rear of the chassis to use flatheads. They stayed tighter and kept the chassis tweak to a minimum. I am sure there is more than enough room to have all 4 screws as a flathead.
Hideeho
Ah, ok, I understand now. Thank you.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:35 AM   #5831
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=iKL7YtNpsQQ

Video from Reedy Race on new Jconcepts products
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:24 PM   #5832
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Got my Jconcept axles on the front and my avid hexes. I think my only issue will be the threaded section is too short so ill prob have to get the thin locking nuts.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:29 PM   #5833
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Just wanted to know the benefit of running stock vs closed cell inserts are guys mixing them up 2 stock 2 closed cell thinking of trying this out with my new set of pressure points for stadium truck? What have you guys been having luck with?
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:09 PM   #5834
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Just wanted to know the benefit of running stock vs closed cell inserts are guys mixing them up 2 stock 2 closed cell thinking of trying this out with my new set of pressure points for stadium truck? What have you guys been having luck with?
In stadium truck, insert is so huge. For our medium bite indoor dirt track, I don't even want to run my truck with open cell it's so horrible compared to closed cell. Buggy, open cell front is good, but on truck, open cell front isn't as good as closed cell from my experience.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:11 PM   #5835
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For what it's worth...

SC10 front axles (stock, with NO clips) worked perfect with Avid hexes.

I installed the JC axles, with the same Avid hexes and I have no runout/wobble issues.

Ran JC Hazard +3 wheels in both cases.
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