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Old 08-23-2009, 04:54 PM   #3091
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Thanx for that guys. Decided on the airtronics 94362z.

Torque: 100 oz/in @ 4.8V, 125oz/in @ 6.0V
Transit Time: 0.09 sec/60 degrees @ 4.8V, 0.07 sec/60 degrees @ 6.0V
Weight: 2.11oz (59.8g)
Dimensions: 1.54" x 0.79" x 1.47" (39 x 20 x 37mm)
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Old 08-23-2009, 05:04 PM   #3092
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DG Designs - where or how can i get quick change front axles like that????
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Old 08-23-2009, 05:25 PM   #3093
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Send this guy a PM http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...n-kellogg.html I am not sure how he does it but it uses Associated parts.
I just used XXXcr front spindles and ground them down. I need to make a ver 2.0 because i did have the correct drill bit and i have a little more slop than i want.
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Old 08-24-2009, 05:05 AM   #3094
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any plan of having the goose bumps for rear tire to match the frt 4wd~~~
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Old 08-24-2009, 05:34 AM   #3095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockslasher View Post
Now that Jconcepts released the body for the 16th Revo I am currious about a 16th Slash body. Will you copy the Truth for the 16th Slash???
That is on the list

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any plan of having the goose bumps for rear tire to match the frt 4wd~~~
We do make buggy rear Goosebumps - Part #3018-02 - They are out of stock here, but several online stores have current stock.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUFB0&P=SM

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Last edited by PW; 08-25-2009 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 08-24-2009, 11:00 PM   #3096
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Other than than 2 pairs of sc goose bumps, what rims (part #) do I need? Is there better foam I can put in there?
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:53 AM   #3097
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Other than than 2 pairs of sc goose bumps, what rims (part #) do I need? Is there better foam I can put in there?
Which truck do you have; Slash or SC10? I recommend the stock inserts.

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...dex&cPath=4_36
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Old 08-25-2009, 06:23 AM   #3098
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I have a slash.
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Old 08-25-2009, 06:48 AM   #3099
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do u guys make Rulux rims for standard T4 rears?

Not the Quick change ones.
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:40 AM   #3100
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[QUOTE=PW;6247797]That is on the list


Glad to here that you have a 1/16th slash body on your list. Put me down for one when released. Is the Mini Inferno body discontinued? I don't see it on the website anymore. It fits the Mini Revo/Slash body and wheelbase you just have to create custom mounts. I have a half 8 buggy built from a 1/16the Slash and would love to get the Jconcepts high flow body. I have one of the other guys bodies on it today just to finish the model today.

Now I just needs some Goosebumps for the 16th Slash and I'm set!!!!
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Old 08-25-2009, 02:26 PM   #3101
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do u guys make Rulux rims for standard T4 rears?

Not the Quick change ones.

They are brand new, and are due to be released in a few weeks. It should be part number 3315. Add a "Y" for Yellow
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:40 PM   #3102
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Questions?? Metric BJ4?

Haven't seen it asked before, but has anyone done a metric screw conversion to their BJ4? I'm only considering doing this to all the screws going into the gearboxes, since it seems like the SAE screws strip the plastic pretty easily, and would like some input as to how much modification was necessary to get the countersunk screws sitting flush before I start drilling the carbon and aluminum bits
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:44 PM   #3103
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Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
Send this guy a PM http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...n-kellogg.html I am not sure how he does it but it uses Associated parts.
I just used XXXcr front spindles and ground them down. I need to make a ver 2.0 because i did have the correct drill bit and i have a little more slop than i want.
I drove Camerons T4 with the quick change and not once did the tire pop off with the JConcept wheels. Like the rear quick change, you just have to make sure you correctly pull that tab over the lip of the quick change wheel. Its pretty cool
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:48 PM   #3104
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sooo when do the 7s come out for 2wheel drive buggy?
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:08 PM   #3105
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Originally Posted by SMcpot View Post
Haven't seen it asked before, but has anyone done a metric screw conversion to their BJ4? I'm only considering doing this to all the screws going into the gearboxes, since it seems like the SAE screws strip the plastic pretty easily, and would like some input as to how much modification was necessary to get the countersunk screws sitting flush before I start drilling the carbon and aluminum bits
My understanding is with the fine thread on the metric screws, you actually strip the holes easier than with SAE course thread screws.
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