joffacn

Hi

I have all brushless and lipos in my helis and planes so I want to start off this way in my buggy.

Do any of the top 4WD buggies stand out because they are easier to fit a Brushless and Lipos? That is they are more lipo and brushless ready.

It seems that the brushless ESC's are BIG so harder to find room and there are 3 (or 4) wires from motor to ESC.

Saddle pack lipos are available so no real problem with the 3+3 layout.

What about weight distribution? All current buggies are designed for SubC packs which are more than 100gm heavier for the same mAh capacity (4900).

What thoughts?

Thanks Jeff

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

Jconcepts BJ4 (not the WE) and Losi XXX-4 G+ use stick packs whereas most of the rest use saddle packs

Cheers

foolio

iTrader: (3)

You can get saddle packs as well as stick packs to fit all types of 4WD cars nowadays.

Saddle packs: www.maxamps.com
Stick packs: orion, maxamps, others.

Just search around. Good luck.

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

Sorry read it wrong, thought he said he already had lipo stick batteries.
The xx-4 is a saddle pack chassis but you can still put a stick battery in.


Cheers

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

To be honest, I would try to pair him with the most durable buggy on the market. I do not know 4wd buggies very well, but when you run lipo/brushless I would think that running the most durable buggy possible would be the way to go. Your ultimate goal when you run brushless lipo is to put a car on the track that can survive a 20 minute main. 1/10th trucks are the only vehicles that people seem to have success w/ for brushless/lipo because of thermaling problems. I believe some well placed scoops from oocrcracing.com would fix this problem. I also think that finding a buggy suited for a stick pack is your best choice. stick lipos are just plain cheaper and hold more capacity because of how they are built. I also think a shaft drive buggy will pay divedends because they require less maintanance. Not to mention make sure you get something that you can get parts for at a cheap price localy.

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

Nicely said and the only 4wd buggy that comes to mind is the first Jconcetps BJ4 (the one before the WE)
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/produc...products_id/28


Cheers

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Academys SB V2 series of buggies has proven to be quite durable and they soon have a pro model coming out that should really up the ante. They also are having success with the buggy especially considering there team is really just starting out.

I think the main thing concerning lipo ( I am thinking the same thing if I get back into electric) is that the weight difference from a standard nimh pack and a lipo is significant. So if the cells are running down 1 side of the chassis ala stick pack, you may have an imbalance in weight, so you will need to add weight to that side. Even if using a saddle setup, there still would be weight change from front to rear.

frankiecmgt

iTrader: (77)

DRIFT-BUGGY....
THANKS BRO..I FEEL HONORED THAT YOU USED A PIC OF MY XX4 AS A EXAMPLE.....

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

lol, no worries Found it on losibk2.com

Cheers

FowLer

I have ran a XXX4 all of this indoor season and recently got rid of it. It is a real drivers car vs. some of the other 4wheelers out there in my opinion. everytime i put my losi on the track it broke something, this weekend a buddy let me run his zx5 and after 2 full packs threw it no probs.. These are the only 2 wheelers i have gotten to drive but of the 2 the Ky. is a more durable/easier to drive car in my opinion.
The xxx4 was very easy to maintain i think, the belt was simple to care for as long as you have the tension and slipper adjustments set correctly. I didnt get to wrench on the Kyosho so i cant help on ease of wrenching on it.

mattnin

iTrader: (44)

I run the jconcepts BJ4WE w/ saddle pack lipos and mamba max 5700 with no problem at all. I don't even need to add any weight to the rear, although I did soften the rear suspension a tad.

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

Was it a XXX-4 or G+? Was it fully stock & what parts where you breaking?

Cheers

Brushless Corey

I hear that the 4wd class cars break easier. I have a XX-4 with a Velociti 5.5 in it, but I'm waiting to buy a reciever and get some batteries made. I hope I'm not breaking stuff that often. Seems like everytime I take my XXX-T out something breaks.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thing to remember is that with more moving parts, you have more things that can break. But, I think people also need to remember that by default mod is the class 4wd is ran in. So if all you are running is mod, when you hit something at those speeds, its going to break easier than what you see in stock and 19 turn. I would say durability can be right up there with 2wd if speeds are equal, maybe better.