8LikesKyosho Ultima RB5 Thread
02-27-2012, 08:37 PM
02-27-2012, 09:25 PM
Id say the HD ones.
02-27-2012, 09:47 PM
02-27-2012, 10:14 PM
Well hard anodized makes them stronger, I guess the minor weight savings would be nice as well. It really doesn't matter, as long as its metal.
02-28-2012, 06:31 AM
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1461
02-28-2012, 10:41 AM
Hey guys, if anyone is looking for some cars, I have a super clean 4whlr and 2whlr in the 4 sale forum...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...res-clean.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...res-clean.html
02-28-2012, 11:49 AM
On a Mac, bootcamp just runs Windows native on the Mac hardware. So, anything you do with a Windows system will work exactly the same there.
For most things, VMWare and/or Parallels end up being much more convenient, as they can run at the same time as Mac OS X, and not force you to reboot into Windows. There are some other free/open source Virtual Machines, but they're usually a lot slower (probably not an issue for loading most rc software), and often have compatibility quirks (which is where I would expect the problems to be).
And now, back to our regularly scheduled Kyosho thread!
For most things, VMWare and/or Parallels end up being much more convenient, as they can run at the same time as Mac OS X, and not force you to reboot into Windows. There are some other free/open source Virtual Machines, but they're usually a lot slower (probably not an issue for loading most rc software), and often have compatibility quirks (which is where I would expect the problems to be).
And now, back to our regularly scheduled Kyosho thread!
02-28-2012, 11:49 AM
anyone else have this problem?
02-28-2012, 12:35 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
I broken a few by casing a jump and "donkey flipping". If it were a high speed section then im sure i would of broke it. One thing to make sure is that your not over torquing the 4 screws that hold the tower to the rear bulkhead. I need to get me a better shorty pack or take less practice laps. Car faded hard on the last few laps! I should of know to take a safer line though so its my fault. Thats why I like to re watch videos of my runs, makes me know where i need to improve on.
02-28-2012, 12:37 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
yeah.. unfortunately, your answer is ... "stop casing a jump you can't clear". It looks from that video that if you want to triple-single that jump with a stock buggy, especially late in a race, you need to go a tad wider on the corner prior.... if you dive in tight, double-double is the way to go.
02-28-2012, 12:45 PM
02-28-2012, 01:48 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
Yeah that was me in the last couple videos i posted at NorCal (white, tiffany blue, black car). The triple single is barely faster if not the same speed as double double. The double double currently has a bad lip so it was safer to triple single then get thrown all funky off the double.
02-28-2012, 07:46 PM
I broke a rear tower in a similar way, but instead of donkey flipping, I looped out on the brick section, and as my car slid upside down backwards the tower caught an edge and snap!
02-29-2012, 12:13 PM
RB5 Extended Chassis Mod
For those of you who are interested, here is a few pictures of my +10 chassis.
Going to a +10mm chassis has made a world of difference in the handling characteristics of the car, rotation around corners is much smoother and more predictable, I can carry much higher corner speeds and the car jumps and lands much better than before, which is saying a lot because the RB5 is already a killer car.
My basic setup is as follows: pink front, yellow rear, 32.5R/37.5F big bores with 5 holes, wide blocks in the rear with one hole arms.
If anyone wants an extended chassis I might be convinced to make them for a price. Kyosho will be releasing a factory +13 chassis in the next few months but in my opinion it is too long. In low traction situations +13 just has too much weight swinging around in the rear and it becomes like a 22. +10 is the perfect compromise I believe. If you want more details on setup or how I made the chassis, post it here or PM me.
Going to a +10mm chassis has made a world of difference in the handling characteristics of the car, rotation around corners is much smoother and more predictable, I can carry much higher corner speeds and the car jumps and lands much better than before, which is saying a lot because the RB5 is already a killer car.
My basic setup is as follows: pink front, yellow rear, 32.5R/37.5F big bores with 5 holes, wide blocks in the rear with one hole arms.
If anyone wants an extended chassis I might be convinced to make them for a price. Kyosho will be releasing a factory +13 chassis in the next few months but in my opinion it is too long. In low traction situations +13 just has too much weight swinging around in the rear and it becomes like a 22. +10 is the perfect compromise I believe. If you want more details on setup or how I made the chassis, post it here or PM me.
02-29-2012, 02:39 PM
For those of you who are interested, here is a few pictures of my +10 chassis.
Going to a +10mm chassis has made a world of difference in the handling characteristics of the car, rotation around corners is much smoother and more predictable, I can carry much higher corner speeds and the car jumps and lands much better than before, which is saying a lot because the RB5 is already a killer car.
My basic setup is as follows: pink front, yellow rear, 32.5R/37.5F big bores with 5 holes, wide blocks in the rear with one hole arms.
If anyone wants an extended chassis I might be convinced to make them for a price. Kyosho will be releasing a factory +13 chassis in the next few months but in my opinion it is too long. In low traction situations +13 just has too much weight swinging around in the rear and it becomes like a 22. +10 is the perfect compromise I believe. If you want more details on setup or how I made the chassis, post it here or PM me.
Going to a +10mm chassis has made a world of difference in the handling characteristics of the car, rotation around corners is much smoother and more predictable, I can carry much higher corner speeds and the car jumps and lands much better than before, which is saying a lot because the RB5 is already a killer car.
My basic setup is as follows: pink front, yellow rear, 32.5R/37.5F big bores with 5 holes, wide blocks in the rear with one hole arms.
If anyone wants an extended chassis I might be convinced to make them for a price. Kyosho will be releasing a factory +13 chassis in the next few months but in my opinion it is too long. In low traction situations +13 just has too much weight swinging around in the rear and it becomes like a 22. +10 is the perfect compromise I believe. If you want more details on setup or how I made the chassis, post it here or PM me.