i just build the diff in my sp,like the instruction says
how tight should you tightin it?
i just rolled the gear till it got a little tight,then i tighted it abit bit more with a screw driver,im worried i dident snug it up enough
thanks
j force jato- Hand tighten it a decent amount so that it is tight. You won't actually set it until it is in the car.
Once in the car, with tires and electronics ready to go, spin one of the tire, if tranny spins too feeley, its too loose, if it feels like it isn't free at all, loose it. You don't want it over tightened when you first break the diff in.
Once you have got a quick hand feel on loosness/tightness, turn the car on, hold one tire and slowly hit the throttle up to about 15%. Let the free tire spin for 20-30 secs. Then do the same to the other side. Once you have finished this, check how loose/tight the diff is again, more then likely you will tighten it slightly.
Then give it the track test, while driving, if it chirps, its too loose. Tighten in small amounts until the chirping stops. Make sure your not confusing what seems like a loose diff for a loose slipper.
__________________
-Ben Ellis
Team Kyosho / AKA / Team Orion / Big Horn Designs / TnT-FX Graphics / Peak Racing / Live-RC
j force jato- Hand tighten it a decent amount so that it is tight. You won't actually set it until it is in the car.
Once in the car, with tires and electronics ready to go, spin one of the tire, if tranny spins too feeley, its too loose, if it feels like it isn't free at all, loose it. You don't want it over tightened when you first break the diff in.
Once you have got a quick hand feel on loosness/tightness, turn the car on, hold one tire and slowly hit the throttle up to about 15%. Let the free tire spin for 20-30 secs. Then do the same to the other side. Once you have finished this, check how loose/tight the diff is again, more then likely you will tighten it slightly.
Then give it the track test, while driving, if it chirps, its too loose. Tighten in small amounts until the chirping stops. Make sure your not confusing what seems like a loose diff for a loose slipper.
This is perfect advice. I do it the same way as well.
__________________
"Almost Live Race Coverage": www.johnnyboy.ca
.:Kyosho America : Peak Racing : JConcepts : JTP:.
Well after a summer with a diff buggy. I went ahead and put together a RB5SP. I raced one fall of last year into early spring before the switch. I missed that buggy so much.
Anyways I understand that everyone is using the narrow blocks in the rear. What about the shims that raise them?
__________________
David Perez
RB5SP - RT5
Team High Velocity - Evo Grafix
www.summitrcraceway.com - www.HighVelocityRacing.com
Picked up an RB5SP last week and took it out to the track a couple times this week, gotta say I'm really impressed with the car. Little hard to drive mid corner/exit on the low speed corners but I think I have just what it needs. Gonna head back out to the track on Mon/Tues/Wed for more testing and racing.
Haven't broken a single part except a T-Plate which was from overtightening a screw on the pivot mount. The car is definately durable!
__________________
Tamiya TRF - Peak Racing - BMI Racing - KO Propo - AKA - Parma - Manutech - Slapmaster Tools - Pound It Paints
Well after a summer with a diff buggy. I went ahead and put together a RB5SP. I raced one fall of last year into early spring before the switch. I missed that buggy so much.
Anyways I understand that everyone is using the narrow blocks in the rear. What about the shims that raise them?
Like what Rayls said, but most of us use the AL suspension mounts, so no shims under those as well.
Hey David, remember my K20'd Integra? 295hp to the ground on a bone stock bottom end.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyboy
Yeah I figured those would be the way to go, but I didn't see any remarks on the set up sheets regarding the new rear block/shim options. Thanks
So where did you go? Somewhere fun I hope......
__________________
-Jayson Pang-
Kyosho America - Team Orion - KO Propo - Darkside Designs - J-Concepts - Red Bull - Diggity Designs - Speedtech R/C - Team Slant EyEs - KyoshoForum.com
Just a question for those familiar with the different brand shock oils. I'm running AE 30 in front and 25 in the rear, but want to step the weight up a little bit. Was thinking about going to Losi 35 in front and 30 in rear since those oils run a little softer than AE from what I'm told. Is that about a half weight difference compared to using AE 35 and 30?
__________________
Tamiya TRF - Peak Racing - BMI Racing - KO Propo - AKA - Parma - Manutech - Slapmaster Tools - Pound It Paints
Similar Threads