PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

i think the bearings were all rubber sealed its more important with offroad cars and i think they acknowledge that fact

i havent heard of running updates untill now but i am not surprised they made changes on mtx3 also

i think i used 3x14mm screws in the steering plate but dont know for sure since i just took the originals out and grabbed some longer ones

except for the slight bend in the steering plate i havent had any issues other than my repeated servo failures i think they got pretty darn close with this one

i bet one change they may make is the center diff oil its written in my kit to use 3k front and center but ive never heard of anything like that so i built mine with 5k from the start and most others i know are using 7k

chorner

cool, and I know the MTX3 has had atleast 2 running changes.

Does the kit come with the diff oil? I think I'll grab some 7k diff oil, and the XR sway bars along with the kit (assuming it comes with diff oil for the front and rear)

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

the kit comes with 3k and 1k and shock oil

but i would ditch the shock oil because it is 350 which is somewhere between 30-35wt oil i think unless you plan to use mugen oil only its just easier to start with something your familiar with personally i use trinity because i can get it anywhere

protc3

iTrader: (13)

hey guys.im new into 8th scale and am trying to get my car set up for racing,i have always done nitro onroad (1/10 scale)with little baby engines.i have a gs storm rtr.i just put 7000 wt oil in center diff,5000 front ,and 1000 rear.that is what some people were telling me but i dont really understand the 3 diff set up.my track has a few decent jumps.its mostly small mogles that always put me on my back.lol,can you guys help

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

i dont know too much about it yet

but my understanding is thicker oil gives more traction

i use 3k front 5k center and 1k rear

best advice is to experiment a little and see for yourself

LouisB

As far as I know:

thicker oil in the rear diff = less steering (I always use 1K)

thicker oil in the centre diff = more power to the rear wheels (makes it jump and take bumpy sections better, not sure on that, but I use 7K-10K)

thicker oil in the front diff = more on-power steering and decreases off-power steering (I use 5K)

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I have a problem with my clutch slipping and getting hot, I'm running standard Hyper 7 shoes with Kyosho 1.1mm springs and I don't know what will help, ideas?

protc3

iTrader: (13)

thanks guys,i tried my car out today and it was awesome.i still have some fine tuning to do.i managed to bend my rear shock tower so i ordered carbon fiber ones.im gonna go and race on sunday,ill let you know how i did.its gonna be a very tight weekend because off road and onroad started a point series.saturday night is onroad and sunday is offroad.i have onroad locked up,but offroad is a bit tougher.those guys are all running kania 2's and have some hot motors.ill just have to out drive them.thanks again for your help

DickemDown

iTrader: (3)

[I have a problem with my clutch slipping and getting hot, I'm running standard Hyper 7 shoes with Kyosho 1.1mm springs and I don't know what will help, ideas? [/B][/QUOTE]


i was having the same issue for over a month. i have a hyper 7 w/ a c-5, and i was destroying clutch shoes and clutch bearings quite often. the first thing i noticed after taking it apart was that the clutch nut was coming loose. i tightened it down, and the clutch shoes slipping and breaking the posts finally went away. after sevreal runs, i was running real hot, and the car's clutch looked like it was slipping again. i took it apart, and no, the clutch nut didn't loosen. rather, it was the flywheel had loosened. the car looked like it had no bottom end, but it would hit decept top end. after i took it apart (completely, i had to replace the clutch nut) and tightened down the flywheel, my problems have finally gone away.

my suggestion to you is to brake down your clutch assembly completely off of your engine, and inspect your flywheel and the clutch nut - make sure they're still a very snug fit. repack everything and crank it down. when you seal up the endbell, pay attention to how much play you have - it should have enough so that when it spools up and heats up, it doesn't bind from the heat causing it to expand.

good luck.

LouisB

I put a new flywheel on recently, but I'll check it again, I'm sure there is enough play in the clutch bell. Thanks for the tips.