XXX-4 G+ hop ups???'s
#1
XXX-4 G+ hop ups???'s
I looked thru the xxx-4 thread but was wondering if someone could let me know what hop ups i should do
I have the alum outer pivots and inner....xxx-s 1 way etc
My ? was should i run inner and outer or just the outer to make a weak spot?
Also i saw a thread about making a brace fro the diff covers,,,,i can see to find it.
Thanks all
Chris
I have the alum outer pivots and inner....xxx-s 1 way etc
My ? was should i run inner and outer or just the outer to make a weak spot?
Also i saw a thread about making a brace fro the diff covers,,,,i can see to find it.
Thanks all
Chris
#2
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by chris c
I have the alum outer pivots and inner....xxx-s 1 way etc
My ? was should i run inner and outer or just the outer to make a weak spot?
Also i saw a thread about making a brace fro the diff covers,,,,i can see to find it.
Thanks all
Chris
My ? was should i run inner and outer or just the outer to make a weak spot?
Also i saw a thread about making a brace fro the diff covers,,,,i can see to find it.
Thanks all
Chris
Something I haven't figured out yet is to keep my slipper tight. No matter what i do I havent got a good run yet lately with out it coming loose.I am going to try locktite on it next.Other than that I like mine.
#4
[QUOTE=Jammin"145]I have seen guys run both aluminum pivots inside and out,and just on the outside.I only have the outside,mainly just because I haven't bought the aluminum inners yet.ALso http://amainraceway.com sells aluminum front spindle carriers.I have yet to be there when they have them in stock but are nice.I want those more than anything.I pop the stockers just off of jumps.The pivot supports I've only broke them when I screw up and hit something.
Something I haven't figured out yet is to keep my slipper tight. No matter what i do I havent got a good run yet lately with out it coming loose.I am going to try locktite on it next.Other than that I like mine.
Thanks so much I think it will just try it and see if she breaks...
Do you have a older version xxx-4...They(losi) updated the slipper to adjust backwards so it wont come loose.
And as for racing yes thats my new addiction
Something I haven't figured out yet is to keep my slipper tight. No matter what i do I havent got a good run yet lately with out it coming loose.I am going to try locktite on it next.Other than that I like mine.
Thanks so much I think it will just try it and see if she breaks...
Do you have a older version xxx-4...They(losi) updated the slipper to adjust backwards so it wont come loose.
And as for racing yes thats my new addiction
#5
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by chris c
Do you have a older version xxx-4...They(losi) updated the slipper to adjust backwards so it wont come loose.
:
#6
the a-main raceway castor blocks are nice. the bj4 castor blocks can be modified to fit a xxx4, and you can use an actual hinge pin instead of those pin-screws.
the aluminum inner pivots look nice, but the plastic ones are cheap insurance. in a hard crash the aluminum pivots won't give and can crack out of the chassis. the plastic pivots will just give.
the aluminum inner pivots look nice, but the plastic ones are cheap insurance. in a hard crash the aluminum pivots won't give and can crack out of the chassis. the plastic pivots will just give.
#7
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Originally Posted by RussB
the a-main raceway castor blocks are nice. the bj4 castor blocks can be modified to fit a xxx4, and you can use an actual hinge pin instead of those pin-screws.
the aluminum inner pivots look nice, but the plastic ones are cheap insurance. in a hard crash the aluminum pivots won't give and can crack out of the chassis. the plastic pivots will just give.
the aluminum inner pivots look nice, but the plastic ones are cheap insurance. in a hard crash the aluminum pivots won't give and can crack out of the chassis. the plastic pivots will just give.
Cheers
#9
drill out the hole where the cvd passes through with a 1/2" bit otherwise the cvd won't pass through it, although this step may be optional if you run front universals.
drill out the hinge pin hole on the castor block and the hinge pin hole in the arm with the appropriate sized bit for a standard size hinge pin. you'll want to find the closest length pin and shim up the slop.
and yeah, it's much cheaper than the $39, the bj4 parts cost $19.99 and i had the necessary spacers and hinge pins in my misc crap. it also beefs up the front end quite a bit since there's an actual hinge pin there.
drill out the hinge pin hole on the castor block and the hinge pin hole in the arm with the appropriate sized bit for a standard size hinge pin. you'll want to find the closest length pin and shim up the slop.
and yeah, it's much cheaper than the $39, the bj4 parts cost $19.99 and i had the necessary spacers and hinge pins in my misc crap. it also beefs up the front end quite a bit since there's an actual hinge pin there.