R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-24-2007, 10:35 PM   #16
Tech Initiate
AZRCaddict's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Where Racing Was Fun
Posts: 44
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)

Originally Posted by schmidt452

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
I'm printing this off and using it tomorrow to break in my new Jammin' motor.

I think using the WOT could work good but so you dont put so much stress on your servo and running your battery low why not shut off the battery right after you have it set at WOT?
Team EMB
AZRCaddict is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Engine Break in Method uniquexme Nitro On-Road 25 07-27-2006 05:44 PM
Engine break in method kahuna2793 Electric Off-Road 8 05-10-2006 06:16 AM
Can someone explain to me this method of break-in? B.LaFrance Nitro On-Road 11 11-10-2005 05:44 AM
what break-in method 2ffu Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 2 12-20-2004 06:16 PM
best break-in method SalvadoriRacing Electric On-Road 1 01-24-2004 06:56 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:44 AM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0