mr4bx vs Bj4
#16
Tech Elite
when i bought my bx i bought a bunch of parts, i have had some pretty good crashes and the cas was ok, i did manage to break the shock tower. (high speed traction roll into the wall) i doubled both of them up and no problems, i also broke a front shock shaft. if anyone does and doesn't have extra, the assoc blue shock shaft works just fine, actually even better then the stock ones. no side slope, you will need to use the b4 shock pistons because the shaft is just slightly bigger around. i would also recommend the new alum front hinge pin brace. i have broke one of the stock graphite one. ( i crash a lot) lol if your running a high bite blue groove track, try the assoc red rear spring and the assoc blue front spring with 30/35 wt oil.
#17
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
For Yokomo parts, use RC Champ (listed on this forum in the manufacturers section.
You usually get a reply in like 10 minutes, and shipping to Australia was never more than 3 working days. Fantastic.
And the prices are great. I'm even buying my proline tires from him now.
You usually get a reply in like 10 minutes, and shipping to Australia was never more than 3 working days. Fantastic.
And the prices are great. I'm even buying my proline tires from him now.
#18
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
If the diffs need rebuilt more often are you talking the works, diff balls, rings, thrust assembly?
Or are you guys just saying take apart, clean, inspect, reassemble?
If it's a full rebuild, on 2 diffs, and it has to be done frequently, that could get expensive.
Thanks!
JC
Or are you guys just saying take apart, clean, inspect, reassemble?
If it's a full rebuild, on 2 diffs, and it has to be done frequently, that could get expensive.
Thanks!
JC
#19
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Bike racer
If the diffs need rebuilt more often are you talking the works, diff balls, rings, thrust assembly?
Or are you guys just saying take apart, clean, inspect, reassemble?
If it's a full rebuild, on 2 diffs, and it has to be done frequently, that could get expensive.
Thanks!
JC
Or are you guys just saying take apart, clean, inspect, reassemble?
If it's a full rebuild, on 2 diffs, and it has to be done frequently, that could get expensive.
Thanks!
JC
#20
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Over one season, I only ever cleaned and re-greased the diff. I never used new parts and it was fine.
The problem is that the diff goes off over ONE MEETING in very dusty conditions - so your final the car will not be performing as well. I used strategically placed foam to help seal the diff housing and that helped considerably.
For me the only real qualm was if dirt/rock got into the car it would work its way between the rear drive belt and pulley. If that happened it was race over. It occurred about once every 6 races.
So even if the car is stronger (it is), drives exeptionally well (it does), looks great, and is a pleasure to work on, finishing the race is crucial. That's why I drive a BJ4.
The problem is that the diff goes off over ONE MEETING in very dusty conditions - so your final the car will not be performing as well. I used strategically placed foam to help seal the diff housing and that helped considerably.
For me the only real qualm was if dirt/rock got into the car it would work its way between the rear drive belt and pulley. If that happened it was race over. It occurred about once every 6 races.
So even if the car is stronger (it is), drives exeptionally well (it does), looks great, and is a pleasure to work on, finishing the race is crucial. That's why I drive a BJ4.
#23
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Bike racer
Thanks for the info guys.
So, are you guys racing outdoors, or indoors? I race indoors mostly, and probably not 4 wheel when I race outdoors, so the tracks are not loose, and too dusty, so I would hope for a little more longevity.
JC
So, are you guys racing outdoors, or indoors? I race indoors mostly, and probably not 4 wheel when I race outdoors, so the tracks are not loose, and too dusty, so I would hope for a little more longevity.
JC
#24
Originally Posted by Eggyolkeo
I'm racing outdoor. I think if I was indoor I'd still have my Yoke.....
This pic gives you an idea of the surface I race on that just kills the Yokomo! I'm almost certain I didn't finish this race.....
This pic gives you an idea of the surface I race on that just kills the Yokomo! I'm almost certain I didn't finish this race.....
#25
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Have you got a Yokomo Jelly?
I'm just speaking from experience. I have no reason to lie. In those conditions I would DNF 1 in 2 races. At the worlds I'm sure they had time to rebuild each race, and would have surely closed up the drivetrain with foam or lexan covers.
All I'm saying is that the BJ4 is far less prone to these issues, if prone at all. The Yokomo is great, but has this as a major weakness. I don't care about the worlds drivers, I'm talking as an everyday club racer and from my own experience.
I'm just speaking from experience. I have no reason to lie. In those conditions I would DNF 1 in 2 races. At the worlds I'm sure they had time to rebuild each race, and would have surely closed up the drivetrain with foam or lexan covers.
All I'm saying is that the BJ4 is far less prone to these issues, if prone at all. The Yokomo is great, but has this as a major weakness. I don't care about the worlds drivers, I'm talking as an everyday club racer and from my own experience.
#26
Originally Posted by Eggyolkeo
Have you got a Yokomo Jelly?
I'm just speaking from experience. I have no reason to lie. In those conditions I would DNF 1 in 2 races. At the worlds I'm sure they had time to rebuild each race, and would have surely closed up the drivetrain with foam or lexan covers.
All I'm saying is that the BJ4 is far less prone to these issues, if prone at all. The Yokomo is great, but has this as a major weakness. I don't care about the worlds drivers, I'm talking as an everyday club racer and from my own experience.
I'm just speaking from experience. I have no reason to lie. In those conditions I would DNF 1 in 2 races. At the worlds I'm sure they had time to rebuild each race, and would have surely closed up the drivetrain with foam or lexan covers.
All I'm saying is that the BJ4 is far less prone to these issues, if prone at all. The Yokomo is great, but has this as a major weakness. I don't care about the worlds drivers, I'm talking as an everyday club racer and from my own experience.
#27
Yeah its not so bad if sealed up correctly....
#28
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Although ive personally only been in the off-road scene for about 3yrs...Im a 17yr brat with parent’s money ive had a losi xx-4, losi xxx-4, bj4 (original), yokomo super dogfighter 2 special and regular, and a kyosho zx-5. If you really want to start racing in 4wd completive then there is only 2 ways 2 go. Bj4 worlds or a lazer. Either way you’re going to spend 450-550 on either. Bj4 worlds comes ready to go for about 485 shipped 2 your door and have excellent customer service not 2 mention anything you need for it will be at your door in 2 days for about 6 bucks. The lazer you need 2 shop around a bit and buy a few extras but you can get all but alumin knuckles from amainhobbies. Personally I got the worlds kit for my zx-5 but a guy at my track has the carbon works kit. Either way you will spend the same. There both great cars and perform alsome. Hope this helps
#29
i agree zx5 is very strong. needs a couple if hop-ups, but very easy to make it bullet proof.
in 5 meets and a few days practice, only thing i broke has been 2 shock towers.
in 5 meets and a few days practice, only thing i broke has been 2 shock towers.