ACADEMY New SB V2 4WD Buggy
#121
Tech Regular
Shaffer - don't worry about it, man. Glad I could help. Ya, it was a little hectic, but that was totally not the reason I had problems with that stupid straightaway! Next layout can we forget about the straight?
To add to Cain's list, I have driven most of the 4wds on the market and I would say the v2 handles better than others. It steers like crazy and bumps don't make it freak like some other wheelers.
To add to Cain's list, I have driven most of the 4wds on the market and I would say the v2 handles better than others. It steers like crazy and bumps don't make it freak like some other wheelers.
#122
Tech Apprentice
Thanks!!
Thanks for the info Cain!! I've called ultimate, but they don't have the kit. Stormer Hobbies has it for 239.00, so I'll get it there. I'll be sure to let you know how it runs once I get it! Thanks again.
#124
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by DanGriffin
ya, my car was super quick. If I didn't have so many problems with straightaways I might have been more dangerous
Car performed awesomely all weekend though.
Car performed awesomely all weekend though.
#125
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
BADXLT: MRC/ACADEMY has aluminum shocks for this car kit.
Part#'s:
RG T011 (rear)
VXB T004 (front)
If Stormer doesnt have it in stock, give us a call @ the below number. These are the same shocks that all of our team drivers use, including DAN.
Dave Graboski
RC Car Product Manager
Model Rectifier Corporation
Phone: 732-225-2100 Ext.214
[email protected]
Visit us on the web at www.modelrectifier.com
Part#'s:
RG T011 (rear)
VXB T004 (front)
If Stormer doesnt have it in stock, give us a call @ the below number. These are the same shocks that all of our team drivers use, including DAN.
Dave Graboski
RC Car Product Manager
Model Rectifier Corporation
Phone: 732-225-2100 Ext.214
[email protected]
Visit us on the web at www.modelrectifier.com
#126
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
Hey folks.
Although I didnt have the best of luck this weekend, seems I had a little problem with letting the magic smoke out of the speedos in my 2wd car, I managed to get some good hard runs in on the car and knock out a pretty decent setup.
Track was a highbite, smooth surface. Smaller size track. Tire of choice was slicks in losi pink compound.
Front I ran Associated #2 pistons (roughly the same as the academy 2 hole pistons)* with 40wt. Associated green. Outside on shock tower, middle on arm. Camber link was in the #1 position on the tower. Arms Level
Rear I had Associated #1 pistons with 32.5wt oil, academy white spring. 3-A tower and arm mount locs. 2-b caber locs, (2 washers under hub ball stud)*. Bones Level.
Also had front diff with oneway on the shaft. Standard battery layout, 6 cells on left, electronics on the right. Rear hubs were ground down .030 on front and back to allow for wheelbase adjustment, ran hubs in the middle position.
*Associated #2 pistons fall in between Academy 3 hole and 2 hole pistons in regard to hole size. Roughly a Losi 55 1/2 size hole.
*Ground top of rear hub carrier down about an 1/8'' to allow for ball stud height adjustment.
Im sure im forgetting something. Ill edit my post if i remember it.
Give it a whirl, let me know what you guys think.
Glen Bean
Although I didnt have the best of luck this weekend, seems I had a little problem with letting the magic smoke out of the speedos in my 2wd car, I managed to get some good hard runs in on the car and knock out a pretty decent setup.
Track was a highbite, smooth surface. Smaller size track. Tire of choice was slicks in losi pink compound.
Front I ran Associated #2 pistons (roughly the same as the academy 2 hole pistons)* with 40wt. Associated green. Outside on shock tower, middle on arm. Camber link was in the #1 position on the tower. Arms Level
Rear I had Associated #1 pistons with 32.5wt oil, academy white spring. 3-A tower and arm mount locs. 2-b caber locs, (2 washers under hub ball stud)*. Bones Level.
Also had front diff with oneway on the shaft. Standard battery layout, 6 cells on left, electronics on the right. Rear hubs were ground down .030 on front and back to allow for wheelbase adjustment, ran hubs in the middle position.
*Associated #2 pistons fall in between Academy 3 hole and 2 hole pistons in regard to hole size. Roughly a Losi 55 1/2 size hole.
*Ground top of rear hub carrier down about an 1/8'' to allow for ball stud height adjustment.
Im sure im forgetting something. Ill edit my post if i remember it.
Give it a whirl, let me know what you guys think.
Glen Bean
#127
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
badxlt: On my last SB V2 buggy and SB V1 Pro I ran Academy shocks. These in my opinion are probably the smoothest shocks I have used and extremely easy to set for non-threaded shocks. I ran the teflon piston kit, I believe it was #3 and #4s for piston sizes. Don't go anything smaller holed, as you might as well be running touring car with your buggy from what I experienced. From my past experiences and discussions with other owners pretty much any of the latest buggy shocks will fit with alittle work and limitting. Its just much easier to go with whats made for the vehicle and they are quality made too.
If you are in need of spring rates not available from Academy, AE springs work well, just use the lower shock cups and I think ball ends from regular B3 / B4 AE shocks or even RPM versions. These work fine as well.
For anyone new with the SB V1 or V2 series of vehicles, you should also checkout the rc10b4 forum. It has alot of information on the V1 in particular from the first time it was in the USA. Lots of info on tips, tricks, mods, etc.
If you are in need of spring rates not available from Academy, AE springs work well, just use the lower shock cups and I think ball ends from regular B3 / B4 AE shocks or even RPM versions. These work fine as well.
For anyone new with the SB V1 or V2 series of vehicles, you should also checkout the rc10b4 forum. It has alot of information on the V1 in particular from the first time it was in the USA. Lots of info on tips, tricks, mods, etc.
#128
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
wow thanks guys this is great. hey dave did you used to work for trinity?
becouse i used to call about my spyder and talk to a guy named Dave Graboski and he was super cool he put up with all my stupid qwestions.
i have one more for you all. what parts should i stock up on. theres no part suport here and im going to be getting this car in two weeks.when i get payed so if you can tell me what all breaks the most ill get them at first and hope for the best.
becouse i used to call about my spyder and talk to a guy named Dave Graboski and he was super cool he put up with all my stupid qwestions.
i have one more for you all. what parts should i stock up on. theres no part suport here and im going to be getting this car in two weeks.when i get payed so if you can tell me what all breaks the most ill get them at first and hope for the best.
#130
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
badxlt - Although I have yet to break anything (and I like to drive punched) I would say it would be a good idea to have a few spares of the following:
Part #
VX004 - Front steering hubs
STP02 - Kit standard 5 degree castor blocks, or SB001 - optional 7 degree castor blocks.
VX011 - Step bolts for the castoblocks/steering hubs
VXT001 - front arms
VXT002 - rear arms
VP005 - Diff and Bevel gear set
While none of these parts are a weakness on the car, it never is a bad idea to have some backups in case of a major wreck. This car is VERY sturdy. I found out this previous weekend from some huge tumbles on a big air track. Car came away asking for more
Glen Bean
Part #
VX004 - Front steering hubs
STP02 - Kit standard 5 degree castor blocks, or SB001 - optional 7 degree castor blocks.
VX011 - Step bolts for the castoblocks/steering hubs
VXT001 - front arms
VXT002 - rear arms
VP005 - Diff and Bevel gear set
While none of these parts are a weakness on the car, it never is a bad idea to have some backups in case of a major wreck. This car is VERY sturdy. I found out this previous weekend from some huge tumbles on a big air track. Car came away asking for more
Glen Bean
#131
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
BADXLT: Yes I am the same Dave that used to work for Trinity. The Trinity thing didnt work out but I did land on my feet and am now working for MRC. I am extremely happy here. I'm sure your questions werent stupid. The truck you were asking questions on was STUPID!!! But in all seriousness to answer your question, the SBV2 like GLen said is SUPER durable. The regular front end parts that you would break on any car would be your best bet.
GLEN: The car kit comes with 7deg castor blocks, the optional ones are the 5 degree ones. Its ok...I'll forgive you!
GLEN: The car kit comes with 7deg castor blocks, the optional ones are the 5 degree ones. Its ok...I'll forgive you!
#133
Tech Regular
Glen - awesome to have you on the team.
hope you have better luck with the next batch of speedo's
hope you have better luck with the next batch of speedo's
#134
Guest
Academt ST PRO V2 Truggy
Let me know what you think. It was ripping on the track and I can whip it damn near sideways in the air over triples!!!