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Old 07-10-2006, 11:20 PM   #16
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I used to run for academy and the SB line with a few simple mods (less on the V2) can work quite well and probably is the most durable brand of 4wd race level buggies available. The main thing I did to my V2 was to get better shocks, titanium turnbuckles, and do a few simple mods for more steering and rear droop and I was all set.

The kyosho does give great bang for the buck, main issue I just keep hearing though is durability. To me, ultimately if you can finish the race really doesn't matter what all hopups you get if you are fixing something all the time.

I would say if you are just looking to start out, the academy is worth a look along with the kyosho for performance to price. Also, you can from what i was told use academy rear wheels on the B4 axles with the right hex.
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:20 AM   #17
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I see that teh XXX4 is not really mentioned here. And for it's durability, I run mine with a 9x2 mod, gtx and 3800 matched cells, I have raced it hard, and hit lots of stuff and broke 3 front a arms, a screw and 1 front differential, and part of the servo saver. and I broke one of the arms, servo saver part and the diff at the same time, flew into a sheet of plywood full tilt about 6 feet in the air 7 feet from take off and landed about 25+/- feet from the apex of the jump, still finished the race at Peel-It. http://community.webshots.com/photo/...48931303iELBcv (thanks afarrow)I hit the top corner furthest from the jump on that upper section, and landed about where that corner marshall is, it was dope. So, the XXX4 is a good truck. And I race it on rough tracks and smooth tracks, and it does just fine.
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Old 07-11-2006, 11:19 AM   #18
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I'd still recommend a Lazer just for price for the performance and upgradability but here goes my super long post...

I owned a XXX-4 G+ and once you upgrade the inner and outer hinge pin pivots to aluminum it's pretty darn tough. I didn't run double shock towers because I'd rather risk a shock tower than my chassis. The most common broken part for me was the front axle carrier (the O shaped part, not the steering knuckle) because the plastic is thinnest there. Big jumps take their toll even when landing correctly and that part would eventually fail.

I was warned about the XXX-4's preference for smooth tracks, but I ignored it initially thinking I could overcome it with setup changes. Well, after many racing outings it seems to be true. I don't know if it's the wider chassis (due to the belt tunnel), or the weight distribution, or shocks, but it just lacks something when compared to other buggies in the rutted areas of the track I ran on.

It's a good 4wd car but not a great car in my opinion. Here is an article on how to make it tougher: http://www.teamlosi.com/Articles/Art...ArticleID=1349

I bought an early run of the Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 and I eventually sold it. Since I propped the Lazer up earlier and ripped on the Losi a little I'll rip on the Lazer a little to balance it out.

The Lazer drove way better than my XXX-4 G+. Tons more steering, and it handled the bumps better. Something no one seems to mention about this car is that the build manual is terrible. Forget the high quality AE and Losi style instructions with numbered bags that are opened in a specific order. The Kyosho has numbered bags but you literally will have all of them opened less than halfway through the build. Some parts are pictured but they don't tell you if the part comes from a bag or an unnumbered parts tree. You kind of have to search for the right shaped thing in your pile 'o parts. The quality of the Kyosho plastic is lower in my opinion. Everything is very flexible. I guess they designed it that way, but I was used to Losi and AE tough feeling plastics. I was initially worried that the car would have too much flex.

After my first race outing with my new vehicle my chassis developed cracks. Apparently my batteries were not firmly secured and the miniscule amount of play (<5mm) allowed the batteries to slam into the chassis on big jump landings. I literally broke nothing on the car, but I was concerned that the chassis problem was going to be repeated since my buddy with the same car had the same problem that day. Other weak parts were the rear hub carriers that would break on the molding lines, and the weird A shaped thing that holds the shock tower people would break a lot.

Parts availability was solely online for me. My large sized local hobby shop refused to order from Kyosho becauswe of Kyosho's business practices (unknown to me). I hated having to order everything online but I thought I'd give it a shot. The only saving grace was that the plastic parts are SUPER cheap. Another bad thing that is probably a litte better by now is parts availability. Anything with metal in it (i.e. Kyosho springs) is insanely overpriced in the 10th scale world though. I never figured that out. The Kyosho also has a weird color scheme for their springs that includes no mention of spring rates. Maybe someone figured out by now if the puke green spring is stiffer than the barf yellow one.

As of the time I sold my kit that information was strangely unavailable and people were using AE and Losi springs instead. Since the Kyosho shock bodies/springs are probably metric sized the AE springs are actually a tad tight on the shock body and the Losi springs are a tad big (Yea I tried both). You can make them work but I liked everything to fit perfect. Kyosho also uses their own hex hubs that are not compatible with AE or Losi.

If you have a bajillion dollars the BJ4 and the new Yok looks cool. I couldn't afford those. Ooples (awesome) reviews are as close as I can get hehe.

All cars need some kind of upgrade to make them tougher for newbies. The Kyosho at around $330 has the ability to be tough if you add in aluminum upgrade parts.

Anyway if you made it this far into the post congradulations. I think I'm done!
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:34 PM   #19
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I agree with FBR. If your buggy and truck are Losis, then you might want to get a XXX-4G+ or XX-4WE or X-factory X-5.
If you have a TC4 for touring, you might want a BJ4.

Parts compatibility between your rigs can save you a bit of headache.

Otherwise, I'd say get whatever you can find lots of parts for.
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:13 PM   #20
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post was kinda long winded but helpful. thanks
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:50 PM   #21
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Well, when i get the money.....the Predator x10 is where its at in my opion. & i think this because, if you buy a Bj4we, Yokomo or an Xfactory X5 you'll be spending at least $500, so from ultraline motorsports you can get what i think is the best car i've ever driven still for $500. Or you could get an XRS, which is basicaly a Predator x10 but instead of graphite composite they use plastic moulding. oh & the transmision is garunteed!!!

when you put a Predator x10 down you'll be amazed....no bs.
hope this helped.
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Old 07-14-2006, 03:08 PM   #22
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Love my X10... So far it's been a really ard choice between the X10 and the BJ4we ..... My Yok. is sweet too...but prefer the shaft setup...... but I think I prefer the X10 over most ....handles great.....
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