I have to disagree with your break-in method's. First and for most you should dis-assemble the engine and check for any small burrs or other small pieces of machining that might have been missed during assembly at the manufacturer. After inspection is done, use some Blaster (more on this at the end of my post) on all the internal parts. use RTV "sensor safe" silicone to seal everything. Back plate, carb to case, pinch bolt for the carb and if it has a boost chamber, the fittings for that as well.
Next step would be to add fuel, you'll want to prime the engine BEFORE you turn the engine over. You can do this by blowing into the exhaust until you see fuel going through the fuel line into the carb. Now your ready to turn it over. The next step is VERY important, you'll need to heat cycle the engine at least 4 times. What does heat cycling do?? It expands and retracts the case, p/s, head, and all internal parts. This is important to do because the metal can change it's shape or distort ever so little on the first few times it is heated up. The metal can disfigure or change it's shape the first few times it is initally heated. After the engine has been heateda few times it will maintain or won't change anymore, but will on the first few runs. If you don't heat cycle, the metal doesn't "find" it's final shape and will cause more wear as your breaking it in.
What you want to do is run the engine for enough time to reach about 200 degrees then shut the engine off and turn the flywheel until you've reached "bottom" dead center. At this point you need to let the engine "completely" cool down. Once cooled off, start engine and bring up to 200 again. repeat this 4 times.
After your finished heat cycling the engine your ready to start driving the car at a pretty rich setting. You will have to change the needle setting. You'll want the engine to be 4 stroking or at 40-50% power (rich enough so it won't clear out). Run it like this for 3-4 tanks. You can pull 50-75% throttle as long as the engine doesn't rev up much. After the 4th tank you can start to lean it out until your close to 60-70% power. You can run the engine at this setting for a 2-3 tanks. Once you've reach this point you can set the high end needle to optimum power or so temp is good. 220max. THEN the low end needle.
I've been doing all my engines like this for years and they always have ran great and had good compression after 6-7 gallons. My latest is a O.S. V01B and after only 1 gallon I've seen the temp going down and the power going up. On my last run my buddy checked the temp and it was 210 and bottomend was insane, topend was as fast as any car on the track. CRCRC in Ohio.
I use 30% Trinity Platinum with some castor oil added.
One thing I've been using is PB Blaster. It displaces moisture, remains on the metal surfaces and helps restore or maintain rubber seal's and "o" rings. What I do is, spray a shot in the tanks BEFORE I break-in an engine so it will mix with the fuel for the first few heat cycles. I also use it in place of after-run oil. It acually works better then off the shelf after-run oil because it displaces moisture!!!! After-run oil doesn't, it only coats the parts to try and protect them from rust. You should try some, I think you'll find the results astounding!!! You can find it in the automotive section at Walmart...
Hope this helps...
Last edited by GregH; 01-09-2003 at 07:36 AM.