Setup for Hyper 8 Pro
#1
Setup for Hyper 8 Pro
Hi. any one know of any web site that has setup sheets for Hobao/Ofna Hyper 8?
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
H8 Setup sheets
I don't really know of a place that post setup sheets. Setups yes, sheets no.
I ran:
Diffs = 3K - 5K - 2K front to rear.
Shocks = 1.4 pistons all the way around with 45 Losi in the front and 40 Losi in the rear.
Start with stock pin placement and the shocks in the second hole from the inside on the towers.
Everyone who has driven it says it was the easiest car to drive. Now they have all made their changes for their own likes and dislikes. Those setups are all different.
Try that and then go from there.
TEX
I ran:
Diffs = 3K - 5K - 2K front to rear.
Shocks = 1.4 pistons all the way around with 45 Losi in the front and 40 Losi in the rear.
Start with stock pin placement and the shocks in the second hole from the inside on the towers.
Everyone who has driven it says it was the easiest car to drive. Now they have all made their changes for their own likes and dislikes. Those setups are all different.
Try that and then go from there.
TEX
#3
The car is the same as it was out of the box exept the diffs.
I use 10000 7000 and 1000. front to rear
My problem is that i need more steering.
I use 25 in both front and rear shocks everything else is out of the box..
I use 10000 7000 and 1000. front to rear
My problem is that i need more steering.
I use 25 in both front and rear shocks everything else is out of the box..
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
change your diffs from 10k, 7k, and 1k to 7k (F), 5k (C), 1k (R).
you have no steering because you are runnig such a thick oil in the front. That may work for big open tracks with lots of sweepers, but on a track with slow corners it will not give you the steering you need.
you have no steering because you are runnig such a thick oil in the front. That may work for big open tracks with lots of sweepers, but on a track with slow corners it will not give you the steering you need.
#5
i was told by paul coleman that the car really likes the 3,000 3,000 greae or 1,000 front to rear i will be testing this wed. nite. i started the car with 5,000 7,000 2,000 and didn't like it so i went to 5,000 5,000 2,000 and this seemed to work well the car had a lot of on power steering. i will post what i think of the 3,3,1 soon. i have a similar setup to tex with 1.4 pistons but i run lighter oil 40 in front 30 in rear i will also be testing 37.5 or 35 in front with 30 in rear. i have my front shocks in the middle hole up front and inside on arm. and rear on middle inside up top and inside on arm. i'am running 20 degree caster blocks with 6 degree kick up will soon try 7 degree. in rear i have drilled out the camber link inside on the shock tower and also running the narrow rear width. i have been happy so far and every step to this current setup has made me faster. but hey tex i would like to find out about the tracks you race on and setup ideas cause you seem to have a pretty good handle on this car as well.
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
SRH in Dallas, TX
Rocket,
I run on a blown out, slick, indoor clay track. It is 175 x 70 with alot of hairpin turns. Lots of turn and jump a double stuff where you might loose traction and diff out if you are not just right.
In order to get more turn in steering the 3K was very good up front in the stock configuration.
Now I am running much stiffer springs. Mugen Blue (18.5) in the rear and Xray Dark Blue Hards in the front. That is prob why my oils are so heavy. It keeps me on top of the ruts and holes.
For tight racing I also have a one-way in the front of my car. I run 1 degree of toe in on the front to get the car to pull hard and straight out of the corner. Right now my car is 4K-5K-5K front to rear.
Tex
I run on a blown out, slick, indoor clay track. It is 175 x 70 with alot of hairpin turns. Lots of turn and jump a double stuff where you might loose traction and diff out if you are not just right.
In order to get more turn in steering the 3K was very good up front in the stock configuration.
Now I am running much stiffer springs. Mugen Blue (18.5) in the rear and Xray Dark Blue Hards in the front. That is prob why my oils are so heavy. It keeps me on top of the ruts and holes.
For tight racing I also have a one-way in the front of my car. I run 1 degree of toe in on the front to get the car to pull hard and straight out of the corner. Right now my car is 4K-5K-5K front to rear.
Tex
#7
yea tex sounds good hard pack high traction indoor usually requires heavier oils and stiffer springs
setup update, i tried the 3,3,1 combo front to rear and was very happy with it, it didn't seem to take any snap away from the car and i could just power through the ruff, as far as the other things i have tried the 37.5 oil in the front was too light and the 7 degree kick up made the front dive too much. other than that it, it is a very solid base setup for anyone running the 8. i want to run thru all the castor blocks and try the rear ackerman hole. but right now it is a wining setup for sure and the car is dialed. i let a jammin racer run it and he said it felt very similar to his car. pretty good for $150 less. i think the 8 is going to become the new working mans racer.
setup update, i tried the 3,3,1 combo front to rear and was very happy with it, it didn't seem to take any snap away from the car and i could just power through the ruff, as far as the other things i have tried the 37.5 oil in the front was too light and the 7 degree kick up made the front dive too much. other than that it, it is a very solid base setup for anyone running the 8. i want to run thru all the castor blocks and try the rear ackerman hole. but right now it is a wining setup for sure and the car is dialed. i let a jammin racer run it and he said it felt very similar to his car. pretty good for $150 less. i think the 8 is going to become the new working mans racer.
#8
#9
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I am running 4k 6k 2k from front to rear, drilled rear camber link to the inside of the tower , 4.5 degree toe block in the rear of the car with 3 degrees of anti squat, inside hole on the arms for the front and rear shock locations, front tower the shocks are moved to the third hole out from the inside, the rear tower the shocks are in the fourth hole out from the inside, for the shocks I am running drilled piston front and rear with a #53 bit, front shocks have 50 weight trinity oil with kyosho sp2 dark blue springs, rear shocks I am running 32.5 trinity oil with kyosho light blue springs, if you use the kyosho springs you also have to use the kyosho spring retainers to get proper ride height.
the car worked really well this week at pro series, quall points killed me I ran a run that would of put me in the 7th spot in the a-main but due to quall points I ended up 4th in the c-main still not all that bad considering that their was 98 buggies
the car worked really well this week at pro series, quall points killed me I ran a run that would of put me in the 7th spot in the a-main but due to quall points I ended up 4th in the c-main still not all that bad considering that their was 98 buggies
#10
What do you mean by this?
i have drilled out the camber link inside on the shock tower
i have drilled out the camber link inside on the shock tower
#12
Is Kortz and degani setup sheet posted anywhere?
#13
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Kortz and Greg’s set ups are on www.sgrid.com the set up that I posted is kortz's except I am running 3 degrees of anti squat