Problem with starting engine - Pull start
04-25-2006, 11:33 PM
#16
I'm going to make the purchase tomorrow. Question will now come down to the batteries
Is it necessary to get 3000 Mah? I'm not that lazy and could do with a recharger overnight.
Usually how long would you last if your using a standard 1800 mah? and do i still need to prime the engine before i put it on the starter box?
Is it necessary to get 3000 Mah? I'm not that lazy and could do with a recharger overnight.
Usually how long would you last if your using a standard 1800 mah? and do i still need to prime the engine before i put it on the starter box?
04-26-2006, 07:33 AM
#17
Ok, your best bet is to buy a jell cell. they cost about as much as one cheap battery pack. about 20 bucks and a wall charger which is about 10 bucks. charge it overnight and you'll never have to worry about it dying. I've gone through 4 race days, using 2 starter boxes connected to the same battery and it's still got plenty of juice.
That reminds me, I should charge that before sunday!
That reminds me, I should charge that before sunday!
05-02-2006, 03:52 AM
#18
thought i will share this, got it from platnum - thanks for taking time to reply to my message - found it very useful for all noods out there
Well, if the engine doesn't start easily try removing the glow plug and dropping a SMALL amount of nitro fuel straight into the carb. Open the throttle once just to get the fuel down. If you try to start the engine and are met with an excessive amount of resistance, you've used too much fuel and now must remove the glow plug to remove the excess fuel or else you will damage the engine. This is called "Hydrolocking." It is when the engine's combustion chamber becomes flooded with fuel and cannot reach the top of it's stroke. Air is compressible, but liquid is not (Unless you count about .1% volume decrease over the entire volume of fluid as compressable). Remove the glow plug in a situation where the engine becomes hydrolocked and tip the engine upsidown while rotating the crank to allow extra fuel out of the combustion chamber.
The low speed needle may be the culprit as well. If you aren't getting a spec of fuel out of the engine when you try to start it, retry my priming trick (Finger over the stinger) and give the engine a few cranks. If fuel is already reaching the engine, richen up the low speed needle (Which is located in the center of the carburators throttle valve) by turning the screw clockwise about 1/8th of a turn. If there is too much fuel coming out of the engine when you try to start the engine (Which would seem uncommon unless the engine starts, garbles, then dies) try leaning out the low speed needle about 1/8th turn.
The glow plug could also be a problem, but it's more likely that the glow plug would become a problem if the engine ran with the ignitor on then died when you removed it.
Another thing many people overlook is air leaks. Check the fuel tank and fuel lines for the formation of strange air bubbles. If you see air bubbles form in strange places you might want to try sealing it with silicon sealant. Fuel tubing can be easily changed. If you're in doubt replace the fuel tubing.
As for starter boxes, they are good but can be a bit un-needed. If you're a casual basher you don't need a starter box. They use either a 12V gel cell or two 7.2V NiCD or NiMH packs. You would need enough torque out of the box to start the engine regularly. Twin 550 motors are the norm, but larger 750's and similar motors are also pretty strong. Make sure when you get the starter box (Even if you get a pre-built box) to check the polarity of the motor wires. People always get confused when their motors don't start and run good, but they don't know that the starter box just cranked their engines in reverse. 2 stroke engines will work in reverse, but the timing will be off and they won't run very good at all (If at all).
Sorry if the reply got a bit long, but now if you need any referance you can print this out and keep it!
Feel free to ask anymore questions you have.
Well, if the engine doesn't start easily try removing the glow plug and dropping a SMALL amount of nitro fuel straight into the carb. Open the throttle once just to get the fuel down. If you try to start the engine and are met with an excessive amount of resistance, you've used too much fuel and now must remove the glow plug to remove the excess fuel or else you will damage the engine. This is called "Hydrolocking." It is when the engine's combustion chamber becomes flooded with fuel and cannot reach the top of it's stroke. Air is compressible, but liquid is not (Unless you count about .1% volume decrease over the entire volume of fluid as compressable). Remove the glow plug in a situation where the engine becomes hydrolocked and tip the engine upsidown while rotating the crank to allow extra fuel out of the combustion chamber.
The low speed needle may be the culprit as well. If you aren't getting a spec of fuel out of the engine when you try to start it, retry my priming trick (Finger over the stinger) and give the engine a few cranks. If fuel is already reaching the engine, richen up the low speed needle (Which is located in the center of the carburators throttle valve) by turning the screw clockwise about 1/8th of a turn. If there is too much fuel coming out of the engine when you try to start the engine (Which would seem uncommon unless the engine starts, garbles, then dies) try leaning out the low speed needle about 1/8th turn.
The glow plug could also be a problem, but it's more likely that the glow plug would become a problem if the engine ran with the ignitor on then died when you removed it.
Another thing many people overlook is air leaks. Check the fuel tank and fuel lines for the formation of strange air bubbles. If you see air bubbles form in strange places you might want to try sealing it with silicon sealant. Fuel tubing can be easily changed. If you're in doubt replace the fuel tubing.
As for starter boxes, they are good but can be a bit un-needed. If you're a casual basher you don't need a starter box. They use either a 12V gel cell or two 7.2V NiCD or NiMH packs. You would need enough torque out of the box to start the engine regularly. Twin 550 motors are the norm, but larger 750's and similar motors are also pretty strong. Make sure when you get the starter box (Even if you get a pre-built box) to check the polarity of the motor wires. People always get confused when their motors don't start and run good, but they don't know that the starter box just cranked their engines in reverse. 2 stroke engines will work in reverse, but the timing will be off and they won't run very good at all (If at all).
Sorry if the reply got a bit long, but now if you need any referance you can print this out and keep it!
Feel free to ask anymore questions you have.
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