Changing the position of the motor doesn't change the position of the rear roll center, BUT.... it does change the way the car rolls, which is exactly the same effect as a change in roll center.
Keep in mind that an electric motor is - relative to the rest of the car - a big, heavy flywheel doing 40.000 RPM. It's got a huge effect on the car's handling.
The way I think about it is as follows
the way the car rolls in the corner is affected by the relationship between the roll centre and the CoG, the futher these 2 points are away from each other the more roll you will get (assuming that the roll centre is below the CoG)
so to get more body roll you can raise the weight in the car, or you can lower the roll centre
Not sure if that is right or not, but thats how I see it
the way the car rolls in the corner is affected by the relationship between the roll centre and the CoG, the futher these 2 points are away from each other the more roll you will get (assuming that the roll centre is below the CoG)
so to get more body roll you can raise the weight in the car, or you can lower the roll centre
Not sure if that is right or not, but thats how I see it
That is 100% correct. But the motor ... it's like Animal farm: some pigs are more equal than others :-) Moving the motor is way more sensitive, because it's got the flywheel thing going on.
Just hook up a motor, hold it in your hand, and try to wiggle it. You'll feel what I'm talking about. It's called the gyro effect.
You guys did some nice work here. I like the bell crank horizontal config. That was what I was suggesting on the 1/8th buggy.
Losi should consider getting rid of the extended noses on their cars. If you land nose down the Losi digs in and flips. The Associated cars roll out and keep going. I'm a big losi fan and own no associated cars. However, this has to be the biggest drawback I have seen.
You are right about the AD2! That truck is rock solid compaired to the AD1.
I wish the wheel base adjustment was still on it. The ability to quickly adjust the wheel base is a smoking tuning option for large flowing tracks and hard 180 stuff like indoor racing.
Mafiaracers,
I think they don't call it bk3 because BK don't race that much anymore.
I don't think he races at all maybe thats wht they call it XXX CR.
I like how losi is keeping the same platform around. This way we can upgrade as we see fit.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the "new" rear end design originated @ the IFMAR Worlds because the track was super bumpy, and the BK1 rear end worked a bit better than the BK2 rear end. I've never had a problem with steering on my BK2, and the only time I was unhappy with it's performance was on a rutted and bombed to $#IT hillbilly track I once ran on. As a result, it is my understanding that smooth track performance won't be effected by this upgrade. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that if you run on a bumpy track the CR is for you -- if not -- stick with the BK2.
The Losi press release says that CR stands for "Competition Ready"...but these cars are competition ready as it is, LOL. I don't remember CR standing for anything when Losi had the XX CR and XX-T CR, but I still like the name.
CoryD - The new car should be at home on any track condition...yes, it helps a lot on bumpy and loose tracks (like the Worlds) but the new car also works well on blue groove surfaces.
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[quote=Aaron Waldron]The Losi press release says that CR stands for "Competition Ready"...but these cars are competition ready as it is, LOL. I don't remember CR standing for anything when Losi had the XX CR and XX-T CR, but I still like the name.
QUOTE]
CR stood for "Competition Ready" even back in the XX-CR days
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Hope this revision actually works this time for Losi. Been a fan of their products for years, but like AxiomJacob said, Associated will never release another product until they start losing.... or at least break even with Losi in the A-main at any major event. I for one was hoping Losi would have started over from scratch and really come out with something innovative like X-Factory is doing with their X-6. My BK2 (if you wanna call it that anymore) will only be getting that new steering rack. Maybe then it will actually turn instead of going straight when I turn the wheel. I've already spent 175$+ on my BK2 for old XXX and XXCR parts to make it 'supposedly' turn, but nothing has worked so far. I'm done spending money on new 2WD buggy kits from Losi until I see someone on the club level actually get one of these 'new' XXX CR kits to turn. Maybe then I'll consider getting the new car.
I so wish I was there to help you set up your car.Guys who complain about a XXX not turning have 2 problems.
#1 they have tried enough tires to find the RIGHT TIRE.Some tracks I have tried 10 different tires to nail the right tire.Tire is 80% of setup in steering.
#2 Besides looking at setup sheets do you REALLY KNOW your car or no?
Do you know what changing camber on YOUR car at YOUR track does???
Changing Anti Squat?,Changing rear arm location?
Any of this.If you dont then you have NOONE else to blame but yourself.
I have raced with ALOT of guys over the last 2-3 yrs at ALOT of different tracks across the U.S.
Bk1 works well on tracks with BIG JUMPS,Rough Sections or Outdoors.
Bk2 works well on tracks that are smooth,highbite and smaller jumps.
People combined these cars to get the best of BOTH WORLDS.....
I promise LAT that with my box of tires and less than an hour I could get your car to turn SOOOO much you would wanna dial steering out.
Learn the car and you wont have to spend all this money on "HYPE" parts.
Les
I think the new car is great and addresses area's that the AVERAGE racer needs on the MOST COMMON of tracks.
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Hey Aaron
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