Ybother

Hey can anyone help me?

I have a AD2 and a couple times now while running it I broke the rear pivot block..Well the last time i let a friend run it and he hit the wall and smashed it up pretty good! But anyways I have an alluminum pivot block that I bought for it that I am going to be putting on. What else should I hop-up when I do this? I have had people tell me that doing this will cause something else to break next....any advise???

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

not to jump on you, but there is an AD2 thread that has been started. Look on page 2 or use the search function.

I have heard of people breaking the rear pivot, I haven't yet considering some of my wrecks. Adding the aluminum pivot will put more stress on the arms for sure.

Just be careful because aluminum will bend before it breaks. You will wonder why your truck handles like crap and you can't fgure it out, most likely due to a bent pivot.

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Gas trucks are brittle for the most part, there is two things that will break, either the arm, or the pivot block, the arm is cheaper, and easier to change, the pivot block is a paint to change, have to unscrew teh tranny, lift it up inorder for the pivot block to come out,

One solution, dont crash

SavageSYNTH25

The aluminum pivot block is the best thing you can add to the AD2, don't worry about too much else.

Instead of breaking the pivot block, you'll either break the arm, or the ballstud in the hub carrier depending on where the impact happens. Of course, the arm is easier to change than a pivot block and using the Titanium ballstuds in the hub carriers and shock towers will eliminate the second problem.

Billy

Gotta go with ROCK Concepts on the front and rear pivot blocks. As others have said it is easier to change arms. As mentioned above go with Titanium Ball studs. And also Captured ends on the rear inside instead of Ball studs. Dubro sells some, but I recommend Mugen. The Mugen captured ends are (H0855/C0502). The captured ends(H0855) and the Pivot Balls (C0502) come separately so you you will have to order both. I ordered mine through NitroHouse. They will know what you want even if you dont have the Parts number. Locally in Calif, ARC Raceway in Murrietta carries them right on the shelf. I use them in the rear with Super Duty Turnbuckles all the way around.. I also use the rigid Grey cups that Losi is now selling (Part# 6016). Rear Shock tower Brace I use the Dace MFG. That pretty much makes bullet proof. Even I have trouble breaking it...

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Put Shumaucher "Grippa" Ball cups on any offroad vehicle you got! I forgot to mention that, i will be doing that as well. They are so much nicer then stock or RPM ones, snug fit, dont pop off, no bindage, and spend the $5 for 2 ball studs, well $10 for 4 for the rear of the truck for sure

SavageSYNTH25

Yep!

Doesn't take much to toughen the truck up, just a bit of research.

Getting it to handle, that takes the work. The truck out of the box is pretty narrow and most team guys run custom front axles and custom rear axles to widen the truck. I do a few other mods to the truck to toughen it up, and a few custom mods just to tweak the tuning further.

Feel free to PM me if you need any help.

SavageSYNTH25

The Dubro monster links work great in the rear tower, but I prefer the Losi Grey ballcups and longer titanium ballstuds with locknuts on the opposite side. That way, for whatever reason, the cup can be quickly popped off. The Ti studs are indestructable as well.