Thunder Tiger ST-1
03-10-2006, 06:33 PM
#1
Thunder Tiger ST-1
Hi, I just recently purchased an ST-1 and it will be my first nitro vehicle and I have been out of RC for 15 years. I am interested in racing it this spring, and was hoping that you guys that have some experience with this truck could help me out with what I might need to get started. I am planning on replacing the transmitter with the Spektrum DX-3. Do I need to replace the servos that come with the truck, or are they sufficient? The DX-3 does come with a metal gear servo, but I don't know if it is any better than the two Jaquar servos that are already installed. Next would be the receiver battery pack, what am I looking for here? the battery box on the ST-1 seems pretty small for a receiver and a battery pack, any suggestions on what type and a brand name would be appreciated. As for fuel, Iv'e read that it is wise to start out with a 20% blend to keep from ruining your motor while I learn how to tune it, any suggestions on a certain brand? Should I just use the pull start on the TT pro28, or use some other method to start the engine? Where is a good website to go to that has information on cleaning and maintaining your vehicle in between races? I guess that is it for starters unless you guys can think of anything else I might need.
Marc
Marc
03-10-2006, 10:30 PM
#2
http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk-1.4.6/pw/backtalk/abalone/read?conf=offroad8&csel=&isel=19,20-$&rsel=all&noskip=1
There's a maddening amount of posts here, but it is the best place online to get information on the ST-1 and the S3 buggy. R.Saxton and many other TTR factory drivers post here. I personally don't have the truck, but I do run the S3. As for your concerns...
1) The DX-3 will work with either set of servos. I don't know the stats for the steering servo that comes with the truck, but Id bet the JR Z590 ( which is the better of the two servos that come with the DX-3) would also be better than the stock one in the truck. For break in or light bashing, it will be fine, but for racing...definately get a servo with 120 Oz/In or more torque. Among the most popular are the Airtronics 94357 or 94358, Futaba S9451, Hitec Titanium series, or JR Z series. Once you do this, put the Z590 on throttle and your'e set.
2) I believe that a flat style Rx pack is what is needed on the ST-1. The buggy uses flat so Id guess that the truck is the same. The box is plenty large enough to fit both Rx and the battery. The S3 box is smaller than the truck, and I have no problem with mine.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJRB2&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLD5&P=ML
The above is a decent and inexpensive charger for the Rx battery. Whatever charger you use, just be sure it can charge NiMh cells and don't charge the pack at more than 1 amp.
3) Being a racer, I prefer to use 30%. I honestly don't think there will be any real difference as far as tuning issues. If you have problems with 30, you'll have problems with 20, or any other level. The main thing is going to be youre break in procedure. If you have one, use a heat gun on the engine block and use a temp gauge to aim at the glow plug. Get the temp up to 180-210...then start it up. Smoothly roll on and off throttle up to aprox half trigger. Drive it around slowly like this for 3-4 minutes.Don't blip or jab on and off throttle...roll smoothly. Also do not get W.O.T ( wide open throttle). Once the 3-4 minutes is up, kill the engine. You can do this by pinching the fuel line near the carb inlet or using your foot ( with shoe on of course ).Hold the chassis upside down, put a toe on the flywheel through the hole on the bottom of the chassis. Or you can use a rag and plug the stinger on the exhaust. Everyone has a preferred method and there's pros/cons for all three. I use the toe on the flywheel, what ever is easiest for you will be fine. Once the engine is stopped, you should bring the piston to B.D.C. If you don't the sleeve will cool around the piston, not allowing it to cool to it's proper size and this will shorten the life of the engine. You can "feel" when it is at B.D.C. When you feel no resistance, it is there. Or, before the engine is ever started, you can take the glow plug out, look down in the engine, roll the flywheel by hand and see when it is at B.D.C. Now, flip the buggy over, and you can mark the piston. A lot will say to use a Sharpie, but in my experience, this wears off. I use a body reamer to make a small indentation on the flywheel. Now when I kill my engine, I simply look for the mark on the flywheel and I know the piston is at B.D.C. Continuing break in, let the engine cool for 10-15 minutes. Do this procedure...start it up, run it slowly, smooth throttle input, run it for 3-4 minutes for 6-8 times, kill the engine, bring piston to B.D.C and let it cool...this should be equal to approximately a half gallon of fuel. This process is called heat cycling. After the heat cycle period, you can start to run full tanks. You can start to push it to W.O.T, but don't hold it at W.O.T for more than 3 seconds. Run it for another half gal. or so and you should be fine to start race tuning from there. Fuel recomendations...Byron's, O'Donells, TQ, Blue Thunder, and Werks all have quality products. The main thing, once use you one brand, try to stick to that brand at all times. Same with nitro %. It won't hurt anything , but you will have to tune and retune everytime you change either brand or %.
4) You can use the pull start...just be sure to remember it is not a lawn mower....short ( 5-6" ) pulls are all that is needed. After a while though, you may tire of getting blisters from the chord and from bumping your hand on the exhaust as you're restarting a hot engine. When you do tire of this, you can try using a starter box.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLD9&P=ML
5) Cleaning...you can use the search engine here and try to find a thread. There's numerous ones posted already. If you at the track, and it is dry out, most people simply use ( if it is provided by the track, most tracks do) an air compressor to blow dirt off in between heats. If it is wet, or at the end of the day... remove the radio tray, cover the engine head and carb with a plastic baggy, use Simple Green or denatured alcohal and spray the truck down, let it sit for a few minutes and then use the air hose to blow it all off. Then grab some WD-40, spray liberally and then blow off the excess. This is just a basic idea..to get you started.
Sorry for the short story, lol...anyway, as far as thinking of other things....I could write volumes...it would likely be better if you post here any other questions you may have. Good luck and ROCK ON TTR
There's a maddening amount of posts here, but it is the best place online to get information on the ST-1 and the S3 buggy. R.Saxton and many other TTR factory drivers post here. I personally don't have the truck, but I do run the S3. As for your concerns...
1) The DX-3 will work with either set of servos. I don't know the stats for the steering servo that comes with the truck, but Id bet the JR Z590 ( which is the better of the two servos that come with the DX-3) would also be better than the stock one in the truck. For break in or light bashing, it will be fine, but for racing...definately get a servo with 120 Oz/In or more torque. Among the most popular are the Airtronics 94357 or 94358, Futaba S9451, Hitec Titanium series, or JR Z series. Once you do this, put the Z590 on throttle and your'e set.
2) I believe that a flat style Rx pack is what is needed on the ST-1. The buggy uses flat so Id guess that the truck is the same. The box is plenty large enough to fit both Rx and the battery. The S3 box is smaller than the truck, and I have no problem with mine.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJRB2&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLD5&P=ML
The above is a decent and inexpensive charger for the Rx battery. Whatever charger you use, just be sure it can charge NiMh cells and don't charge the pack at more than 1 amp.
3) Being a racer, I prefer to use 30%. I honestly don't think there will be any real difference as far as tuning issues. If you have problems with 30, you'll have problems with 20, or any other level. The main thing is going to be youre break in procedure. If you have one, use a heat gun on the engine block and use a temp gauge to aim at the glow plug. Get the temp up to 180-210...then start it up. Smoothly roll on and off throttle up to aprox half trigger. Drive it around slowly like this for 3-4 minutes.Don't blip or jab on and off throttle...roll smoothly. Also do not get W.O.T ( wide open throttle). Once the 3-4 minutes is up, kill the engine. You can do this by pinching the fuel line near the carb inlet or using your foot ( with shoe on of course ).Hold the chassis upside down, put a toe on the flywheel through the hole on the bottom of the chassis. Or you can use a rag and plug the stinger on the exhaust. Everyone has a preferred method and there's pros/cons for all three. I use the toe on the flywheel, what ever is easiest for you will be fine. Once the engine is stopped, you should bring the piston to B.D.C. If you don't the sleeve will cool around the piston, not allowing it to cool to it's proper size and this will shorten the life of the engine. You can "feel" when it is at B.D.C. When you feel no resistance, it is there. Or, before the engine is ever started, you can take the glow plug out, look down in the engine, roll the flywheel by hand and see when it is at B.D.C. Now, flip the buggy over, and you can mark the piston. A lot will say to use a Sharpie, but in my experience, this wears off. I use a body reamer to make a small indentation on the flywheel. Now when I kill my engine, I simply look for the mark on the flywheel and I know the piston is at B.D.C. Continuing break in, let the engine cool for 10-15 minutes. Do this procedure...start it up, run it slowly, smooth throttle input, run it for 3-4 minutes for 6-8 times, kill the engine, bring piston to B.D.C and let it cool...this should be equal to approximately a half gallon of fuel. This process is called heat cycling. After the heat cycle period, you can start to run full tanks. You can start to push it to W.O.T, but don't hold it at W.O.T for more than 3 seconds. Run it for another half gal. or so and you should be fine to start race tuning from there. Fuel recomendations...Byron's, O'Donells, TQ, Blue Thunder, and Werks all have quality products. The main thing, once use you one brand, try to stick to that brand at all times. Same with nitro %. It won't hurt anything , but you will have to tune and retune everytime you change either brand or %.
4) You can use the pull start...just be sure to remember it is not a lawn mower....short ( 5-6" ) pulls are all that is needed. After a while though, you may tire of getting blisters from the chord and from bumping your hand on the exhaust as you're restarting a hot engine. When you do tire of this, you can try using a starter box.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLD9&P=ML
5) Cleaning...you can use the search engine here and try to find a thread. There's numerous ones posted already. If you at the track, and it is dry out, most people simply use ( if it is provided by the track, most tracks do) an air compressor to blow dirt off in between heats. If it is wet, or at the end of the day... remove the radio tray, cover the engine head and carb with a plastic baggy, use Simple Green or denatured alcohal and spray the truck down, let it sit for a few minutes and then use the air hose to blow it all off. Then grab some WD-40, spray liberally and then blow off the excess. This is just a basic idea..to get you started.
Sorry for the short story, lol...anyway, as far as thinking of other things....I could write volumes...it would likely be better if you post here any other questions you may have. Good luck and ROCK ON TTR
03-11-2006, 02:56 AM
#4
YW and like I said, feel free to ask any advice in the future.
03-11-2006, 06:28 AM
#5
Tech Initiate
Would it be useful to subscribe to sgrid? or is it a waste of money?
03-11-2006, 08:13 AM
#6
You don't have to pay for the Grid but even if it was required, it would be well worth it. Virtually all the major well known drivers and other factory reps are very active there. Just fill out the registration and it should work fine.
03-11-2006, 12:21 PM
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
You want to use the "free conferences" on the grid. The stock servos are rated at over 100 oz I think, but they are on the slow side. I'd say the 590 servo will be an okay match on throttle but you will want closer to 200oz for steering to race. I would keep the stock servos in for now and get used to driving. The radio upgrade is probably more important than the servos.
Where do you live? Hopefully there is a good track nearby. You can also use a hair dryer to warm the engine up if you do not have a heat gun.
There are a couple of nice upgrades to get for the ST1. There is a short truggy wing available in several colors and also a truggy extended wing mount. They protect the rear of the body more than anything else. The locking wheel nuts are kind of nice to have too and not very expensive.
Once you get to the track you will want to buy whatever tires the locals are running. I also recommend going to the offset wheels (TTR sells them in several colors or the Jammin X1-CRT wheels should work). Also get some S3 steering rod ends when you switch wheels. The S3 ends are a lot stronger and will not rub on the offset wheels. The stock wheels require the special rod ends that come on the truck.
Get some diff oil for the diffs (they come stock with grease). For indoors 5k in the front and center diffs is good along with 3k in the rear. For outdoors guys are running higher in the center diff like the 10-30k range. The rear shock oil is also a little thin from the factory. 50wt Assoc. is working well for me. The front oil is not bad, and I have not changed it yet. I believe 35wt is recommended for indoor racing.
I know that sounds like a lot, but it is what I would consider necessary to race competitively.
Where do you live? Hopefully there is a good track nearby. You can also use a hair dryer to warm the engine up if you do not have a heat gun.
There are a couple of nice upgrades to get for the ST1. There is a short truggy wing available in several colors and also a truggy extended wing mount. They protect the rear of the body more than anything else. The locking wheel nuts are kind of nice to have too and not very expensive.
Once you get to the track you will want to buy whatever tires the locals are running. I also recommend going to the offset wheels (TTR sells them in several colors or the Jammin X1-CRT wheels should work). Also get some S3 steering rod ends when you switch wheels. The S3 ends are a lot stronger and will not rub on the offset wheels. The stock wheels require the special rod ends that come on the truck.
Get some diff oil for the diffs (they come stock with grease). For indoors 5k in the front and center diffs is good along with 3k in the rear. For outdoors guys are running higher in the center diff like the 10-30k range. The rear shock oil is also a little thin from the factory. 50wt Assoc. is working well for me. The front oil is not bad, and I have not changed it yet. I believe 35wt is recommended for indoor racing.
I know that sounds like a lot, but it is what I would consider necessary to race competitively.
03-12-2006, 01:59 AM
#8
There is some good info on the ST-1 on the Thunder Tiger forum at: http://www.truggyracers.com
It's very well organized.
It's very well organized.
03-20-2006, 03:16 PM
#9
I'm really looking hard at this truck. I just wish it were more widely available.
03-24-2006, 06:05 AM
#11
Amainhobbies has the ST-1's in stock as well as all the parts. Most orders are received in two days.
03-24-2006, 09:31 AM
#12
Tech Adept
Just to confirm the ST-1 need s flat 5 cell receiver pack.
Great truck, I couldn't be any happier with it. Only hop ups I think are needed is the upgraded brake disks.
Great truck, I couldn't be any happier with it. Only hop ups I think are needed is the upgraded brake disks.
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