CorallyBQuiK

iTrader: (21)

I purchased a brand new o.s. cv-r .12 and during break in i ran two tanks of fuel through it. after the third one i let it cool down and when i went to start it again it was seized. the temp never went over 150 degrees and was very rich during break in.

has anybody had this problem and if so what could have caused it

Thanx
CorallyBQuik

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

are you sure it is seized, I guarantee the pistion is just stuck at the top of the sleeve, these things happen when breaking in motors. The fit is so tight you can't move it with your finger and you'll swear that it is seized but in reality it is not, you'll have to take a hammer and chisel to turn the flywheel to un-stick it. Of course with this piston being stuck at the top during the cooling process there is a good chance of severe damage.

X-Factor

My guess is when you let the engine cool, the piston was still in the sleeve and when the engine cooled the sleeve tighten up and locked the piston. You should be able to unseize the piston by heating the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer. Not sure if a hair dryer will get hot enough, but worth a try.

When breaking in a new engine after each tank make sure that the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve. You will know it is at the bottom because the flywheel will be easy to move. Once you are through ur break-in period you shouldn't have to worry about where the piston is located. Hope this helps.

X

losi jon

excellent advice!!!

AE Racer

You should keep the engine's temperature around 200 degrees during the entire break-in process. You could be doing damage by running it too cool. Rich is good, but if you run the engine too cool then the parts dont expand and the pisten wears away the pinch in the sleave. Also be sure that you're getting a thick stream of smoke from the exaust showing that it is rich enough.

brad996

iTrader: (11)

you can also make the fly wheel with a white paint marker but I dont think that you have hurt the motor just heat it up like X Factor said

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

You can use a flat screwdriver to pry the flywheel back around from underneath the chassis. Just go into the chassis cutout, catch it on the flywheel and then pry it out. New 1/8 scale motors have to do that all the time.

Or take the engine out and use channel locks on the flywheel.

Best to heat it up a bit first like said above.

clinttredway

iTrader: (8)

yup, this past weekend I was breaking in a new .21 engine, and the piston & sleeve were very tight, to the point that we had to heat the engine up first before we could start it. The advice given above will work.

CorallyBQuiK

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for the advice but prying the flywheel, and heating it up dosn't work. but it seems the connecting rod could be broke

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

if the con rod is broke, more than likely the crank will move free all the time, take your motor apart to get a definite answer

downunder23

hi guys i have 2 .21 nitro engines i bought with 2 nitro cars and cant seem get them to keep running for a full tank is there any advice i should know to efficiantly run and maintain theses .21 engines?

Rocksalt

Motors are tricky on break-in. The best thing you can do is get a break in stand for new motors and run a airplane prop on them. Prying the flywheel and or using channellocks in a no no. The piston is made of aluminum and will scratch easilly. Take the head off or get a propane torch and heat up the head or just below it.

To get a motor to idle right you need to adjust the high end first. Get it running so that it just barely blubbers wide open on a relatively cool motor. As the engine heats up it will lean out more and more. You have a starting point for the main needle this way. Then adjust the low speed screw so it just barely '4-strokes'. You will hear a pop pop brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr pop pop brrrrrrrrrrrrr. On a street car you want the idle mix to be rich so that when you back off the throttle you get more oil and cool the engine. Not so much that the engine stalls after 30 seconds of idling though. There is a fine line.. If the idle screw is off you won't get it to run right at idle no matter how much you play with the low speed screw. Having the idle to low will cause you to have to lean out the low speed screw to keep it running at idle. The motor manufacturers have a measurment to go from as far as the gap in the carb slide for initial idle. Start with that and go from there for the other adjustments.

I would not attempt to run an OS motor without taking it apart first. Get a dremel and cut a V in the crank, just under the crankpin. The V will have the smallest end at the crankpin and the larger part of the V will be facing the hole in the center of the crank. The small end of the V will need to almost touch the crankpin. This will force the incoming charge to oil the con-rod pin. The half assed attmept most motor makers use to oil the crankpin is fruitless.

If you want more power in a nitro motor, cut a swirl in the back end of the crank's exit hole. Where the swirl starts and finishes is important. I had some of the hottest motors out in .12 .15 and .21.

Downunder, you have to monitor the temp of those motors. More you run, the leaner they get. To lean and the piston and sleeve is toast. Most .21's run around 220. .15's run at about 220-230, .12's at about 235. If you don't have a temp gun then always richen it up till it flutters and turn in slightly until it smooths out. You can run leaner at the top end if you have plenty of richness at the bottom end, but you can't flog it wide open for extended periods. An indication of mixture is the tank will last about 6 minutes. If you are getting more, then you are to lean.