1/8 scale buggy set up questions...
03-22-2006, 01:47 PM
#1
1/8 scale buggy set up questions...
I just picked up a hyper 8 pro. I am familiar (kinda) with 1/10 scale on road set up guidelines.
My questions are:
What is a good starting set up for the 1/8 buggy? Diff oil, shock oil, toe, camber, caster, etc... and the effects of each and adjustments.
What is kick up and anti squat and their effects?
Anything else you can add, please do...
Thanks for you knowledge!!
My questions are:
What is a good starting set up for the 1/8 buggy? Diff oil, shock oil, toe, camber, caster, etc... and the effects of each and adjustments.
What is kick up and anti squat and their effects?
Anything else you can add, please do...
Thanks for you knowledge!!
03-23-2006, 01:36 PM
#2
Tech Regular
The 1st thing I would do would go to the Ofna web site and look for setups for the hyper 8. Next I would try to find a setup that suits the track that you race at or go with a basic setup from a top driver.
In 8th scale the setups does not change much from (outdoor tracks). Often the only changes will be the tires you use and sometimes change the diff. oil. If you want to learn more about diff oil effects. I would recommend going to the Xray web site and looking up the manual for the Xray XB8. I think it has the ends and outs of what chassis changes do.
One key reminder every buggy brand is differend. So the only setup you will want to focus on is the Hyper 8's.
In 8th scale the setups does not change much from (outdoor tracks). Often the only changes will be the tires you use and sometimes change the diff. oil. If you want to learn more about diff oil effects. I would recommend going to the Xray web site and looking up the manual for the Xray XB8. I think it has the ends and outs of what chassis changes do.
One key reminder every buggy brand is differend. So the only setup you will want to focus on is the Hyper 8's.
03-23-2006, 04:39 PM
#3
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
A good basic set-up for diff oils is 5000-7000-2000 for Front-Center-Rear. Most buggies work really well with this. Shock oil is pretty car specific, though, so I can't really make any worthwhile recommendations.
Talk to locals and get tire ideas, as well as clutch set-up ideas and pipe recommendations.
Camber is usually between 1 and 2 degrees depending on the track surface and traction available, 1.5 degrees is always a good place to start. If the buggy traction rolls, add more, if it washes out easily take-out a little. By the way, I am referring to negative camber, or tires leaning in at the top, never use positive camber.
Ride height on 1/8 buggies is almost always set to arms level.
When it comes to camber link mounting points, think in terms of camberlink length. Longer is stable, shorter is quick and snappy. Camberlink angle is generally not messed with much in off-road, ussually you set your arms pretty flat and leave 'em that way.
Caster is the angle of the king pin of the front wheel, or more accurately, the angle on which the steering hub turns.Its always negative in off-road racing. It is used to tune weight transfer in the corners, the more caster you have, the more weight gets pushed to the inside rear tire in the middle of the corner.
Toe-in or more accurately toe-out is used in offroad racing to effect steering and stabilize the car. Most cars will run great with 0.5 to 1 degree of toe-out, use more for more sketchy tracks, use less or zero for smooth,fast tracks.
Kick-up is the angle formed into the chassis to help the buggy land without digging in, it is also the angle at which the front lower hinge pins sit when looking from the side of the car. Think of this angle as if it were the nose of a sled. The higher the nose of the sled sits, the easier it will climb over bumps. Similarly, front kick-up, or anti-dive as it is called in TC Racing, will help to a certain extent handling on rough tracks, but too much can make the front-end too soft on big jumps. Kick-up also helps control chassis attitude when on power, and when braking, more kick-up will reduce diving in corners under heavy braking. This gets real complicated, so start with the recommended set-up in the manual, then tune once you are sure you have the right tires and good steering. Anti-squat is the same thing, but in the rear. This is used to either limit or increase rear weight transfer when accelerating.
Of all the things that I have seen, the most helpful for me when settting up a new car, I think about how the pro's cars look when they are on the track. They are stuck! no tire slides or scrubs... anywhere... and Their cars rotate in the corners like they are spinning on top of a stick. Think of things in terms of weight transfer, then adjust accordingly to make your car do the same thing. If it pushes in the corners, get weight to the front-end blah, blah. Hope I didn't confuse you.
Talk to locals and get tire ideas, as well as clutch set-up ideas and pipe recommendations.
Camber is usually between 1 and 2 degrees depending on the track surface and traction available, 1.5 degrees is always a good place to start. If the buggy traction rolls, add more, if it washes out easily take-out a little. By the way, I am referring to negative camber, or tires leaning in at the top, never use positive camber.
Ride height on 1/8 buggies is almost always set to arms level.
When it comes to camber link mounting points, think in terms of camberlink length. Longer is stable, shorter is quick and snappy. Camberlink angle is generally not messed with much in off-road, ussually you set your arms pretty flat and leave 'em that way.
Caster is the angle of the king pin of the front wheel, or more accurately, the angle on which the steering hub turns.Its always negative in off-road racing. It is used to tune weight transfer in the corners, the more caster you have, the more weight gets pushed to the inside rear tire in the middle of the corner.
Toe-in or more accurately toe-out is used in offroad racing to effect steering and stabilize the car. Most cars will run great with 0.5 to 1 degree of toe-out, use more for more sketchy tracks, use less or zero for smooth,fast tracks.
Kick-up is the angle formed into the chassis to help the buggy land without digging in, it is also the angle at which the front lower hinge pins sit when looking from the side of the car. Think of this angle as if it were the nose of a sled. The higher the nose of the sled sits, the easier it will climb over bumps. Similarly, front kick-up, or anti-dive as it is called in TC Racing, will help to a certain extent handling on rough tracks, but too much can make the front-end too soft on big jumps. Kick-up also helps control chassis attitude when on power, and when braking, more kick-up will reduce diving in corners under heavy braking. This gets real complicated, so start with the recommended set-up in the manual, then tune once you are sure you have the right tires and good steering. Anti-squat is the same thing, but in the rear. This is used to either limit or increase rear weight transfer when accelerating.
Of all the things that I have seen, the most helpful for me when settting up a new car, I think about how the pro's cars look when they are on the track. They are stuck! no tire slides or scrubs... anywhere... and Their cars rotate in the corners like they are spinning on top of a stick. Think of things in terms of weight transfer, then adjust accordingly to make your car do the same thing. If it pushes in the corners, get weight to the front-end blah, blah. Hope I didn't confuse you.
Last edited by Banshee8530; 03-23-2006 at 04:52 PM.
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