dentguy55

First rc 1 1/2 months ago stampede its fast and does wheelies.ok not much fun really. Then I saw a crawler/scaler vid had to have one.Decided on the scx10 g6 rubicon kit, what fun building it. Ok now I had this cool vech and little to no knowledge of what to put in the empty holes (wish I discovered this place earlier) Big learning curve and expensive when ya listen to the hobby shop huckster selling his ware's
What I ended up with is, savox 1256tg servo, novak eiger and 55 turn rockstar motor 2cell lipo's, like I said im new and the axial transmitter/reciever what do I know right? It goes foward and backward turns left and right and gives me no problems unlike the 135.00 tqi that now sits on my shelf. I have done the following upgrades, knuckels, C hubs rear lock out alum gears in tranny and the all so important led's, I turned my tranny 180° for better pinion angle, which allowed me to relocate esc and reciever to the rear eliminating box under battery tray giving me almost 1/2 inch to lower battery and cog right? 2.2 beadlocks with maxxis tires they work good on my neighborhood 100 ft long riprap stone pile private crawling course, I used to build custom Harleys, but this way better and a little cheaper (sure). Im not impressed with stock shocks and dont really know the first thing about susp fine tuning am I on the right path? Sorry about the length of this but I don't know anyone into rc's or crawling scaling or trailing plus im old and pretty much out of the demographics or so it seems help would be appericated

*Super*

iTrader: (1)

That's the best part of this crawling thing. The demographics is 4 to 104. Sounds to me your on the right track. I found that the SCX 10 doesn't really need too many tweeks.

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

You might find this interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Headquake137

dentguy55

Yea I saw that video dosent tell ys how he did it though.
Got the proline wrangler body going to cut top off from door back going to use roof for bed, going to heat up sides and top and roll them have a wraith interior that I will make fit any sugestions on roll bar?

OSRC

iTrader: (10)

Not sure what kind of help you need, sounds like your on the right track! We have ages 7-70 in our club, it's a pretty diverse group.

You really don't need top level shocks on an SCX to go play, just add a bit of oil every once in a while so they don't run dry and they'll be fine. Check the bottom caps on the shock bodies and make sure they are tight. Some of our guys don't run oil at all, I prefer 45wt myself for a bit more predictable handling.

Best part about running scale trucks is once you get past the RTR phase, no 2 are alike, there is no "right" way, and you can do pretty much whatever you want to your truck. We've built tow trucks, beetle crawlers, flatbeds, some have leafs, some have 4 links...it's pretty diverse.

Post up any specific questions you have and we'll do our best to answer.

maxmad

iTrader: (6)

i have 2 scx10s and a wraith and they all crawl way different lol and all are very different from each other so i would say just run it around and change a few things here and there untill you get it how you want it

rc_user

iTrader: (11)

my shocks leaked too, so i got some gmade zero shocks on my wraith and they seem OK but not fantastic, they seem to have a dead spot at the start of travel where there is no damping but you can't really tell when driving, only compressing the shock alone in your hand. but like OSRC says, for crawling you don't need primo shocks. I just wanted something with threaded alum bodies that wouldn't leak. I know a guy too who just uses AE green slime and no oil and his shocks move very smoothly.

javi0sh

iTrader: (1)

My Icon shocks leak a lot also and did the green slime thing. I think I am going to try a different weight oil and just slime the heck out of them this time. Heck the slime is fairly cheap why not.

Howler

Teflon/thread tape for the win! Wrap it around your treads, and screw the shock cap on.

Jeepy2013

iTrader: (115)

It has nothing to do with the threads on the top or bottom caps, it's the design of the oring seals, that's where the majority of the oil leaks are. Even with green slime they will leak. The one "fix" that does seem to work pretty decent is the use of the Traxxas "X-ring" shock seals instead of the Axial o-rings.