Crawler noob- looking for pointers on dialing in the SCX10
07-28-2014, 08:46 PM
#1
Crawler noob- looking for pointers on dialing in the SCX10
I'm sure all the answers are available with enough search engine flogging, but I'm hoping a new thread won't be an issue 
. Anyways I just built up my wrangler g6... I have a few things to address.
Weight balancing- the truck wants to flip way too fast turning left, which I attribute to motor placement. Perhaps some weight to balance it L/R is a good idea? Just not sure how to apply it... I come from TC and the chassis is a hell of a lot flatter and wider
. On the SCX I don't know what approach to take yet.
Shocks / Spring rates- The shocks are leaking way too much, even with green slime applied. If there is a solid fix to this, please lmk. Or if there are affordable options that work better than the stock units, some advise is welcome. Bling? no need. Extreme performance? Honestly I am backyard bashing and live in Florida... flat and sandy!
... also, should I stay with the stock shocks, what about front springs? With the battery mounted and electronics the front is squashed out bad. I don't know much about dual-spring set ups. all I know is that it feels like the stock bits can't handle the weight.
That's it for now. Anyone willing to chime in, I thank you much.
. Anyways I just built up my wrangler g6... I have a few things to address.Weight balancing- the truck wants to flip way too fast turning left, which I attribute to motor placement. Perhaps some weight to balance it L/R is a good idea? Just not sure how to apply it... I come from TC and the chassis is a hell of a lot flatter and wider
. On the SCX I don't know what approach to take yet.Shocks / Spring rates- The shocks are leaking way too much, even with green slime applied. If there is a solid fix to this, please lmk. Or if there are affordable options that work better than the stock units, some advise is welcome. Bling? no need. Extreme performance? Honestly I am backyard bashing and live in Florida... flat and sandy!
... also, should I stay with the stock shocks, what about front springs? With the battery mounted and electronics the front is squashed out bad. I don't know much about dual-spring set ups. all I know is that it feels like the stock bits can't handle the weight.
That's it for now. Anyone willing to chime in, I thank you much.
07-29-2014, 08:46 AM
#2
The shocks are more for crawling so the springs are very soft so if your not planning on crawling with it than I would get some stiffer springs that should help your rolling over also
07-29-2014, 11:54 AM
#3
Easy (and almost free) fix for the tippy nature of the chassis is to outboard the lower mounts of the shocks. Not sure on the RTR, but on the kits there are plenty of extra rod end ball inserts included. Put those where the shocks mount on the lower mounts as a spacer, and using a longer screw, put the shocks on the outside. Adds more triangulation to the shock set-up and will provide more stability.
1000 words:
I've rebuilt my shocks with an Associated shock rebuild kit and green slime and they are much better. Better O-rings in the Associated kit. Prolines are a great replacement if you want to spend the cash.
1000 words:
I've rebuilt my shocks with an Associated shock rebuild kit and green slime and they are much better. Better O-rings in the Associated kit. Prolines are a great replacement if you want to spend the cash.
07-29-2014, 04:22 PM
#4
Did you weight your wheels?
07-29-2014, 05:26 PM
#5
Easy (and almost free) fix for the tippy nature of the chassis is to outboard the lower mounts of the shocks. Not sure on the RTR, but on the kits there are plenty of extra rod end ball inserts included. Put those where the shocks mount on the lower mounts as a spacer, and using a longer screw, put the shocks on the outside. Adds more triangulation to the shock set-up and will provide more stability.
1000 words:
I've rebuilt my shocks with an Associated shock rebuild kit and green slime and they are much better. Better O-rings in the Associated kit. Prolines are a great replacement if you want to spend the cash.
1000 words:
I've rebuilt my shocks with an Associated shock rebuild kit and green slime and they are much better. Better O-rings in the Associated kit. Prolines are a great replacement if you want to spend the cash.
08-17-2014, 04:31 PM
#7
Tech Rookie
o-rings arent the huge issue with these shocks leaking. i pulled all of mine apart and used teflon tape around the shock body before putting the cap on and it worked well. putting a wrap of lead wheel weights inside each front tire will drastically improve crawling. if you use a kit like the one pictured you will actually be raising the truck and creating more tip over problems. i have several scx10 platformed vehicles and never have had the issue of tipping over but then again these are for off roading enjoyment and not driving like a TC. solid axle design and no ball diffs so it will be a bit different that what you are used to
08-26-2014, 08:19 PM
#8
Tech Rookie
Weight the tires is a huge thing. I do one time around the rim outside with sticky weights. Also how do you have your battery placed?
10-19-2014, 06:56 AM
#9
Easy (and almost free) fix for the tippy nature of the chassis is to outboard the lower mounts of the shocks. Not sure on the RTR, but on the kits there are plenty of extra rod end ball inserts included. Put those where the shocks mount on the lower mounts as a spacer, and using a longer screw, put the shocks on the outside. Adds more triangulation to the shock set-up and will provide more stability.
1000 words:
I've rebuilt my shocks with an Associated shock rebuild kit and green slime and they are much better. Better O-rings in the Associated kit. Prolines are a great replacement if you want to spend the cash.
1000 words:
I've rebuilt my shocks with an Associated shock rebuild kit and green slime and they are much better. Better O-rings in the Associated kit. Prolines are a great replacement if you want to spend the cash.
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