Tamiya CR/CC-01 Thread
08-05-2011, 01:40 AM
#46
Tech Regular
Thanks for the responses.
Have seen the zip tie mod on RCcrawler so that will be done and it is quick and easy.
So bent lower arms are ok then...they just a tad pricey so will have to consider them carefully. I want to use it manily for messing around with, bit of off-roading and a bit of basic crawling.
Do I need a hop up part to lock the diffs or can the standard parts do this? Can it be done externally or do you have to strip it down?
I have seen a reinforced drive shaft and diff lock set. Should I get this from the get go? If it helps and will mean that I do not have to strip the whole thing down at a later stage then I would rather get it!
With the 18.5 will I still get enough speed if wanting to mess around on a straight a bit and is it slow enough to crawl at a decent slow pace too without being too jerky?
Would the 21.5 not have more torque?
Should I consider the heat sink motor plate or do crawler motors not really get to the temperature extremes of on road cars?
Would a fan on the motor suffice or not neccessary?
Are the standard tie rods ok or must I get the turnbuckle tie rod set?
...or is this the same as the kit part with the addition of a a square part for easy adjustment?
How long will teh tryes last? I know this is a bit of a rhetorical question but any feedback would be appreciated
Do the rims and beadlocks wear or break? Should I get spares?
What about clamp type aluminium hex hubs? Would these be better than the standard plastic push on jobbies?
What about diff parts? Is there anything in particular that breaks easily or has a short life span?
What about the servo's. Should I look at meatl gear or is nylon ok? In particular I have a 6.5Kg JR servo lying around that I could use. Is this enough?
Have seen the zip tie mod on RCcrawler so that will be done and it is quick and easy.
So bent lower arms are ok then...they just a tad pricey so will have to consider them carefully. I want to use it manily for messing around with, bit of off-roading and a bit of basic crawling.
Do I need a hop up part to lock the diffs or can the standard parts do this? Can it be done externally or do you have to strip it down?
I have seen a reinforced drive shaft and diff lock set. Should I get this from the get go? If it helps and will mean that I do not have to strip the whole thing down at a later stage then I would rather get it!
With the 18.5 will I still get enough speed if wanting to mess around on a straight a bit and is it slow enough to crawl at a decent slow pace too without being too jerky?
Would the 21.5 not have more torque?
Should I consider the heat sink motor plate or do crawler motors not really get to the temperature extremes of on road cars?
Would a fan on the motor suffice or not neccessary?
Are the standard tie rods ok or must I get the turnbuckle tie rod set?
...or is this the same as the kit part with the addition of a a square part for easy adjustment?
How long will teh tryes last? I know this is a bit of a rhetorical question but any feedback would be appreciated
Do the rims and beadlocks wear or break? Should I get spares?
What about clamp type aluminium hex hubs? Would these be better than the standard plastic push on jobbies?
What about diff parts? Is there anything in particular that breaks easily or has a short life span?
What about the servo's. Should I look at meatl gear or is nylon ok? In particular I have a 6.5Kg JR servo lying around that I could use. Is this enough?
08-15-2011, 01:29 AM
#47
hello all cc01 owner
hello sir, i'm newbie of this webboard.
i have CC-01 with so beautiful hard body. let me show...
My CC-01 First RUN / First Crawl
Video Clip => http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTM-ie6SPFk
i have CC-01 with so beautiful hard body. let me show...
My CC-01 First RUN / First Crawl
Video Clip => http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTM-ie6SPFk
Last edited by smith9turbo; 08-18-2011 at 10:30 PM.
09-04-2011, 08:03 PM
#48
Would CC-01 be good entry level crawler (more of scale trailing then rock crawling).
What is the difference between CC-01 vs CR-01?
What is the difference between CC-01 vs CR-01?
09-07-2011, 10:24 AM
#49
why are these trucks in the same thread? They don't share any parts..
10-04-2011, 09:32 AM
#50
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
Anyone looking for a Used Tamiya CR01 Roller? I am selling one here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=554394&referrerid=102538
Thanks,
Tariq
Thanks,
Tariq
10-23-2011, 08:57 PM
#51
Tech Adept
I had a cc-01 honda crv back in the day (~10 years ago?), and I remember it being amazing, may buy a tamiya cc-01 Jeep soon! I am probably getting a CR-01 tomorrow (Trade). Both good vehicles, just don't like the goofy shock system on the CR-01, not very scale.
10-24-2011, 03:26 PM
#52
Tech Adept
I did get that CR-01 today. Other than the goofy paint job on the FJ body, it is in pretty good shape. All I have done to it was remove the sway bars, and that made a huge improvement in articulation!
03-10-2012, 10:12 PM
#54
lets revive this thread. i just got my first cc01 today and its pretty much bone stock. im looking for mods to help get some more steering, and also looking to get a new body...who know what works??? show em if you got em..and let us know what you used!!
03-11-2012, 12:54 AM
#55
There is a very active thread over at rccrawler.com for the CC-01. Since you're here, though...
Custom/aftermarket rear links are VITAL. The stock lower links get caught up on everything. Some 8-32 threaded rod and Traxxas rod ends will set you up there. Stock steering is weak. I'm working on some home grown fixes, but GPM offers a complete replacement kit. Shaving some of the interference areas of the C hubs can work wonders, too. Lock the diffs! The rear lock is supplied with the kit, but not the front. There are easy ways to DIY this one, but if you;re looking for a ready made solution, Yeah Racing makes a solid spool for the Tamiya M chassis gear diff that also happens to fit the CC-01 diff nicely. There are some rather more extreme chassis mods you can make, but work up to it.
Most importantly: The stock tires blow! Get some RC4WD rubber on there.
Custom/aftermarket rear links are VITAL. The stock lower links get caught up on everything. Some 8-32 threaded rod and Traxxas rod ends will set you up there. Stock steering is weak. I'm working on some home grown fixes, but GPM offers a complete replacement kit. Shaving some of the interference areas of the C hubs can work wonders, too. Lock the diffs! The rear lock is supplied with the kit, but not the front. There are easy ways to DIY this one, but if you;re looking for a ready made solution, Yeah Racing makes a solid spool for the Tamiya M chassis gear diff that also happens to fit the CC-01 diff nicely. There are some rather more extreme chassis mods you can make, but work up to it.
Most importantly: The stock tires blow! Get some RC4WD rubber on there.
03-11-2012, 12:40 PM
#56
hey thanks. ya this was used and has some nice tires that i took the foams out of and they are awesome. everything else is pretty much stock. it is a longer wheelbase and it has a new brite landrover body. the rear end seems very stiff tho...no springs stiff, but like a binding stiff. im gonna try some other shocks that i have that will get me nicer shocks, more articulation and a cleaner look. im trying to get bodies that look scale and also look cool. besides tamiya, will any jeep bodies work from proline??
03-12-2012, 11:48 AM
#58
I am looking at getting my first crawler and have been all over the board but have decided scale is that way I want to go. Now I am considering the CR-01 but does anyone else find it awful and wrong that they put a Wrangler body on the CC-01 with its IFS. They should have put like a Liberty body on it. Oh well. Any good/bad CR-01?
03-12-2012, 04:02 PM
#59
well imo the cr01 is not really scaled. it is really cool and is a tamiya!! i really like the cc01. its not as good on rocks for crawling, but looks awesome as a scaled rig. search google images and you can find some impressive cc01's. im working on mine and its looking really good!
03-12-2012, 04:11 PM
#60
Brought this post over from rccrawler, seeing how we're reviving this thread here.
Thought I'd post these, since it seems to be a new approach to using existing parts for rear links. I used 4-32 threaded rod, Traxxas ball ends, Tamiya TLT brackets and raided my parts box for a bunch of nuts and bolts.
Here are the stock and built links. Note that the lower links need to be slightly longer (about 5mm center to center on the pivot balls) than the stock pieces to compensate for the mounting point being moved rearwards.
Here's how the TLT brackets go together. a few spacers inside of them allow you to really crank down the hinge point to stop movement. You can see how the mounting point has moved back a few MM.
Attach to rear axle like this...
...and you get this... Mount using the stock screw, through the Traxxas part on top and into a nut to hold it together.
Cool!
Thought I'd post these, since it seems to be a new approach to using existing parts for rear links. I used 4-32 threaded rod, Traxxas ball ends, Tamiya TLT brackets and raided my parts box for a bunch of nuts and bolts.
Here are the stock and built links. Note that the lower links need to be slightly longer (about 5mm center to center on the pivot balls) than the stock pieces to compensate for the mounting point being moved rearwards.
Here's how the TLT brackets go together. a few spacers inside of them allow you to really crank down the hinge point to stop movement. You can see how the mounting point has moved back a few MM.
Attach to rear axle like this...
...and you get this... Mount using the stock screw, through the Traxxas part on top and into a nut to hold it together.
Cool!