Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

These are the part# needed to convert a Corally C10/x to a T-bar car with tube dampers:

1x 75083 mounting set motorbar,
1x 75217 motorbar grphite lightweight,
1x 00055 tube damper conversion kit,
1x 75209 T-bar corally sp12g3 grp-2.4mm,
1x 74858 tweak adjuster graphite sp12m.

All parts are from corally.
If anyone is interested, I'll elaborate how to install these parts.
The conversion will shorten the car with about 10mm and make it dead on the weight limit for our class.
Furthermore will it make the rear end planted and very stable, even on less than flat surfaces.

PizzaDude

Holland,

Although I don't run 1/10 pan car, I think if you could put up some pics. They'ld probably clarify more then a 1000 words...

How does the car run, with this conversion?
(I've had good results with 1/12.)

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

Here's a picture of the converted chassis. It runs way better than stock, the main difference is that the rear end doesn.t "dribble" anymore i.e. it doesn't bounce during hard cornering. This makes it way more stable. It shaved off 1/2 a second a lap on with our top driver (the guy who invented this conversion, maybe he got inspired seeing my converted asso). And he was already dead on the limit and almost uncatchable.

There are still some things on the Corally C10/x that could be improved, like:
-Single plane chassis. This would make it lighter and more roomy for your electronics. Also would it enable you to place your antenna better for less interference.
-CarbonFIBER material used on the car in stead of carbon. The material now used is more flexible and more prone to breaking than a woven material. It might be lighter though.
-The car is overweight for stock racing.

I don't want to hack the C10/x here. It has a lot in favor:
-It's geometry, especially that of the front end, is very good, it provides good grip and adjustability, still it's easy to adjust.
-The aluminium parts are top noth and very durable.
-The O-ring diff is perfectly smooth and lasts long between rebuilds. Just somewhat heavy though.
-Parts availability is very good here in Holland.
-Hey, some company still makes a pro ten: They should at least get a medal for that!!

neelon

Thanks for the info and the picture. I'm going to order the needed parts in a couple of weeks, and have a shot at it.

I'll probably see you sometimes next year during some ICC race (I hope).

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

Neelon, PM me when you get the parts. I'll take you through the building step by step.

I do hope someone from Corally reads this. And maybe gets inspired to change the car in the next building series. I think the C10/x has great potential, and can be very competitive with these mods, even in the stock class. That might stimulate sales in the States two. Especially since pro ten is scheduled to run again at the US nats in 2004. For now it's just as an exhibition class, but they are still working on making it an official class.

I just think it would be great to see some Dutch made cars stealing the show there!
(although I've switched to Asso, I still like Corally)

Trixter

I know this isnot the Buy and sell area but I have a Corally C/10 Pro Graphite version with 'S4' wheels 00116. We no longer have a carpet rack here, and I hate to see the car just sit iin the garage and go to waste. I have a lot of spare parts and wheels and tires in several compounds. The Nissan body is in poor condition.

If anyone is interested please e mail me.

Rick

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

Trixter: you should run it at the nat in july.

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

how far is Central Point is from Portland? They have a club race with Pro 10 in june or july you sould go.

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

Can you post more pic up so we can see step by step how you did this.

just pick up one for my friend and thinking ok diff ways to get it liter.

Geforcy

heej pro ten...

nice conversion.... but use less think wire.... cause this... well.... its not gonna work

use thinner wire and your car handling will be much better

good luck