Quick Q on this.On the sheet it says 2.5 mm "shims under couplers".Are they referring to the "balls"that the arms attach to?The roll blocks?Also,Is it just 2.5mm for the front?or for front and rear?Trying to figure this car out.First non Associated car in 15 years of racing.lol.Thanks,Mario.
Well, on the front end typically it is the same amount front and rear. So 2.5mm would be 2 1/2 shims behind the roll center balls where the hingepins go.
If he was running arm sweep it would have been noted as there are 2 different spots for the amount of shims on the front end.
The rear end just depends on the amount of Toe-in he is running. If he is running 2 deg of rear toe then he has two 1mm shims behind the roll blocks.
Got a question for you guys. I'm running the same setup I've posted above and it is dialed for stock. Lots of steering and easy to drive consistantly. When I try to run 19t with this setup it seems that I have to throw the car around the corners (crank the wheel and dump the throttle completely until I'm exiting the corner ..or until the tires start to hook up) What should I do in this case. I *think* I might be getting too much body roll but I'm not sure. I need some help from the real pros.
Well, on the front end typically it is the same amount front and rear. So 2.5mm would be 2 1/2 shims behind the roll center balls where the hingepins go.
If he was running arm sweep it would have been noted as there are 2 different spots for the amount of shims on the front end.
The rear end just depends on the amount of Toe-in he is running. If he is running 2 deg of rear toe then he has two 1mm shims behind the roll blocks.
Jeff
Gotcha.So,if I have this right,he was widening the front but,not the rear.Sound about right?Just make sure they're both 190mm as noted.Is the rear of the car wider than the front normally?Not able to check right now.Thanks very much for the help.Starting to gain a basic understanding of this car.Mario.
Got a question for you guys. I'm running the same setup I've posted above and it is dialed for stock. Lots of steering and easy to drive consistantly. When I try to run 19t with this setup it seems that I have to throw the car around the corners (crank the wheel and dump the throttle completely until I'm exiting the corner ..or until the tires start to hook up) What should I do in this case. I *think* I might be getting too much body roll but I'm not sure. I need some help from the real pros.
Maybe I should put on the brackets
Perhaps you could reduce the droop in your setup. Which will reduce the body roll. Especially in the rear end...... it will help the car to rotate.
Perhaps you could reduce the droop in your setup. Which will reduce the body roll. Especially in the rear end...... it will help the car to rotate.
Jeff
That could be it....
I've always thought increasing rear droop would help rotation but now that I think about it, reducing rear droop just transfers weight to the front. What *might be* happening right now is that the rear is breaking traction and transfering too much weight to the front causing the front to break traction as well, causing a 4 wheel skid....
Or maybe it just won't transfer enough weight to the front, causing just the front tires to skid (1/2 the problem solved! LOL)
I finally understand why my car only handles this way with a 19t motor. With the way we run the 19t's around here we end up with basically no motor cogging, causing the car to carry too much speed into the corner. With either a stock or my test motor (Peak Vantage modified) the cogging effect slows down the car down to a speed in which the car can corner at where-as the 19t doesn't slow the car down enough and it carries too much speed into the corner. Instead of rolling onto the throttle through the apex like I should be, I'm waiting for the car to hook up again because its in the stages of a four wheel drift
on chis's setup from the nat. it show he was running 2.5 mm under the front block and 1.5 under the rear on the front arm what does this do for the car, and could you use anti dive with the 4 deg. castor blocks to get 3 deg. castor?
What that does is effectivly give the front suspension arms some "arm sweep". We also call this inboard toe out in some cases. It will generall let the car corner a touch flatter and give more mid corner steering. The suspension pins are flat for a reason.
When the suspension pins are flat it lets the suspension work more efficently, and the 3 degree of cater just gives it a touch more crisp turn in. If you ran 4 deg hubs with the antidive it would techincally give you close to the same amount of caster, but I would think it would yeild less overall steering since the suspension wont transfer weight aroudn the car as easy.
-Korey
__________________
Hot Bodies USA - HPI Racing - Atsushi Hara Racing Products - Team ORCA USA - Thunder Power R/C - Parma PSE - Ko Propo America - PPD Billet - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Remote Control Hobbies - Timezone Raceway - Seattle RC Racers
In the northeast the outdoor season starts soon....cool temps,low traction and rubber tires...fun?!
With a spool, cs 22 or cs 27 and air temps in the 60's and med to low traction parking lot...does any one have a suggestion on starting point for a general setup.
Gotcha.So,if I have this right,he was widening the front but,not the rear.Sound about right?Just make sure they're both 190mm as noted.Is the rear of the car wider than the front normally?Not able to check right now.Thanks very much for the help.Starting to gain a basic understanding of this car.Mario.
Built as per the manual, the rear is wider than the front. With the added shims to the front, the front and rear become the same or incredibly close to the same width. My car measures 190 mm front and rear how I have it shimmed. I do run narrow hexes front and rear, as well.
Built as per the manual, the rear is wider than the front. With the added shims to the front, the front and rear become the same or incredibly close to the same width. My car measures 190 mm front and rear how I have it shimmed. I do run narrow hexes front and rear, as well.
I'm very new to touring cars, as I have only raced 1/10 off road up to now. I fancied giving touring cars a go during the winter and got myself a cheap 2nd hand RDX.
I have rebuilt it as per the manual, so eveything is as standard. I intend to run it at a club that runs on polished wooden gym floors, so need a few pointers for set-ups. I have been told that drivers run schumacher yellow mini-pin tyres, but this is as far I have got on the set-up.
Has anyone had any experience of running on wooden floors or would have an idea where I should start in terms of setting the car up?
Hi Guys
Mark from Sth Australia
Im running an LRP 4.5 setup on my RDX and the car pulls to the right underpower, so much i have to set the trim 2 clicks to the left to compensate is this tweaked chassis, a weight balance issue i have gone back to pure stock setup as per manual
Thanks
I'm very new to touring cars, as I have only raced 1/10 off road up to now. I fancied giving touring cars a go during the winter and got myself a cheap 2nd hand RDX.
I have rebuilt it as per the manual, so eveything is as standard. I intend to run it at a club that runs on polished wooden gym floors, so need a few pointers for set-ups. I have been told that drivers run schumacher yellow mini-pin tyres, but this is as far I have got on the set-up.
Has anyone had any experience of running on wooden floors or would have an idea where I should start in terms of setting the car up?
Thanks!
I went to Penicuik, Scotland last year and the r/c club there ran on a polished wood gym floor. They used old gym climbing ropes as the barriers.
Yes, the mini-pins were absolutely the tire of choice. Was more like drift racing than anything else. Throttle control, as opposed to steering control, was key to doing fast laps. Everyone, including the current national champ, ran stock motors. I was looking for grip the whole time; so, I assume a thin flexible chassis is a plus.
You can probably find their website on the Internet and get more input directly from them.
Those locals were great! Afterwards, almost everyone headed to the pubs...
Bill
__________________
Who will be the next Matt Francis?
Hi Guys
Mark from Sth Australia
Im running an LRP 4.5 setup on my RDX and the car pulls to the right underpower, so much i have to set the trim 2 clicks to the left to compensate is this tweaked chassis, a weight balance issue i have gone back to pure stock setup as per manual
Thanks
Are your diffs freshly rebuilt?
__________________
Who will be the next Matt Francis?
Similar Threads