I hate electric cars. Yesterday I finished puting together the TRF .Run like a bat out of hell for about 1 minute and quit.
Up to the reciever is fine but is no running the motor WHY.
How do you charge lipos? at how many A ? do I need to balance them or discharge them ? Please do not sugest that I read instructions or you will make my disappoinment grow into a very upset state.
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=Monster Truck=====REVO "HOT ROD"====O.S 18TZ=
=Buggy===========D8 "Problem child"========P 7=
=Tourin===========TAMIYA "CHRISTINE"===??????= **ONION RACING TEAM "will make you cry" **((GPMRA General Director))
I hate electric cars. Yesterday I finished puting together the TRF .Run like a bat out of hell for about 1 minute and quit.
Up to the reciever is fine but is no running the motor WHY.
How do you charge lipos? at how many A ? do I need to balance them or discharge them ? Please do not sugest that I read instructions or you will make my disappoinment grow into a very upset state.
Hot Rod
I am fairly new to electrics but here is what i do.
Look at the label on the battery.
Should show voltage, and mah
So i set the Charger to the volts and max mah as on battery.
I set charge rate to 1A then let her rip.
It may not be totally right but it works for me.
Oh yeah prior to charging i hook on a blinky balancer (because that is what i have).
Like i said i am no expert but that is what i do and seem to work fine.
Luv Ray
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XRAY XB8EC Modified & XT8 09, Associated RC18(Holy Crap Did You See That Thing Go)T
I hate electric cars. Yesterday I finished puting together the TRF .Run like a bat out of hell for about 1 minute and quit.
Up to the reciever is fine but is no running the motor WHY.
How do you charge lipos? at how many A ? do I need to balance them or discharge them ? Please do not sugest that I read instructions or you will make my disappoinment grow into a very upset state.
With Lipo's, to determine the maximum Amps to charge them use this formula.
If it's a 3200mah pack you can charge it at 3.2 amps.
If it's a 4600, charge at 4.6 amps.
This is called 1C, whatever that means. Never go over 1C.
I don't go over 3 amps for safety's sake with my 6000's, but that's just my opinion.
You don't need to discharge a Lipo but you should balance charge them once and awhile. You'll need something like the Blinky that Ray was talking about. You just plug it into the smaller wire coming out of the pack. If yu dont balance charge them this weekend don't worry about it.
Finally don't take any chances with a Lipo. They will catch fire or explode if mistreated. Charge them in a fireproof container of some kind. You can buy a Lipo sack which is what you need to be able to charge your batteries at any big races or at our track I believe. But if you don't have one for now just throw it in a canvas bag or a metal pail, ammunition box, etc.............
As for why it quit I don't know Rod. Broken wire????? What kind of speed control do you have?
p.s.: Read the instructions!!!
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---===Grande Prairie Model Racer's Association===---
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well what kind of batteries are you running rod? It is pretty much crucial to be balancing them every time you charge them up. When it comes to discharging as long as you run them and charge them up atleast once or twice every thirty days you should be fine. If you cannot run them say your car is brocken or something your charger probably has a dischrge feature. But the thing is with this is that you need to figure out if you want to store them for the winter or are you going to run them. If you aren't going to use them say for a few months, when you go to charge them up you should charge them to about 60% instead of fully charged this just keeps them more stable when you store them. AS long as you are cycling the batteries once every 30 days you shouldnt have any problems. If you do not cycle that much people have said for the batteries to crystalize and when you go to charge them or discharge them they puff which makes them useless. haha idk if this will help but i thought i would let you know somethings weve found out about this on are way through this hobby.
I hate electric cars. Yesterday I finished puting together the TRF .Run like a bat out of hell for about 1 minute and quit.
Up to the reciever is fine but is no running the motor WHY.
How do you charge lipos? at how many A ? do I need to balance them or discharge them ? Please do not sugest that I read instructions or you will make my disappoinment grow into a very upset state.
Rod you also need to be using a lipo specific charger if you are not already. If the one you have doesn't have the balance leads or feature you can use a "blinky balancer" to balence the cells. Pretty sure you have 7.4v lipos so these are 2 cell. 11.1v would be 3 cell. charge them at a rate of 1c as suggested before ie if your lipo is 4000mah you can charge at a rate of up to 4 amps.
On another note there are adapters that can be added to a regular nimh charger that can convert it to a lipo balancing charger. I beleive Losi markets one.
An important thing to remember is to not to over discharge your lipo's. They can become unstable and puff. Safest way to avoid this would be to run an esc with lipo cutoff so it doesn't discharge to low. If your esc doesn't have this feature novak makes a smartstop lipo cutoff which can be added to almost all esc's and another option is an audible alarm which plugs into the balance leads of the battery. You can also get a visual monitor that plugs into the battery balance leads as well. Important thing to remember is to NEVER discharge to lower than 3.0 volts per cell, 6.0 volts on a 2 cell system. That being said I always run my lipo cutoffs at 3.5v per cell to be extra safe. you will still get lots of run time and be safe.
Well is not looking good for my speed control ,if anyone have a brush speed control bring it tomorrow I may need one.
__________________
=Monster Truck=====REVO "HOT ROD"====O.S 18TZ=
=Buggy===========D8 "Problem child"========P 7=
=Tourin===========TAMIYA "CHRISTINE"===??????= **ONION RACING TEAM "will make you cry" **((GPMRA General Director))
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=Monster Truck=====REVO "HOT ROD"====O.S 18TZ=
=Buggy===========D8 "Problem child"========P 7=
=Tourin===========TAMIYA "CHRISTINE"===??????= **ONION RACING TEAM "will make you cry" **((GPMRA General Director))
Rod, when you operate the throttle on your remote, does the ESC indicate that it's receiving signal and trying to go forward or reverse? Most ESC's have little LED lights to indicate that it's receiving a signal to do something. If this is the case, then you know it's not a receiver issue, and the ESC is powered up and receiving forward/reverse signals. If that's happening but the motor isn't turning, try disconnecting the motor from the ESC and briefly power the motor directly from a battery. If the motor spins then your problem is definitely with the ESC. Two possible issues. Either the ESC is smoked, or it has lost it's setup (where you put the ESC into program mode and then you hold your throttle full open, full reverse, and at neutral so the ESC can set its self up to your radio system).
The other issue I've seen that can cause this is when your brushed motor develops a dead spot on the commutator. If you apply a voltage to the motor and spin it a little by hand, all of a sudden it'll take off and run. It might work for a while, but the next time the motor stops at that dead spot, it'll need another push. If your motor starts doing this, you need to turn the comm and possibly throw in some new brushes. In a pinch, I've taken the armature from the motor, put the shaft in a drill and spun it while sanding the commutator as evenly as possible with 600 grit sand paper until I'm happy with it. When done with the sandpaper you should clean the comm with a toothbrush and alcohol to make sure it's clean.
My two cents!
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Gregg "MadHacker" Messenger
Public Relations Director - GPMRA
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