The official rules will be released soon, but me and Ray were going over the preliminaries today and it looks like you will have 2 motor choices. In super stock you can use a 19 turn brushed or a 13.5 turn brushless, and in GT class you have only one choice: The Tamiya silver can 540J motor ($25-30). So, you will have to get a new motor, although you could probably run the stock 15t in with the super stocks, since there is no way it will be faster than a good 13.5/19t motor anyway. The GT class would be the best class for you to run in though, to start off with, because it will the easiest to drive, easiest on parts and easiest on tires. Once your ready to kick up the speed you can move up to the 13.5/19t class.
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-Brad Comis
---Can West R/C---Xray---
http://bradcomis.blogspot.com/
Brad what are the plow disks for ,and how many do we need?
I'll be in Edmonton but I don't know if I can attend the race.I'll take my stuff anyways.
I'll need to practice before that , since I never drove a touring car for more than 5 minutes.I think I'll run my 27 t at the first race in town to see how it drives ,I know I'll be last anyways.
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=Monster Truck=====REVO "HOT ROD"====O.S 18TZ=
=Buggy===========D8 "Problem child"========P 7=
=Tourin===========TAMIYA "CHRISTINE"===??????= **ONION RACING TEAM "will make you cry" **((GPMRA General Director))
Here are a few photos showing what the disks do. You just place them at corner apex to keep people from cutting the corner. If you go to tight your car gets airborn. The best part is that they aren't a solid wall for your car to smash into and break. I'm sure there are other types than plow disks, but I'm not sure where to get them, might have to do a bit of searching.
Ya we used disc's for the inside of the corners in Kelowna back in the mid 80's.I have fond memories of my little RC12 hitting a concrete wall about a foot up off the track more than once. They did work very well.I do not have any old ones around here but I am sure that I could find several from some neighbors.
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RC10T4 FT / MM /Novak 13.5
RC18T
AX10 SWX / Tekin / Some DNA
Airtronics M11 2.4
Sounds good Dennis. I've got a line on some too from my buddy in Quesnel, they are from their old indoor track and aren't being used anymore, so all we need to do is pay the shipping. I'll run it by "the board" and see if they will go for it. I'm not to sure how many we'll need, so, Dennis, whatever you can find might end up being enough. I'm guessing probably 10 would be a good start for sure.
__________________
-Brad Comis
---Can West R/C---Xray---
http://bradcomis.blogspot.com/
The official rules will be released soon, but me and Ray were going over the preliminaries today and it looks like you will have 2 motor choices. In super stock you can use a 19 turn brushed or a 13.5 turn brushless, and in GT class you have only one choice: The Tamiya silver can 540J motor ($25-30). So, you will have to get a new motor, although you could probably run the stock 15t in with the super stocks, since there is no way it will be faster than a good 13.5/19t motor anyway. The GT class would be the best class for you to run in though, to start off with, because it will the easiest to drive, easiest on parts and easiest on tires. Once your ready to kick up the speed you can move up to the 13.5/19t class.
K cool, I just wanted to be sure, I'm pretty sure in the near future I'm gonna go bl
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Ryan Green
T-Maxx 2.5
Sprint 2 Sport
http://www.youtube.com/user/Trikenut012
Dennis and Brad that would be great if you could come up with them. As few of us were talking about them tonight again and were going to see if we could even get some.
So I am guessing that everyone would be ok with having mostly no inside track (Just to separate areas that will get high speed) and the rest of the track just lines like the edmonton track and the pics you posted brad.
I would like everyone to comment too as I am trying to get some different opinions.
Chris- If we go with one big track with nice wide lanes then having no boards inside would probably be fine, but if the lanes are tighter we'll need something to stop cars from flying into oncoming traffic in a crash. For the separator boards we could just use 2x4's laid down with the ends cut at an angle and attach velcro to the bottom of them. That way they are easy to make, easy to re-arrange, and they'll have some weight behind them so they won't move when cars hit them. Cutting a 2x4" at 45º with a cop saw would be a lot easier than trying to make plugs for the eavestroughing pipes.
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-Brad Comis
---Can West R/C---Xray---
http://bradcomis.blogspot.com/
I was thinking after the last post and I think you are right we will need something between the lanes and there was talk also that someone had found plastic down pipes that were 2 1/2 square. With those stuck to the carpet I dont think they will go anywhere and they will divide the lanes up good. I was just thinking using actual 2X4's I thought they would be too solid when the cars hit them with the plastic it will at least give some.
Also the other night we got all of the carpet we have right now layed out and it is going to be a large track inside. Looks like we will have 42 X 60. The rest of the carpet for the onroad should be in by the 30th they are telling me.
All I know is my Cyclone really doesn't like 2 x 4's! Tried it last year, not good.
Apparently Calgary uses square rain gutter material with velcro on the bottom. They told me it sticks to the carpet very well and still has enough give to protect the cars.
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---===Grande Prairie Model Racer's Association===---
----==========Xray XT8==========----
----==========Hotbodies Cyclone==========----
They did work very well.I do not have any old ones around here but I am sure that I could find several from some neighbors.
K cool, I just wanted to be sure, I'm pretty sure in the near future I'm gonna go bl
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